Rules:

1. Must have actually got cancelled - become persona non grata at least for some time. Chris Brown wouldn't count, for example, because he never got cancelled - he just kept going. Joss Whedon would count - no one will work with him anymore.
   
2. Comeback must be legit - being accepted back into their relevant "scene". Andrew Callaghan releasing vids on a channel he controls doesn't count. If he got another HBO deal, or was getting interviewed by big media on his projects, that would count. Kevin Spacey appearing in a cheap French indie film wouldn't't count. Kevin Spacey getting a role in a movie that does like $100m at the box office would count. Ellen being back on cable every week would count.
   

I'm really thinking of people who you think a critical mass of people are going to "forgive" or at least not care about their transgressions enough that they are accepted back into the mainstream some time in the future.

Hi, this is my first post here and I can't just search up any reason for it or maybe I'm clueless. As the title says, my phone is unable to use USB-C to USB-C but I am able to use USB-A to USB-C. I have been using USB-C to USB-C everyday of my life, portable, head plugs, are all USB-C's. Went for phone repair but was told its probably charging port problem and doesn't have hardware in-stock to change. Repairing the phone isn't the issue but I can't comprehend what is causing the issue for not allowing me to use USB-C to USB-C. I've read through couple of the reddit posts but I can't find any answers.
As for context, my phone (Samsung S22+) is exposed to light rain for quite long while I'm travelling on my Motorbike and dropped my phone once.

• My charger is original Samsung charger, the head plug and cable. No issues charging in the past.
• I've tested every USB-C to USB-C I can find but unable to use it. Even at the repair shop.
• My phone is 3 months old and this is my first time dropping my phone.
• Repairer took a look inside the device, found no water lodged into it.

1. Danny is a nice guy. He isn’t mean. He is fair to other creators and keeps his audience staying kind online.
2. Danny is funny. When I watch his videos, it feels like talking and laughing with a close friend. When I feel really lonely, I put on one of his videos and it feels like I’m connecting with someone. He probably will never know who I am but he’s changed my life and makes me feel hopeful for having friends.
3. Danny is a good person & has dogs. Those go hand in hand, I suppose. But he just seems so nice.
4. Danny is a good dad. He cable manages, and spends time with his kids. He always speaks so highly of Laura. I hope I can have a partnership as amazing as theirs someday.
5. Danny is wholesome. His nutcracker, his goofy music, he’s just a great guy.
6. Danny is my favorite candidate for overthrowing the hat man. Danny would do a better job.

All of the sudden my PC takes forever to boot up. I mean 10+ minutes. Before I get to Windows, the Asus screen says "Scanning and repairing drive" for a little while.
When I enter Windows, the explorer doesn't respond and restarts a few times. Can't do anything, so I turn the PC back off again.
I start trouble shooting by unplugging USB-stuff, doesn't help. Finally I unplug the SSD and the computer boots like normal.
If I plug the SSD back in with the sata-cable, it doesn't appear in explorer or disc management. No "new device found" or anything. Rather, disc manager freezes and only goes back to normal when the SSD is unplugged.
Now I'm getting nervous. The drive contains a lot of work stuff and tons of pictures. Hindsight is lovely - I don't have nearly the backup that I would have wanted now.
Is there anything I can do to try and access the files on the SSD? Should I try myself or send it to some company in hopes of restoring anything?
Any and all help is very appreciated. A bit desperate here.

