Car hauler invoice

I'm shopping for a used V60 or V90 to replace my decrepit 2002 Taurus SEL kayak hauler. Probably an XC, although I'm not absolutely devoted to AWD. Nice to have, and 2WD examples seem less common anyway, so XC would be most likely to be available.
Are Volvos in the 50,000-100,000 mile range a good bet, or is a lot of maintenance/failure likely there? Any specific systems to be looking at?
I tend to drive cars into the ground, so I'm looking at ten years or more of ownership. Particularly, I'm wondering if the turbo engines hold up...

My girlfriend (female, 24) and I (male, 24) both graduated in the same field and have started a private limited company together. We invoice around €18,000 to €19,000 per month combined. We have minimal expenses because we don't own a car and commute to work by bicycle, earning a nice cycling allowance. Our only monthly costs are our accountant and our salaries (€1,800 net). Our business is growing by at least €10,000 per month after accounting for all average costs.
We live rent-free in an apartment for the next three years, which led us to consider buying a studio to rent out for €800 per month (which covers approximately 45% of the monthly mortgage). Here's a brief summary of how we managed to buy the studio: both of us worked various jobs and summers during our student years, building a small savings fund. I was also reselling some stuff and brought my girlfriend into it, we managed to earn a couple thousands from it. We also received financial support from our parents (€10,000-€20,000).
Our loan (around €200,000) is set to be paid off in 11 years, but we plan to pay it off within three years using dividend payouts. We live very frugally, easily managing with our meal vouchers of €160 per person per month. This allows us to save between €500-€1,000 each month and contribute to private pension savings, in addition to our VAPZ.
In about four years, we aim to buy our permanent home, which will also include a significant portion of our business (a practice space). So we can buy a portion on the house through the business. If we have our own space to work, we would invoice arround 20%-25% more.
Now that our company is starting to accumulate funds, we are wondering what the best investment options are for this money. Should we invest in stocks, bonds, real estate, or something else?
Considering that we might want to buy our home and adjoining business space within four years, would it be wise to use our dividends to pay off the studio? I calculated that this would save us approximately €25,000 in interest. However, this would leave us with less money to buy our main home, as it would be tied up in the studio. Is it still sensible to buy a more expensive home with less cash on hand?
Where else can we invest our personal savings?
Any other tips?
Thank you!

Eastlink (Vic road provider, private company) require me to provide my date of birth and drivers licence number. I don't understand why they need this information. If there's a privacy breach (lets face it, seems quite likely) hackers would have that, plus my address and car rego.
Of course, Eastlink need my car rego and a way to invoice me. Let's say for the sake of argument they need my real name also. Less clear why they need to keep my address on file in the internet era. But why oh why do they need my drivers licence and DoB? Is it just me that is annoyed at handing out this information to orgs so that they can (potentially) unwittingly leak it to script kiddies?

How much room is there to actually negotiate? What’s the price difference between dealer invoice price and msrp? I feel like the car market in general has been cooling down and most things online were from Covid years where there was a shortage of everything. Given the negotiation results on a recent car purchase I’m feeling confident I could negotiate 5,000 off a new 911. At the same time though it’s a Porsche 911 so maybe not? I’m sure they’re still willing to negotiate but I just don’t want to start too low to throw them off and come off as completely clueless regarding the market which might hinder further negotiations, but also not too high to the point that I’m not really getting a good deal. Any input?

