2024.05.31 20:27 BeMillzRecording Can someone please tell me what type of breaker will fit in my box. I need a Tandem 20 x 20 breaker
submitted by BeMillzRecording to AskElectricians [link] [comments]
2024.05.30 23:00 broadway_joee Electrical Plan Feedback
Hello everyone! This is my first post here. I’m almost finished with the framing in my ‘06 Saf-T-Liner and it’s time to install the electrical system. I’ve done some research and put together a list of components and some diagrams to make sure I understand how they all work together. submitted by broadway_joee to skoolies [link] [comments] I’m looking for some feedback on my plan. I want to be able to run on 50A shore power, an onboard generator, or an inverter from a 300Ah battery bank. I want to use a DC-DC charger to charge the batteries off the alternator as I’m going down the road, and a shore charger to charge them on shore or generator power. I want to make switching between power sources as seamless as possible, and there are a couple key features of my plan that I want to sanity check here. The first feature ensures the batteries aren’t charging themselves. I get 2 hot lines from both shore power and generator power, but only one from the inverter. So, if I use a breaker panel with 2 50A mains, I can wire my shore charger to a breaker on the side without the inverter and guarantee that I never charge my batteries off the inverter. This of course means everything else in that half of the box is cold too, but I can plan around that. My first question is on AC switching. I want to use 2 cam switches in the following configuration: S1: SHORE - MAIN OFF - RESERVE S2: GENERATOR - RESERVE OFF - INVERTER I’m aware of automatic transfer switches, but I prefer manual switching here. I have the switch wiring solved in the second and third pictures, but my question is whether I should run all neutrals to a bus bar as shown in the second pic, or switch them as shown in the third. The cost difference between these options is minimal, I’m just not sure which is right. The rest of my questions are on the DC side. I’m pretty comfortable with the AC stuff as I have some residential experience, but the DC stuff is new to me. Can both chargers run at the same time? This would be rare, but in the case that I’m driving with the generator on it could happen. If they shouldn’t both charge at the same time, what should I use to stop this? A shunt? Or is there a more elegant solution? Where do people install their battery main off switches? Between the battery and fuse box? Battery and inverter? Both? Do I need a converter between the batteries and fuse box? They seem common in those RV AC/DC distribution panels, but I can’t understand why I’d need one to run 12V appliances off a 12V battery bank. What else am I missing on the DC side? Also looking for battery recommendations! Thanks! Parts: Shore Charger - Victron Blue Smart IP22 12/30 Single Output https://www.victronenergy.com/chargers/blue-smart-ip22-charger DC-DC Charger - Victron Orion-Tr Smart Non-Isolated https://www.victronenergy.com/dc-dc-converters/orion-tr-smart-non-isolated Inverter - Samlex NTX-3000-12 https://samlexamerica.com/products/3000-watt-pure-sine-wave-inverter-ntx-3000-12/ Cam Switches: 2 Pole - https://baomain.com/products/szw26-125-d202-2 3 Pole - https://baomain.com/products/lw28-125-3 |
2024.05.30 20:44 roundicer Hardwire Dashcam for it's features
Hi everyone. submitted by roundicer to skoda [link] [comments] I posted this exact same text on BRISKODA, but 10+ days no one answers, so i'm trying my luck here. Since I never did anything similar in practice, and this Karoq is my first personal car, I'd say I'm a beginner in car electronics, and I would appreciate any advice from experienced members on how to hardwire the dash cam to the fuse box. I bought the 70mai Dash Cam Omni 360° dash cam. It has a lot of various features (24H Smart Surveillance, AI Motion/Collision Detection, Built-in GPS, ADAS, Route Tracking) but they are working ONLY if you connect the cam with a hardwire kit to the fuse box (It also has the option of 4G hardwiring, which enables you to track the vehicle via 4G SIM, but i think that's a overkill for me ). The manufacturer has some YouTube tutorial on how to connect it, but I read in the comments section that that's the wrong way to do it (since the instructor is directly connecting the hardwire to the car fuses without any piggy back adapters). I found this video on YouTube useful for overall understanding of the hardwiring process. I plan to use this wiring path 1 and path 2 to run the wire from the cam to fuse. So, here's the Karoq manufacturer fuse box schematics and here is the photo of my own fuse box (sorry if its a bit blurry) I guess I could test the fuses with a current tester or multimeter device, but I'm curious to listen to your advice which fuses to pick from the picture? Again, for the Dash cam parking module and other stuff to work, I need to have one BAT live connection, one ACC accessory power connection. The only think I'm sure of is the Ground connection Thank you all! fuse box |
2024.05.30 16:57 HighAsAGiraffesPussy (2008 Ford F150 )Blinkers and 4 way flashers stopped working
2024.05.29 08:17 Infamous-Ad2683 help
2024.05.29 04:21 Nardopr 2019 TLX fuse blowing
2024.05.28 23:31 21keeds IGN CONT&ECCS Fuse Keeps blowing