TL;DR: If you ever break S-CPU-N PIN 112, you can file down the CHIP to uncover part of the trace, to reattach it to it's original trace on the board. If the original trace is gone as well for some reason, you can just attach it on the feet of PIN 113. The traces are connected on the motherboard.
I recently bought a pretty much f****ed up 1 CHIP 01 PAL SNES for about 15 dollars. From the outside it looked good, but the inside was what will haunt me for years now. Extremely dusty, dirty, and someone tried to do a SuperCiC Mod with it.
The board was installed below the cartridge slot and in place. He probably went to lift the needed pins, started with PIN 111 on the S-CPU-N (the 1Chip basically) and ended his/her journey there.
PIN 111 and 112 were missing. Both broken.
Thinking I bought trash, I heard that the black surface of that, and basically almost all Chips, are just covers / mantles. (Never thought about it and I am modding for years now and am actually an IT guy... wow)
Since it's destroyed anyway, there's nothing left to lose actually. So I went ahead and filed down the chips until both traces were open. Since the spots are awfully tiny, I accidentally filed a small part of 113 free as well... (oopsie... would have made it easier if I hadn't)
Originally, since the trace in the pcb of PIN 112 was missing as well, I took another one chip i had and checked where i could connect the trace of the chip itself to on the broken board.
I checked every possible place, and I never got a response from my little beeping device. :(
I then checked the PINs of the S-CPU-N as a last straw and there it was. The beep on PIN 113.
Back to the broken board I immediately checked if I could just solder the traces on the chip itself... but nope. There was some sort of resistors in between both traces on the chip for PIN112 and 113.
Not a big deal, I could simply connect it from the inside to the outside feet which is connected to the board. Right? RIGHT???
Holy cow... since I also had to work with PIN 111 it was pure torture. The space is so god damn tiny holy macaroni. A smaller iron wouldn't bring up enough heat marriage both, the solder and the copper trace on the chip... and I really don't want to f this up. So I had to work with a bigger one that was just able to get in the gap. Since I had to use a bigger Iron, I would always touch both traces ...
So there were cases where I combined PIN 111 to PIN 112, 112 to 113 and once all three. Eventually I got it, checked if anything touched anything it shouldn't and got the responses I was hoping for.. no Beeps on the chips, beep on trace 112 to feet of 113, no beep from 112 to 113 on the chip. perfect.
I installed the missing LED, the ghosting fix and put everything back together again.
Fingers crossed....
After the fix (NSFW)
Oh and he melted the reset button so it's non functional and ripped off trace 10 where the old CIC sat.... holy moly never had a device in such da state. On the other side, I just do it as a hobby.
I fixed the reset button by cutting it open, bending the plates so it looks like how it should and sealed it again afterwards.
One last thing to add: All PAL 1 Chip consoles I had so far weren't too bright. I am using a normal PAL RGB Cable and I didn't need to do the brightness fix on the consoles (adding three 750 ohm resistors). The image brightness looked exactly like the one on the US 3 Chip I had. I compared the games using my two capture cards side by side. Both CCs are internal Live Gamer 4Ks.
Normally, a 1 Chip console is naturally a bit too bright, causing colors to blend in where there should be two different color tones f.e...
Okay! Hopefully one time, one lonely wandering soul in the same situation as me can read this and grow hope again to fix the mess he/she is facing.
TL;DR: If you ever break S-CPU-N PIN 112, you can file down the CHIP to uncover part of the trace, to reattach it to it's original trace on the board. If the original trace is gone as well for some reason, you can just attach it on the feet of PIN 113. The traces are connected on the motherboard.

Hello, I own a canon 2600pro inkjet printer. I am currently printing through wifi, but the files take a while to load each time, I am wondering if it will go faster with a ethernet cable and how much faster as well?
I tried a normal ethernet cable to plug in from the printer directly into the PC, but every file took hours to load over instead.