My mom lives in a residential neighborhood, but some junk haulers moved into an empty lot next door. This lot is literally in between my mom's house and another house. It's an empty residential lot. My mom lives in an unincorporated area of a major county. It's not remote or anything, it's actually a pretty nice area very close to some famous landmarks you've probably heard of. But for whatever reason, in the 90s, some fucking geniuses in the county decided to change the zoning laws here, so these junk haulers area technically able to operate out of here.
They're fucking assholes. They start their loud trucks with the "BEEP BEEP BEEP" Usually at 6:30 am, but sometimes as early as 4:30 am. They'll operate as late as midnight sometimes. They even sometimes work on weekends. What they also like to do on weekends is have parties on the property. I guess the guys who work there like to hang out and loudly drink and laugh long into the night. They're absolutely inconsiderate assholes.
When they first moved in, I dunno if it was quite a year ago now, my mom was battling with them, talking to them about the noise, calling the sheriff etc. Of course, this did nothing, the sheriff doesn't care and didn't do anything, and the neighbor, the guy on the other side of the junk haulers lot, go in trouble one of the times my mom called the sheriff. Guess what he got in trouble for... Having too much junk on his property!
Not only that, but she's convinced that in retaliation, the guys started planting nails under my mom's tires. Both my mom and my sister's boyfriend ending up getting nails in their tires (they drive the exact same type of car, coincidentally). My mom says that she saw someone one night sneaking around her car in the dark, and she checked it out the next morning and found nails (this was after she had to have a tire replaced). And now has to check her car in the morning for sabotage before driving to work.
Their trucks are massive, and apparently the guys stand on the trucks and look into my mom's back yard and smile and wave at my mom and sister while they're back there, or when they're walking from the house to the garage to do laundry, etc. My mom and sister are the only two people who live there and it makes them really uncomfortable.
So, what do we do? How do we make them stop? How do we get them to move out?
Bonus points if you can think of some way to get even with the landlord who rented this residential lot to junk haulers! He had been renting it to a company who parked unused vehicles there for years. That was fine. But I guess he decided to be a greedy asshole and destroy a neighborhood by getting some new tenants.

Hi everyone! I am a 20-year-old female looking to buy myself a car that is going to be reliable. The last second-hand car I purchases ended up being a bit of a lemon, and I am trying not to repeat this. As I am a uni student, I cannot afford a new car, or finance options for anything over my price range (approx. 6-7k aud). I live in Bathurst nsw, which does have quite a few hills, but I primarily drive around town. A few times a year I may drive up to my mum or dads, which are both around 5 hours, but not to many hills on the way. I am looking at two different cars from second hand car places and would love some advice from people who know a lot more than me.
The first option is a 2008 Nissan micra k12, 5d hatchback 4sp automatic with 120,570 km. this car came with full logbooks, which have been filled out to 100000km, with invoices available for any work done after that. This car was priced for 7000, and I managed to get it down to 6000 if I did end up purchasing. I honestly really liked this car, and the interior felt nice and had a updated stereo added. There was one small mark on the door but was not very noticeable at all and was just superficial damage. I have test drove the micra and did enjoy how it felt a lot. The only issue was slightly squeaky breaks, but the dealer is going to fix these before we look at it again on Tuesday. I am bringing my friends grandad who is a ex-mechanic along so he will obviously have a much better idea, but still though it would be worth getting a many opinions as possible
The second option is a 2004 holden cruze yg awd suv with 159,300 km on the clock. I am going to test drive this tomorrow and will update this post when I have done this. This car also comes with logbooks, and I will assess these tomorrow. This option is slightly more affordable at 5000, and I would aim to get it for around 4500. I will update with any extra details, but overall, the car looks nicely presented in the photos. Overall, I do prefer the look of the micra, but that is not as important as the quality of the vehicle.
Thankyou again for reading this excessively long post. Even just past experience with either of the car models would be amazing. 

Hi everyone! I am a 20-year-old female looking to buy myself a car that is going to be reliable. The last second-hand car I purchases ended up being a bit of a lemon, and I am trying not to repeat this. As I am a uni student, I cannot afford a new car, or finance options for anything over my price range (approx. 6-7k aud). I live in Bathurst nsw, which does have quite a few hills, but I primarily drive around town. A few times a year I may drive up to my mum or dads, which are both around 5 hours, but not to many hills on the way. I am looking at two different cars from second hand car places and would love some advice from people who know a lot more than me.
The first option is a 2008 Nissan micra k12, 5d hatchback 4sp automatic with 120,570 km. this car came with full logbooks, which have been filled out to 100000km, with invoices available for any work done after that. This car was priced for 7000, and I managed to get it down to 6000 if I did end up purchasing. I honestly really liked this car, and the interior felt nice and had a updated stereo added. There was one small mark on the door but was not very noticeable at all and was just superficial damage. I have test drove the micra and did enjoy how it felt a lot. The only issue was slightly squeaky breaks, but the dealer is going to fix these before we look at it again on Tuesday. I am bringing my friends grandad who is a ex-mechanic along so he will obviously have a much better idea, but still though it would be worth getting a many opinions as possible
The second option is an automatic 2004 holden cruze yg awd suv with 159,300 km on the clock. I am going to test drive this tomorrow and will update this post when I have done this. This car also comes with logbooks, and I will assess these tomorrow. This option is slightly more affordable at 5000, and I would aim to get it for around 4500. I will update with any extra details, but overall, the car looks nicely presented in the photos. Overall, I do prefer the look of the micra, but that is not as important as the quality of the vehicle.
Thankyou again for reading this excessively long post. Even just past experience with either of the car models would be amazing. 

