Autoguard warranty complaintssx

Hello! Picked up a 2021 Jeep grand. Cherokee 80th anniversary this weekend.
Was sold on an AAGI AutoGuard warranty. Bumper to bumper, 6 year extension or 100k miles for $2,800.
Car was originally titled I. Canada, so I cannot get a factory warranty extension. Options are to keep or cancel in the next 60 days.
Does anyone have any experience with this company? Are they good to work with for repairs? Or is this a waste of money.

Hi all
I bought a BMW 3 series from a dealer as my first car.
Everything seemed above board but from the 1 week I had to keep on topping up coolant every few days.
The dealer sold the car with a full inspection, has a fresh MOT with no advisories, pictures of the engine bay/underneath, a full service and complete service history, not CATS and they do have a great reviews which also mention their aftersales care so I was assured.
Rather absent mindedly I kept on driving the car for a month and kept on topping on coolant every 2 days. I didn’t contact the dealer at all during this period as I was busy.
After a month I did contact them but I accidentally said I noticed the issue when I first had the car but did not tell them from the get-go, and they said to bring the car straight in to get it checked out . They also questioned why I didn’t notify them immediately as driving with a coolant issue for over a month can destroy a car and they would’ve more than happy to refund/fix/replace the car. When I did notify them they said to bring the car but I didn’t due to work commitments so I called them a week later (now 5 weeks since I bought)
Now I am topping up almost daily and when making contact they have said that I have made it inevitably worse by not bringing it in and contacting them immediately. It has a Autoguard premium warranty on it and they have now recommended taking it to a VAT garage to get it fixed under warranty as it is my fault that I kept on driving it possibly worsening the issue which I seem to have done.
What should I do ?

Hello everyone, I recently purchased a Corolla with an extended warranty from Hendrick Toyota. However, I regret the decision and would like to cancel it. I reside quite a distance from the dealership, and the contract specifies that I can cancel it by providing written notice to Hendrick Autoguard. The challenge is that their mailing address is a P.O. Box, making it impossible to send it via FedEx/UPS. I am concerned about the possibility of them claiming they never received my mail. Has anyone successfully canceled their warranty by mailing them? Thank you for any advice or experiences you can share!

I'm thinking of dumping this Walser "Platinum" warranty (vehicle service contract) on a newly purchased vehicle. 2018 Audi SQ5 - yes I know Audis are expensive to maintain and fix. I've had several. I've got a pretty good euro mechanic for when I can't figure things out myself. The warranty covers the next 4 years or 48 months of ownership.
I can't find anything on reviews of the service, let alone information on the Administrator, other than a toll free number and a PO box in North Carolina. To me, that doesn't bode well... Walser Autoguard changes their name & DBA to Shitty Guard and my warranty is worthless.
Does anyone have good or bad things experiences with this vehicle service contract?

Hey guys I bought my truck used (25k miles) from a Hendricks Motors dealer. They were pushing their extended warranty (Hendrick Autoguard) I declined at the time of purchase due to still having some factory warranty remaining- which I believe is bumper to bumper up to 3 years or 36,000 miles. I will be approaching that soon and will be looking for an extended warranty. Any recommendations on the best extended warranty out there? Thanks in advance!

I bought a used car from a dealership mid April. The car was great until the check engine and urea light came on on Friday. I have contacted the dealer and was advised that I should contact Autoguard as the car is under warranty with them. I’m starting to wonder if this is really the route I should be going. I will have to pay for the diagnostics as well as whatever goes over the £60 hourly labour rate. With me not even having the car for 6 months, this doesn’t sit right with me. I’m originally from Germany where it’s usually a case of the seller having to proof that the fault wasn’t existing before purchase for the first 6 months. If he fails to do this he gets three chances to repair an item before he has to refund the purchase price… So I am really just trying to figure out where I stand in all of this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’m in the midlands, England.
I got a car from a dealer in December 2022 and didn’t have any issues with it. The car description on autotrader at the time said there was no issue and when I went to check the car out, the dealer said the same and they had recently done some repairs on it and that the car was good and functional.
Three months down the line, in March, the check engine warning light came on and this coincided with when I was going in for a free vehicle check with an authorised dealer for the car brand. They diagnosis of their scan came back and they found a bunch of major faults with the car. The engine was gone, shock absorbers, rear bump stops, leaking fluids, etc. I hardly ever use the car and the car drives smoothly when I do, I’d only done a little over 1500 miles in those three months.
I sent the report to the seller immediately and he advised that I get a second opinion, which I did. The garage said the same thing and confirmed the faults. The seller then told me to take it to a garage they knew and that garage also confirmed the faults. I told the seller to fix it but he said that was my choice if I wanted to fix it or not and that those things are classified as “wear and tear” so he’s not fixing it.
I paid for a one year warranty with the seller for the car, which is offered through Autoguard. I spoke to them and they mentioned that they will not be fixing those faults. As I got the car from a garage and it’s less than 6 months, I believe that they should be responsible and not the warranty company.
I contacted citizens advice and I have sent all the letters they asked me to. The seller has been unresponsive ever since and it’s looking like I will need to take the case to court at this point.
Am I in the wrong here and responsible for fixing these major faults? Or this is the sellers fault for the car not being fit for purpose and matching the description and understanding when it was sold?

