I am truly at my wits' end. I remember looking for apartments in 2017, the abundance of low cost apartments. 2 bedrooms 2 bathrooms at affordable prices. My current landlord has decided to kick us from a garage that was converted to a room where we were paying $900 a month + utility. Her reasoning? She has family coming from Haiti and they need a place to stay despite her having a bedroom next to us that sits empty. We offered to pay her more just to have a place to stay and she won't accept the money.
I live in Palm Beach County and have been a FL resident for 26 years and I've never been so sick to my stomach seeing the state of housing. I don't know where to look anymore. I've looked on Zillow, Trulio, Craiglist, Apartments All of these sites if not riddled with scam postings have ridiculous requirements which makes it harder to find a place to live, like these scammers are actually trying to take advantage of people in desperate times. How are these landlords and property managements expecting every FL resident to make monthly 3x what they're charging for run down units?! I'm trying to get my drone piloting license in hopes that I can get better paying jobs. I've even considered programs like the USDA Direct Loan and FHA program but these can take months up to a year which I don't have.
I just want to know how you guys are surviving in this state without losing it? I just need help with finding a home so I'm not homeless. I've even tried going to all of the HUD and Section 8 offices near me and to no surprise those lists are full so they're not taking any more applicants.
Edit: Wanted to clarify I'm 26 years old born and raised in Florida and I live with my mother who barely brings in any income every week so most of the bills I'm saddled with. She's 2 years away from even qualifying for SSI.
Further edit: Unfortunately some people are getting confused, my mother does not own the home. We're renters, we rent from a landlord.
Edit 9/12: Thank you for all your responses and helping point me in the right direction. I had a conversation with my mom today without her throwing a tantrum. I decided I'm going to make one final attempt to have a conversation with our landlord and see if she will accept an additional $300 - $500 for the rent. If the landlord refuses my offer, my mom will have to stay either with a friend or her boyfriend. I will find my way as I've always been able to. A huge thanks to the person that helped connect me with Compass Community Center as I've been struggling with my mental health. Also thank you for the award! I'll try to keep you all updated on what happens. I'm going to do everything in my power to get out of this state.

Anyone have line of sight on a 2011 BMC Road Racer post??
The post specs are 73.5 model, 390-400 mm long, tear drop shaped using the wedge with angle/lock design. Mine cracked at the bolt hole connecting to the saddle. Great bike. Hate to put it to the side. BMC no longer carries. None showing up on ebay or craiglist.

My 86' Trek Elance 300. Some pics first.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1qsgab9cneN2_rIXa3tQRV5LYEgMlKv6B/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KUg1frYWlLKjxpwHT_Nat2tDuXNxH0aL/view?usp=sharing
In good condition. Re-painted it, swapped in areo brake levers, new saddle, new downtube shifters, new wheelset (cheapest one REI has) and Vittoria tires (27x1 1/8), as well as new Freewheel. About to replace the rear derailleur with a Shimano 105 since the current one is not working properly and slows me down.
This got me thinking - should I eventually move to 700c wheels, Cassette, STI Shifters? Is it worth it?

• pros: vintage look. work already put into it. rides fairly well and hopefully the new derailleur helps.
• cons: marginal value for further updates. Vintage parts are relatively harder to find.

OR should I dig into FB marketplace, Nextdoor, or even Craiglist to find a used modern road bike instead? If so, which modern ones perform similarly to my Bumble Bee? Is it worth it?
This is my first road bike so I don't know what level this vintage bike is and therefore which modern road bikes provide significant better riding experience and performance.
I ride on fairly well paved paths about 40-60 miles per week in Southern California sun.
Would love to hear your thoughts! Thanks!

Apologies if this isn't the right place to post this.
I found a 2019 Kona Sutra (bought in 2020), in my size, with fenders and rack, offered on craiglist for 1850$ CAD. Post says barely used, which I will obviously verify in-person. After some research, I found out the price for the kona sutra in 2019 was 1900$ CAD (that is, if they didn't get a discount since it was the previous year's model). So basically, they're selling it for MSRP, minus taxes. This seems a bit extreme, especially if the brooks saddle was already broken in. Sellers on the used market are abusing the shortage right now and selling for much higher price than they should.
What's a fair price I should pay? I don't want to be cheap, I just want to get something fair.

Wiki Wednesday

Purchase Advice: Essential Gear for Cycling
Hi friends! Hope y’all are doing well. Last week in our Wiki Wednesday Journal Club, we talked about purchase advice for the Original Peloton Bike vs Bike+. This week, I want to dive into essential gear for your bike.
I want to discuss essential gear, upgrades, unnecessary or junk items, awesome things to add to your setup, etc. Some of us are just looking for the bare minimum and most cost effective ways to get up and riding. Some of us have had our bikes for a while and are looking to either upgrade gear or pimp out their setup. LETS FUCKIN’ GO!!
This week I have included SURVEYS!! These are for both Peloton Equipment owners and DIY riders!!