Long story, got a "broken" GTX 970 ti for less than $50, being the card that I've always wanted when I didn't have the money to get it, I said why not, at best it'll work at worse it'll be a nice display piece.
The seller told me that the card had artifacts leading to crashes, classic faulty VRAM, reflow old GPU right? Well...
The first day I installed it on my computer shows me the said artifacts on the boot screen (TUF logo still visible, the artifacts are around the logo), then a low-res screen 800x600, the DVI is connected to the card, I can navigate and stuff, after 10 mins the screen blinks and "turns on" the proper resolution, I install drivers, everything goes alright, I restart and no visible artifacts! They're gone like magic, I click "debug mode" just in case and I try some games, everything works flawlessly, temps go as low as 20c and to 50c while gaming (Arkham Knight, Fortnite, Lol, all on max)
I said "fuck yes" and I turned my PC off, next day I turn it on and everything's alright too, no artifacts not even while booting, I game all day, turn it off in the night, but here's the thing the next day I take off the card from my PC to replace the pads (pad, the Strix 980 ti only comes with one)
I replace it and I put it on my PC again, then the artifacts are back again, and the Windows logo appears, it completely crashes, I install my RX 570 again to uninstall the drivers with DDU, then I put the 980 ti and the low res screen is back, but now after 30 mins it doesn't do the magical "blink" that it did before, the screen stays in that low resolution and if I try to install drivers, the screen is filled with artifacts and it crashes, error 43 appears when I put my RX back again to see what happened
Maybe AMD drivers are causing a conflict? I uninstall everything, nothing changes.
Then I took it to some tech repair service, they connect the card to two PSUs because they don't have a 500/600w (Idk how to use two PSUs for one PC but heh)
No artifacts while booting, it goes to Windows in the proper resolution (no low-res home screen) Sadly they wanted to charge me over $100 for a proper testing/troubleshooting
Coming back home I put it on my PC, artifacts again, I left it for two days until I said let's do again, why not, boom, the card turns on flawlessly, same deal as before, check the temps, all ok, game again, it crashes.
So here's what happens, after plug and remove dozens of times randomly the card will boot and everything will work alright if I turn on "debug mode" if I don't, the card despite running and installing drivers will crash, but also the card will show artifacts and will refuse to even start windows randomly, or so I thought...
Because I tried to NOT remove the card from the Motherboard, and instead fiddle with the PSU cables (pigtail cable with 2x 8 pins)
Guess what, changing positions/plugging/removing will give different results, sometimes it'll show artifacts, or will run great, or it'll show "half" artifacts, or it'll not even boot
So what's going on with this card? right now it's working, and I can even turn the PSU off and when I turn it on the card works normally, but if I disconnect the PSU cables/remove the card from the Motherboard, EVEN if I turn the PSU off for hours it somehow will trigger the random artifacting/crashes, even if I don't swap places of the PSU cables
How it is possible? How the card "knows" when I remove it from the PC even when I completely turn it off? And what is causing the random artifacting? because it is working perfectly now, not a single dot in the screen, and all temps are great, and when I went to the tech repair it showed no artifacting even when he plugged in and out may times? It is my PSU causing this? Because I've read everywhere that artifacting is 100% a GPU's problem and a PSU can't cause artifacting, yet it appears/dissapears when I randomly plug in/out the PSU cables, (PSU: EVGA 500W bronze, working flawlessly with my RX 570 for years, but the RX only uses a single 8pin connector, the 980 ti uses two)
I'm really curious about how the card detects that I removed it from the PC even without any kind of electricity on the PC or the card even unplugging the power cable, like the card knows that I took it off.
(For the record, I'm not in the States, prices are astronomically different here, 4x more even in used hardware, an used 980 ti costs $200 not kidding, a 1050 ti costs $180, the lowest RTX costs $450, virtually no difference between used or new hardware for how expensive it is. Buying online isn't an option due to absurd taxes from a corrupt government, be thankful for every day that you spend living in the US of A)

Ive had it stored for about 2 years with 0 battery.... it had no problem charging up, and starting while plugged in (except when i turn on the second motor). and the second the charger goes out it turns off, and when i turn it on the display just flicker one time. ive checked all the cables, and the fuses looked good, but had a burnt electric smell. any help ?

Ive had it stored for about 2 years with 0 battery.... it had no problem charging up, and starting while plugged in (except when i turn on the second motor). and the second the charger goes out it turns off, and when i turn it on the display just flicker one time. ive checked all the cables, and the fuses looked good, but had a burnt electric smell. any help ?