The dealership I financed my vehicle with really pushed the purchase of a $5400 “autoguard service contract” that they offer through their family of dealerships. It covers the breakdown of any parts on the vehicle for 6 years for anything not due to negligent use (missing maintenance intervals, normal wear and tear, etc.).
Looking at the Audi manufacturer warranty, I’m having trouble seeing the difference between this and their “warranty” they sold me, other than coverage extending from 4 years (manufacturer) to 6 years (their contract). My question is, should I cancel this? Is it worth the added cost over the manufacturer warranty? The contract states they will refund the cost if it’s cancelled within 60 days of purchase.
Thoughts?

Hi everyone,
I am picking up my brand new kia forte GT tomorrow and they have been asking me about getting an extended warranty for it. I was given a brochure, its an AG+ Autoguard plus vehicle service contract and they want $2,899 for it for coverage of up to 100k miles. I am wondering if this is worth getting or would the warranty it comes with be fine? It seems like it's a lot of money and I've seen other people say their extended warranties were only around 1,500.
Really conflicted on this and could use some advice!

I just purchased a car this past weekend and was forced to add an extended warranty by the finance manager in order to drop my finance rate down from 4.9% to 2.9%. I added it but asked her what to do if I wanted to cancel. She told me to wait 3 months so she doesn't get fined and then I could go to a website(which she provided) and fill out a form to cancel it. A few days passed and I decided that I wanted to just cancel it immediately so I filled out the form on the website that she told me about. I never got a confirmation email or anything, and it seems like it just sends a cancellation form to the dealership. This dealership is reviewed as one of the worst in terms of customer service so I am anticipating a push back if I try to call them up and ask about it. The contract for the Autoguard extended warranty says that I can cancel by sending a letter to some address.
Here is my question...The extended warranty was $2999. If I cancel through the warranty company (AAGI) directly, will they refund the full $2999 to the lienholder? Or did the finance manager make a commission off of the $2999 and I would not get the full refund unless I cancel through the dealership? How does this all work?

Hi, could I have some advice please.
I've got the option to buy a 2 yo Skoda Octavia with 20k miles for a great price from a repo dealer. There is no service history but I can get a warranty from Autoguard (UK) that covers "all mechanical and electrical" up to the retail value of the car.
Assuming HPI paperwork is ok it seems ok as the mechanicals can't be that bad after 2 years and the warranty will save me from any disasters.
Or am I missing something? Is it likely a car would develop serious problems in 2 years if it's never been serviced?

Hi, could I have some advice please.
I've got the option to buy a 2 yo Octavia with 20k miles for a great price from a repo dealer. There is no service history but I can get a warranty from autoguard that covers "all mechanical and electrical" up to the retail value of the car.
Assuming HPI paperwork is ok it seems ok as the mechanicals can't be that bad after 2 years and the warranty will save me from any disasters.
Or am I missing something?

Dear Bolt owners,
I am planning on buying a 2017 Bolt from my local dealership (Hendrick Chevrolet in Durham, NC). The price sounds right, but the dealer is insisting on selling me an additional warranty from Hendrick Autoguard Inc. for an additional $4000. He says it’s a “bumper to bumper” warranty that will cover the car for 4 years/80.000 km from my date of purchase. I wanted to see if anyone could help me with any of these questions:

1. The Bolt is still under its original warranty (it was initially bought in December, 2017). However, the dealer says that, since the vehicle was originally purchased in NJ and now the car is in NC, that original warranty won’t transfer to me. Is that true?
2. Is it worth it to pay such a high price for a warranty? It honestly took me by surprise, since that was not included in their initial offer.