Hi everyone! I am a 20-year-old female looking to buy myself a car that is going to be reliable. The last second-hand car I purchases ended up being a bit of a lemon, and I am trying not to repeat this. As I am a uni student, I cannot afford a new car, or finance options for anything over my price range (approx. 6-7k aud). I live in Bathurst nsw, which does have quite a few hills, but I primarily drive around town. A few times a year I may drive up to my mum or dads, which are both around 5 hours, but not to many hills on the way. I am looking at two different cars from second hand car places and would love some advice from people who know a lot more than me.
The first option is a 2008 Nissan micra k12, 5d hatchback 4sp automatic with 120,570 km. this car came with full logbooks, which have been filled out to 100000km, with invoices available for any work done after that. This car was priced for 7000, and I managed to get it down to 6000 if I did end up purchasing. I honestly really liked this car, and the interior felt nice and had a updated stereo added. There was one small mark on the door but was not very noticeable at all and was just superficial damage. I have test drove the micra and did enjoy how it felt a lot. The only issue was slightly squeaky breaks, but the dealer is going to fix these before we look at it again on Tuesday. I am bringing my friends grandad who is a ex-mechanic along so he will obviously have a much better idea, but still though it would be worth getting a many opinions as possible
The second option is an automatic 2004 holden cruze yg awd suv with 159,300 km on the clock. I am going to test drive this tomorrow and will update this post when I have done this. This car also comes with logbooks, and I will assess these tomorrow. This option is slightly more affordable at 5000, and I would aim to get it for around 4500. I will update with any extra details, but overall, the car looks nicely presented in the photos. Overall, I do prefer the look of the micra, but that is not as important as the quality of the vehicle.
Thankyou again for reading this excessively long post. Even just past experience with either of the car models would be amazing.

Recently, my 2000 Honda Accord LX 2.3 Sedan was repaired, and today it overheated. I repaired it because it had a leaking oil pan, which the repair shop fixed. However, they also worked on the coolant system, as they stated a heater hose was leaking and that they installed a new hose and added anti-freeze into the coolant. When I got the car back, I checked the coolant level and it was over the maximum (Before I got it, the coolant level was normal). When the car overheated, the coolant level was the same (over the maximum). I went online and found out that coolant is a mixture of anti-freeze and water, not just anti-freeze, which is what my mechanic stated that he put in on the invoice. Is coolant the issue? Is the heating hose the issue? What should I tell my new mechanic?

Hello, hoping for some advice to make sure I’m doing this right and if you’d do it any different in case the issue were to go to small claims court. Sorry long post (posted in legaladviceuk also)
Background: I bought a car mid/late April, 2 weeks in on a v hot day the turbo didn’t boost, gave it a week or 2 to be sure it wasn’t a one off then rang the dealer. It also had an issue with the petrol pump clicking so I told him and he asked to bring it to them in a week. Unfortunately my partners car broke meaning I couldn’t bring it to the following week. By this point, we were noticing it happening at least 50% of the time. No warning lights came on the dash.
Dealer took it for a day, has said he will get the part for the petrol pump bit but they couldn’t replicate the turbo issue. Said they’d checked the computer and no errors but I don’t know how true this is as I know the software is v expensive (small dealer). Very insistent it hadn’t been mapped. This was 2 days ago and since then I have only had the turbo work as expected once as I’ve been making the effort to try so it’s defo broken. Just fyi, it’s a Merc AMG ie a performance car so it’s VERY noticeable. Granted it’s 9 year old and a good amount of miles but I would absolutely expect the turbo to function.
So really it’s a what next as I don’t want to get past the warranty being fobbed off.
What I plan to do is:

• Make a note of when it started, days I remember it happening in the past and going forward, when it’s not done it and what I was doing ie 30-50, 50-70 etc.
  