Ive had it stored for about 2 years with 0 battery.... it had no problem charging up, and starting while plugged in (except when i turn on the second motor). and the second the charger goes out it turns off, and when i turn it on the display just flicker one time. ive checked all the cables, and the fuses looked good, but had a burnt electric smell. any help ?

I have recently gotten my psvr for ps4 set up and having controller issues. My ds4 doesn't seem to work in any game, it turns solid red and only PS button will work... any ideas? I have reset and re-paired it several times. I have bought specific ps4 data cable to charge it, it works in any other ps4 application, I am stumped

Last night I was using my PC and all was in order, although the peripherals and monitor didn't want to be found when I was booting it up. I reinserted my display cable 5-6 times and it suddenly was found. Problem solved.
Today it happened again except it won't be found. No display. No peripherals.
The CPU and RAM lights have come on saying they aren't registered.
All the RGB lights are in and the fans are spinning
I've reseated the ram and GPU,
Attempted to flash the bios but I'm unsure if it worked because I can't find the bios LED
Cleared CMOS,
Reinserted all the PSU and motherboard cables, tested different monitors and peripherals
And unplugged the reset sw thing
Nothings fixed it.... I don't really know what to do?
MSI Mag X670e Tomohawk WiFi
Nvidia Geforce RTX 3080
Kingston fury 2x32gb ddr5
Ryzen 7 7800x3d

Hi, I've been experiencing very strange behavior with my PC for quite some time.
It all started with Portal: Revolution. When I entered the first elevator, there was a specific type of crash: the monitor reported signal loss (as if I had pulled the DisplayPort cable out), all PC fans went full blast, and the last few seconds of audio got looped indefinitely. The PC ignored any input, and the only way to recover was to disconnect it from power. Afterward, I had to disconnect and reconnect my power button, keyboard, mouse (which are connected via a USB hub), and one of my SSDs because the PC would ignore them otherwise. Turning HDR off fixed this issue for this particular game.
Then, while playing Content Warning, the exact same type of crash happened somewhat randomly: mostly when falling from a high place but also for seemingly no reason at all. I found no fix myself, so I just stopped trying to play it.
After experiencing problems with Content Warning, I performed a clean Windows install, fully wiping all of my drives, thinking I had some kind of virus. However, it had no effect on fixing the game.
Then a similar crash happened in both Team Fortress 2 and CS2 (I don't think it's connected to the Source Engine because Dota works perfectly). The only difference from the first type of crash was that I could still hear and talk to my buddies on Discord.
Now, my PC crashes outside of games, and it's a completely different type of crash. The PC just ignores any input, but the monitor still outputs an image, and the fans work normally. The power button does not work, so I need to disconnect the PC from power.
Timeline of crashes:

• Portal: Revolution: >5 months ago
• Content Warning: 2 month ago
• TF2: 1 month ago
• CS2 and outside games: <1 week ago

PC Specs:

• OS: Windows 11 Home 64-bit (10.0, Build 22631)
• System Model: HP OMEN by HP 45L Gaming Desktop GT22-0xxx (prebuilt)
• BIOS: F.51
• Processor: 12th Gen Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-12700K (20 CPUs), ~3.6GHz
• RAM: HyperX Fury 2x16Gb DDR4
• GPU: NVIDIA GeForce RTX 3080

If you need anything else that might help diagnose the issue please tell me and I'll provide it.
Thanks!