Looking for some advice on where to start and if anyone has had this similar problem. 2004 g35 coupe VQ35DE 144k miles From the diagrams I’ve been looking into fuse #77 runs through everything in the picture I’ve attached. I was getting codes for my cam position sensors so I’ve gone through those and replaced the connectors as well as the sensors (connectors were zip tied on). After replacing those I now have a long crank where it cranks for a good 3-5 seconds before turning over once it’s turned over it runs and drives as it should even does burnouts and skids no problem but once that fuse pops the whole car dies. Replace the fuse, car starts again no problem. I’ve checked the charcoal canister (Evap can valve) and the plugs that run through it and those seem to be okay most are saying I have a rubbed wire somewhere so I’ve gone through my kick panels, under the battery tray, through all of my looms in the engine bay, ecu behind the glove box looks untouched everything seems to be intact wiring wise. Recently took it to a drift event and after blowing that fuse again, codes for the cam sensors have come back and now I also have new codes for the VVTI solenoids. I’m concerned that it may not be a timing issue at all and more likely a wiring issue of some sort that I’m not seeing. I just don’t want to spend the money on sensors and solenoids just for it to keep popping that fuse and I’m back to square 1 lol. Another thing I should note is it seems to only blow that fuse when I’m driving and up to temp. If I’m idling or driving before I get up to temp it won’t pop. My buddy is concerned that maybe something with the NATS/ Antitheft system has something to do with it and if so maybe have someone disable it through the ECU and if it’s not NATS what else could it be that I could have disabled or what else in general should I be looking for? I’ve done everything to the best of my ability to get this figured out and I’m tired of a single fuse holding me back. Any and all advice would be appreciated! submitted by 21keeds to G35 [link] [comments] |
2024.05.28 21:47 Rob_Sothoth Impossible Landscapes - Session 1 "The Apartment"
2024.05.28 20:11 Ok-Hat-9786 I can happily retire my Craigslist searches: got free Bezzera Strega :-) (Story)
Backstory: last week saw a CL post about 16 minutes after it was live. Gentleman was *giving away* his 12 year old Bezzera Strega lever machine which he had bought new. There was a pic and it looked good to me. He reported that it needed a new heating element and he tried to replace but gave up, and was going to buy a new machine for the family. Everything else on it was supposed to work fine. I said I'd take it! Drove the 50 minutes and picked it up. Needed some basic cleaning which I did. It came with a small box of new parts and two portafilters. Looks like it was purchased in 2012 from 1st Line. submitted by Ok-Hat-9786 to espresso [link] [comments] So I did some research on the Strega and looked at the diagrams. Before I purchased the new heating element (only $55), I saw that at the right side of the copper boiler was the overheating fuse with reset button. Surely it won't be this easy? Removed the case, looked at insides, did a little cleanup, took a breath and proceeded to push the reset button -- it clicked! Meaning fuse was tripped when machine may have been left on for too long. So I filled the reservoir, made sure everything was connected, and turned on the machine. Voila! Both lights lit, and I could hear the heating element starting to work. In about 7 minutes the pressure gauge started to rise! Vibration pump turned on and added some new water in boiler. Needless to say that was a great moment LOL. Just pulled my very first shot on the Strega -- 18g in precision basket that I borrowed from my Ascaso Steel Uno. Worked like a charm for first pull, maybe a little fast flow. Just need to grind a little finer. Oh, and the steam power on the Strega is powerful -- has original two hole tip and it froths milk so fast I'm going to need to practice a lot, but it blows my Ascaso off the table. Anyway, sometimes good things do come true! Keep the faith fellow espresso enthusiasts. https://preview.redd.it/3vk7amx0j73d1.jpg?width=2672&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=1f324c7136e0b2d9d9611d6131d67fb1602371d2 |
2024.05.28 06:04 moorlita_artist fuse diagram for BMW e61 (2006 530xi USA)
2024.05.28 06:00 moorlita_artist fuse diagram for BMW e61 (2006 530xi USA)
2024.05.28 05:58 fganniversaries Fighting Game Anniversaries: Week 22 (May 27 - June 2)
2024.05.28 05:57 fganniversaries Fighting Game Anniversaries: Week 22 (May 27 - June 2)
2024.05.28 05:57 Rough-Progress-17 How do I disconnect my fuse box?
submitted by Rough-Progress-17 to CherokeeXJ [link] [comments] |
2024.05.28 05:56 fganniversaries Fighting Game Anniversaries: Week 22 (May 27 - June 2)
2024.05.28 04:57 Nosforatu99 1985 Trans Am Electrical Question
2024.05.27 23:31 Big_Variation_960 1987 mariner 75hp 3cyl no spark?
2024.05.27 17:47 ByKillerMoon Fuse box diagram
2024.05.26 03:51 Large_Mix_9456 Green key symbol
2024.05.26 03:49 Large_Mix_9456 Green key symbol
2024.05.26 02:06 dyukihiro001 Connecting an ACC (accessory wire) to the fuse box
Hello, submitted by dyukihiro001 to canam_ryker [link] [comments] I have a device that I have connected to the positive/negative terminals of the battery. I need to connect the yellow ACC (accessory wire) to the fuse box so that the device turns on with the ignition on and turns off when the ignition is off. I looked at a 2022 Ryker fuse box diagram and it shows F3 as the USB/ACC. The photo below shows the white encased fuse as E2, E3, F2, and F3 if I'm reading it right. When I remove the fuse, there's only one opening for the ACC wire. Is that the right slot or does the ACC wire from the device need to go into another fuse location? https://imgur.com/gallery/ryker-fuse-box-qS770bo |
2024.05.25 12:37 lunatium Whats with the electronics?
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