• my friends a mechanic with his own business, he is going to drive it for me on Monday to make sure it’s not working and see if he can see a pattern. I don’t expect him to take the time to disanose currently.
  
• contact the dealer on Tuesday (I’m thinking by text initially to get this in writing) to say the mechanic says XYZ and that he is willing to drive the car with them to show them
  

Hoping this kicks them into gear but if they don’t, what do I do from here? Do I say I’ll fix it myself then send them the invoice? There is a merc specialist mechanic near me, do I get him to diagnose it to have more evidence? If they refuse do I have a case at the small claims court?
It’s all a bit upsetting as I saved up for the car and spent most of my savings, and it’s a relatively expensive thing to replace if the whole thing has to be. Could well be something smaller within the turbo but we don’t know that without them trying.
Any advice would be brilliant thank you

Hello, hoping for some advice to make sure I’m doing this right and if you’d do it any different in case the issue were to go to small claims court. Sorry long post.
Edit: Northern Ireland
Background: I bought a car mid/late April, 2 weeks in on a v hot day the turbo didn’t boost, gave it a week or 2 to be sure it wasn’t a one off then rang the dealer. It also had an issue with the petrol pump clicking so I told him and he asked to bring it to them in a week. Unfortunately my partners car broke meaning I couldn’t bring it to the following week. By this point, we were noticing it happening at least 50% of the time. No warning lights came on the dash.
Dealer took it for a day, has said he will get the part for the petrol pump bit but they couldn’t replicate the turbo issue. Said they’d checked the computer and no errors but I don’t know how true this is as I know the software is v expensive (small dealer). This was 2 days ago and since then I have only had the turbo work as expected once as I’ve been making the effort to try so it’s defo broken. Just fyi, it’s a Merc AMG ie a performance car so it’s VERY noticeable. Granted it’s 9 year old and a good amount of miles but I would absolutely expect the turbo to function.
So really it’s a what next as I don’t want to get past the warranty being fobbed off.
What I plan to do is:

• Make a note of when it started, days I remember it happening in the past and going forward, when it’s not done it and what I was doing ie 30-50, 50-70 etc.
  
• my friends a mechanic with his own business, he is going to drive it for me on Monday to make sure it’s not working and see if he can see a pattern. I don’t expect him to take the time to disanose currently.
  
• contact the dealer on Tuesday (I’m thinking by text initially to get this in writing) to say the mechanic says XYZ and that he is willing to drive the car with them to show them
  

Hoping this kicks them into gear but if they don’t, what do I do from here? Do I say I’ll fix it myself then send them the invoice? There is a merc specialist mechanic near me, do I get him to diagnose it to have more evidence? If they refuse do I have a case at the small claims court?
It’s all a bit upsetting as I saved up for the car and spent most of my savings, and it’s a relatively expensive thing to replace if the whole thing has to be. Could well be something smaller within the turbo but we don’t know that without them trying.
Any advice would be brilliant thank you

Let me start off by saying this is my first experience of transporting a car. It took me a long time to find somebody who is reliable scrolling through reviews. I finally found focus car transporters on Reddit and was so glad I did. There’s good things to be said about the company, but the main thing that really drove this five star review was Michael he runs his company so smoothly and is focused on customer experience. I’m gonna go through the pros and cons that really made this experience great. The first thing to be said is price transparency I shipped a EV from Virginia to Texas around the end of May. The total cost came out to roughly $1500 the first 35% was due when my car was picked up and then the remainder was paid to the transporters when I received the car in Texas, which I use Zelle for.
I would like to remind everybody to take down any toll tags or toll passes prior to transport and to set an AirTag in the car as it works really well with pinpointing real time locations!
Pros: -Fast and easy communication -Accurate pick up and drop off times and dates!! -Fast shipment -Free car wash after receiving the car in destination location (Up to $30 send receipt for payment) -Paid for my Uber from the airport to receiving location -Held the car for me when my flight was canceled -Insured safety of me and my car during pick up and drop off -Very accommodating -Transport invoice provided
Cons: -Pricey for some -The direct carrier information is not given to the customer while this did not bother me because the communication with michael was fast and consistent. I know that this may be a bigger con for some. (You may have access to this information upon request. I’m not sure, but it never hurts to ask.)
https://cartransporters.com/contact-us/