Hi all,
I am currently purchasing my first property and just received a report from the electrician that observed the following two problems:

• Tail runs over 3m from meter box to Fuseboard
  
• No RCD protection on supply cable
  

As a first-time buyer and non-electrician, I'm curious as to how much of an issue these two observations are. Are they expensive to fix? Are they dangerous? How necessary is it that I pay to fix them once purchasing the property? What are the consequences of ignoring the observations?

hi, i have an issue. my partner and i (complete noobs in terms of technology) accidentally plugged in the hdmi cable in the wrong place instead of gpu. could this damage the pc? bc it doesnt want to turn on with the monitor plugged in (in the correct place this time). pc sometimes turns on but then turns off on its own. we also didnt turn off either the pc or the monitor while plugging it in for the first time (im now reading that this could damage the pc? is it true?) monitor is samsung odessey g3 and i can send pics of the insides of the pc, as we dont remember the name of the mother board or the graphics card. pc was built like a month ago. monitor still works on a laptop. edit: i first plugged it wrong, but then plugged the cable into the gpu, as didnt know the english name for it and called it wrong.

May be it will be useful for someone. Actually there is no option to use sim card in Dubai, dealer deactivated it. And only Wi-Fi is option to use mobile hotspot which requires to spend long time while it finds mobile and connects to internet. Or cable for /android car. After last few updates I found that I can see SMS notifications on screen which are active via Bluetooth only. Surprised that Google maps began to work online immediately.

IGS Rep: https://www.reddit.com/IGSRep/comments/rnhny2/cable_hogues_igs_rep_page/
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[+[!STREAMs!]$] UFC 302 LIVE Coverage ON TV Channel. The UFC 302 event, featuring the highly anticipated bout between Islam Makhachev and Dustin Poirier, is set to be a blockbuster. Taking place at the iconic Prudential Center on Saturday, June 1, 2024, this fight is expected to draw significant attention from MMA fans around the world. Whether you're a seasoned UFC follower or a newcomer, this guide will provide all the essential information you need to enjoy the event.
🔴Watch Now: UFC 302 Live Free
🔴Watch Now: UFC 302 Streams
UFC 302 Event Overview
When and Where
Date: Saturday, June 1, 2024
Time: 10 p.m. ET
Location: Prudential Center, Newark, New Jersey
Main Event: Islam Makhachev vs. Dustin Poirier
The Prudential Center, known for hosting some of the most thrilling sports events, will once again be the venue for an epic UFC night. Fans can expect an electrifying atmosphere as two of the best fighters in the lightweight division face off.
Fight Card Highlights
Main Event: Islam Makhachev vs. Dustin Poirier
Co-Main Event: Amanda Nunes vs. Julianna Peña
Featured Bout: Robert Whittaker vs. Marvin Vettori
Prelims: Up-and-coming fighters showcasing their skills
Main Event: Makhachev vs. Poirier
Fighter Profiles
Islam Makhachev
Islam Makhachev, known for his exceptional grappling and wrestling, has been on a meteoric rise in the lightweight division. Trained by the legendary Khabib Nurmagomedov, Makhachev has demonstrated a blend of technical prowess and physical strength that makes him a formidable opponent.
Record: 23-1-0
Height: 5'10" (178 cm)
Weight: 155 lbs (70 kg)
Reach: 70.5" (179 cm)
Dustin Poirier
Dustin "The Diamond" Poirier is a seasoned fighter with a reputation for resilience and striking power. Poirier's journey through the UFC has been marked by memorable fights and notable victories, making him a fan favorite and a tough competitor.
Record: 29-7-0 (1 NC)
Height: 5'9" (175 cm)
Weight: 155 lbs (70 kg)
Reach: 72" (183 cm)
How to Watch UFC 302 Live
Broadcast Details
For fans eager to catch the live action, there are several ways to watch UFC 302:
Pay-Per-View (PPV)
The main card, including the Makhachev vs. Poirier fight, will be available on pay-per-view. Check with your local cable or satellite provider for PPV options and pricing.
Online Streaming
Various streaming services will broadcast the event live. Popular platforms include:
ESPN+ (USA): Exclusive streaming partner for UFC events in the United States.
BT Sport (UK): Available for viewers in the United Kingdom.
DAZN (Canada, Germany, Japan): A versatile option for international viewers.
Mobile Apps
Many broadcasters offer mobile apps that allow you to watch the fight on your smartphone or tablet. Ensure you have a stable internet connection for the best viewing experience.
Start Time
The main card is scheduled to start at 10:00 PM ET (Eastern Time). However, the preliminary bouts will begin earlier, typically around 6:00 PM ET. It's advisable to tune in early to catch all the exciting fights leading up to the main event.