I’d appreciate any insights on these! I’m new to having a car and I don’t want to make a decision that I will later regret.
Thank you and have a happy weekend! 🙂

I bought a 2017 CPO BMW 320i this last week. In the finance office the guy told me he could lower my APR 2% if I bought the Hendricks Autoguard extended warranty($3250-6 year-72k Miles). I had submitted my credit app the day before I went to the dealership and had pre-approval from Capital One. I believe he inflated my initial APR quote as it was higher than Capital One had said it would be. Pretty sure I got taken for a fast one on this. Any feedback or info would be most helpful. I plan on cancelling the extended warranty.

Bought a used car. Has 6mths warranty with dealeAA. Can extend for year at 300ish and 'lifetime' for just shy of a grand. Worth it? Car is 2011 model.

Hi all. I just leased a 2020 Tundra. I got 18K miles a year and drive about 19K (yes I know I’ll be responsible for the $180/year overage on miles. No worries)
Anyway since I’ll be out of factory warranty 1/2 through my lease I purchased the Hendrick Autoguard extended service contract. 4 years 60K miles $0 deductible.
Dealer said it’s comparable to the Toyota one and it’s what their large dealer group sells.
Anyway I was wondering if the $1300 cost is reasonable or not? Too late now and I wasn’t in there trying to grind every last $$ out of them. I’m happy with the truck and the Whole process was smooth and easy.
Thanks

Hey!
I bought a 10 year old Mazda 3 from a dealership. I am not a car guy myself, and as we moved to the UK a few months prior that, I didn't have a mechanic at hand who I could trust to check the car before buying. Watched a few video on what to check on a used car, and based on that, I didn't see any outstanding problem. They sold me the car with 3 months of warranty on the engine, gearbox, suspension.
After 3.5 months, I started to hear a banging noise. I managed to take to car to a service garage, and long story short, I had to replace the underarms for the front wheels (1 was dead, the other one nearly dead), they had to take apart the passenger side drive shaft to grease it, and clean it, also my front right tire was only 2 mm deep, front left tire 3. Also, the brake pads and discs where in a really bad shape, and because of that braking started to feel really jerky. The grand total of the fix was £950.
Is there anything I could do, or I simply have to swallow that financial "hit"? The dealership is using Autoguard warranty, which covers the problems I had. Am I unlucky that these bunch of problems came right after the 3 months were up? :/
The service garage told me that I am lucky the wheels didn't crash on the motorway... I feel like it was quite dangerous to drive a car like this.
Any advice is much appreciated!

Hey guys, I just left a dealership after being there for probably 3-4 hours. I was trying to get a deal on a used 2015 Nissan Altima s with 43k miles. I am located in Illinois. They finally got down to a price 14k out the door. I was going to put down 3500. I have bad credit around a 450. So I knew I wasn't going to get some amazing offer. But i start signing papers and I signed probably 3/4 of the papers and they show me a payment breakdown that seems right. However I see this long sheet that has all the numbers on it and I see a number for $2500 called autoguard classic that adds 2500 on top of the 14k out the door. I did not sign this paper and decided to leave. They also said I needed a proof of residency which I didn't have. I never agreed to any warranty or their other packages/offers. Am I okay? Or can they come after me for payment? I didn't finish the paperwork.

The other day I test drove a 2015 Nissan Murano SL. (This was at a Nissan dealership.) It has about 15k miles on it and the asking price is $28k. I loved the car, and according to my research it appears to be a good deal. I ran the Carfax report when I got home and although the Carfax was clean, I noticed that the car has been at the dealership since May. I'm also a little wary of the price being so low: about 6k below KBB value and almost 10k below market value according to True Car. The car still has about 2 years and 22k miles left on the original warranty.
I'm kind of suspicious because of the price and the fact that it's been on the lot for so long. Does anyone have any insight as to why this might be? Should I raise this concern with the dealer, and if so, what should I say?
UPDATE: Bought the car yesterday. They certified it and I got a 7-yea100,000-mile warranty. The cert/warranty was expensive even after I negotiated the price down (they wanted $3500, I got it for $2450) and I had to pay for some mandatory autoguard and theftshield BS (managed to save $100 on that but there wasn't much room for negotiation bc I paid cash). I was a little annoyed about that stuff but I still feel like I got a great deal and I'm happy with my new (to me) Murano!