looking at an older 2006 hybrid with 200k km (about 124k miles) on fb marketplace. Seller is asking $9000 cad ($6600 usd). car looks to be in very good condition online. Seller also has a Limited hybrid same year and mileage.
Can a car this age and km still be a reliable family hauler for long vacation trips? are 2006 safety standards very outdated (looking for good crash protection for the kids).
Real reason i'm interested in car with this kind of mileage is relief at the gas pump. Can the 2006 battery still perform and get good fuel economy. I know that full replacement of the battery at the dealership is in the thousands of $s but also read that people just replace the defective cells. can engines still deliver really good fuel economy and reliability after cell replacements?
what other things to look out for at this mileage? Think 2006 have timing belts not chains, might need changing? water pump, alternator replacements? what else? Thanks

Hi all, I’ve already seen a few posts regarding the oil changes done at the dealer, and I went in for my first oil change since I bought the car CPO (which had 35k miles on it). Anyways, noticed the invoice stated a 5w30 syn blend for turbo engine, which was also my fault because when I dropped off the vehicle I didn’t specify anything I just said “oil change and tire rotation”.
With that said, the tech set my OCI at 3750 miles. Is that a legitimate interval with the oil that was used in my vehicle? Or are they just trying to have me come in earlier? The part # used was MZD5-W3-0BK.
So for anyone that has had this oil done, did you guys go the 5k or changed it earlier?
TIA

I have the opportunity to trade in my 2020 Subaru Outback Premium with 40k miles on it for the exact same 2024 model. The trade-in value would be $26k. The 2024 model would be sold at a couple hundred under invoice at $31k ($34.5k after taxes and fees)
That’s $8500 out of pocket. Is it worth it? There’s nothing wrong with my current car and don’t know if a newer model justifies the cost, even if it’s a great deal.

Hi all, I am first time SUV car owner. I am buying a new Toyota Raize straight from garage, it has Weight Certificate on it's invoice included in its paperwork. Will I need to get a Weight Certificate Every Year done by Licening Authority? Or just this first sale? This car is for personal use only. I asked the sales person but they were so vague, sigh. I just told them I will come back later on.

Hello all,
I would like to start a small claim procedure against a dealership car service in Germany that caused extended electronic damage to my car during a routine service check and then lied to me in emails regarding what the problem was. I have hard proof that they lied and evidence of their deeds (photos before after). I confronted them and they are ghosting me for several months now.
I would therefore need a German lawyer. As my German language skills are not very good, especially in this legal domain, I need one that can speak English to me.
Can anyone please recommend me something on the Swiss-German border, region north of Zürich? I've tried two offices, I was told they do not have capacity at the moment.
Another question: what is the maximum time that can pass since I paid the service invoice (under reservation/Vorbehalt) until I can no longer sue the car service?
Thank you!

Hey guys, I’m afraid I need your help to see if I’ve been swindled.
Here’s some context: I bought my Proton Saga Premium S through a family friend, my mom’s friend’s husband. He is not a Sales Advisor but rather plays the role of a Broker, the middle man.
So here’s the thing, the Loan approved to me is RM36,300 and is already reflected on the CCRIS BNM website.
I made a deposit of RM10,222.80 (so that means the car cost RM46,522.80).
BUT, on my Maybank App, it says my Outstanding Balance is RM42,322.74.
Does that means only a payment of RM4,200.06 was received by the bank?
Isn’t what was supposed to reflect on Outstanding Balance be RM36,300 since I have paid a lump sum of RM10K+ for my DP?
I was told I would receive an invoice upon car collection but I still have not received it. It’s been one week since I have requested for it. Have I been swindled?
I am asking because I would like to confront him but would need to make sure my suspicions are true first.
Other information: - Paid this guy RM500 service fee - Another RM410 for him to sort out my Plate No.
Edit: Okay thank you so much guys for your response and clarification. I am feeling very much reassured now and like most of you have probably realised, not panic so much anymore 😅😅