After long time journey trying some headphones like meze's, focal's, DCA's, hifiman's etc finally i found my endgame headphone. Its' Sony's MDR Z1R. The guitar, the vocal, the double kick drum, everything is perfect. Z1R also can make all songs that i tested have a soul. Z1R also suit for all my favorite genres, like heavy metal, folk, rock, and kpop. Since it's expensive headphone, i will carefully deciding to buy or not. So, my questions is.. 1. Are the stock cable good enough? 2. Are there any good quality carrying case for travel? 3. How to store expensive headphone like this? 4. Are there any smaller size headphone that sounds like Z1R? I tried z7m2, but sounds different for me. (This is just curious question) 5. I also finding endgame iem, any iem sounds like Z1R? 6. Do i need dedicated dac/amp? I already have fiio ka17. 7. Does Z1R leak lots of sound? In this case, using hiby r4 low gain, 3.5mm cable at 90 volume. Thanks

These are my experiences. Theyre not anywhere close to most... but still happened. To me... those are the ones that really speak volumes as to the existence of... so much more than we're told. Not mine specifically, but the detailed, often kinda anticlimatic brushes with things we cant identify or make sense of, but exceed or lack,the abilities and traits of humans.
Anywho...
I was idk...8.. 10 ish. Warwood WV... small town sits between App. foothills and Ohio River. Furthest reach of WV N. panhandle.... For descriptive purposes, my Grandparents had a shotgun house I think it's called, walk in front door, wall straight thru hall into kitchen and out the back door. Straight shot. L room from on left. Steps up or down on right. So said gnite to Gramma and Pap and I crossed from L room to hallway, towards steps, F and B doors now on my R and L.. I look, and idk why,.. towards the back door and in its window are three heads, kinda bobbing up and down. Like they're trying to see in... And they smiled. They kinda looked like Moe from the 3 stooges, lol but not at all human. Humanoid... Not human. Something about the eyes. I didn't recall this til recently but my mother confirmed me mentioning it the next day after seeing it... never saw anything like that again. Don't recall anything after.
Ffwd, moved to OH. Athens, The Plains areas. 13 14 yrs old. One night as the passenger cruising down a back road.... We saw this... Really big wolf... Quadriped... Greenish yellow eyes. Looked at us like it couldn't care less about a van driving by it. Not an animalistic reaction. Not a crazy looking specimen,... Save it's size and eyes I guess... The kicker though... There are no wolves in Ohio. Atleast not that far south.
Aaaaaand... Roughly 30... I lived in and worked for an apt complex in DE. at the time. I was walking from one court, down a hill with a trench made where water drains, next to a small patch of woods, on my way to my court at the bottom of the hill. The woods are like. ... Idk... A soccer field size. Nothing big at all. It's dark. I gotta watch my feet cause this trench is an ankle breaker at best if you don't mind it. But I hear... Mmmm feel something kinda drawing me to look towards the woods on my right, as the apartment building brick wall is on my left.. I see this... Profile of what would be a person, peeking from around a tree about half way into the woods... So I'm seeing it from hips to shoulders and head roughly. The two things though... It had ears or horns on its head, but I couldn't discern because it's entirely made of static.. snow.. like when cable goes out... if your old enough to recall. I got a really weird nervous feeling, put my head down and walked faster to the lights of my parking lot. Never saw anything like that again. Ive listened to many many of these experiences here and elsewhere, but Ive only heard of something close to this 3 or 4 times, including mine.
Nkt goinna touch the numerous and continuing sleep paralysis issues and reoccuring "shadows" that linger.... right now.
Thanky