• Heart Rate Monitor Survey
  
• Shoes and pedals
  
• Fans
  
• Floors and Mats
  
• Sound: how do you listen to cycling classes
  

Note: For those of you looking for advice on buying a used Peloton or DIY options - we will have that at another time. These sections in the wiki were updated recently and we have more pressing updates.

Bare minimum gear to get riding

So you’re going to buy a bike. If you’ve read any previous threads or Daily Discussion threads - folks are always talking about gear. We have a ton of gear recommendations in the wiki. There are a ton of gadgets, tools, equipment, accessories, and gear you can get to pimp your ride. But what are the bare essentials to get rolling?
Last week we discussed the accessory packages that Peloton offers. Since we already discussed the junky HRM and wired headphones, we won’t discuss those here.
So lets chat - what do you need to get riding?
Well, part of that depends on where you set up your bike. Are you on carpet or a hard surface like tile, hardwood, vinyl, etc?
Here is a very basic list to get you riding

1. If you’re on carpet, you’ll want a piece of plywood to stabilize the bike
   
2. You’ll probably want a thin mat under the bike
   
3. Shoes
   
4. Towels
   
5. A fan or maybe several fans
   
6. Water bottle
   
7. Workout clothes
   

A heart rate monitor (HRM) is NOT required to get started. Many people consider it essential. I recommend getting one but any bike will operate without a HRM. I will discuss HRM later in this post.

Plywood

If you’re on carpet, you will definitely want to consider picking up a piece of plywood for under your bike. Depending on how plush your carpet is, your bike will feel very wobbly on carpet no matter how much you level the feet. This is due to the softness and give in the substrate. By adding a piece of plywood, you’re creating a more stable surface.
This isn’t required as there are folks who use their bike without plywood on their carpet. But a lot of people complain that they do not feel stable. Again, it’s going to vary a lot from person to person and how plush their carpet is.
Whether or not you use plywood - please note it takes about 4-6 weeks for the bike to weigh down and settle in its spot. Think about any piece of furniture you’ve placed on carpet, it eventually leaves a dent in the carpet once it has been there long enough. This is true even if you use plywood. Just give it some time to settle and it will become more stable.
Stability on carpet also is affected by how wild you are on the bike. If you’re an experienced cyclist, you’re probably going to have more control over your form and be smooth on the bike. New riders tend to use their body weight and sway a lot on the bike, so they will experience a lot more wobble. Once you’ve taken a few classes you’ll hear instructors talk about staying steady on the bike.

Mat under the bike

The wiki for mats under the bike. Many of you may think, why is this even necessary??
If you’ve never taken a cycling class, let me warn you. You’re gonna sweat a lot. Like dripping wet and leave puddles on the floor kind of sweat. The thing about a mat/pad/floor-protector is you really only need two things: sweat/waterproof and some padding to dampen the sound profile. They're all thin, you don't need 1"+ of padding here, almost anything will do. Peloton's mat at 72" x 36" is pretty much perfect - it’s thin, good quality, and looks great. It also matches the bike if that’s your thing. But there are tons of other options available. Some folks use those locking horse stall mats with great success.
What is the problem with sweat? First you’ll produce a lot of it so depending on the flooring you’re on, you’ll want to protect the floor. Second, sweat contains a lot of bacteria - if you don’t clean it up it will start to get funky. You can use cleaners to wipe up the sweat without worrying about damaging your floors. You can even take the mat outside every so often and spray it off with the hose and dry in the sun (which also kills bacteria).
For example, if you’re on hardwood floors - you may want to protect from scratches but also sweat stains. If you’re on tile or linoleum, you could always move the bike and mop.
If you’re on carpet, you’ll put a piece of plywood down that is the same size or just under the size of your mat. Trust me when I say, if you’re not using plywood you will still want a mat if you’re riding on carpet You will saturate your carpet with sweat and tears - 100% guaranteed. That sweat will saturate the carpet and pad. It will fester, mold, and get funky as hell really quickly. It’s a lot easier to wipe down a mat than it is to replace your stanky ass carpet.
Peloton's mat at 72" x 36" is pretty much perfect - it’s thin, good quality, and looks great. A lot of folks opt for this mat since it’s one less thing to do research on. But there are other recommendations in the wiki for mats under the bike.
Seasoned Peloton Athletes, what mat are you using under the bike??

Water bottles

Yep, we have a wiki about water bottles!
Hydration is important y’all. Remember how I mentioned you’re sweating a lot? Yeah, you’re gonna want a water bottle or two. I personally have two camelback water bottles. My best frienemy, u/kraphytone, knows I hate condensation and sent me an insulated camelback water bottle last year for Christmas that is my go to for workouts.
Seasoned athletes, what are your favorite water bottles??

Fans

Yep, we have a wiki for fans!
Remember how I said you’re gonna sweat a lot? Yeah, you’re gonna be hot as fuck and having a fan can help cool you down and perform better. But it also helps prevent the room from getting that funky stank aroma. Depending on climate, your HVAC system, humidity, and air circulation, you may want to invest in one or several. A great, high-powered fan can drop the room temp 5+ degrees simply by assisting in air circulation, and most are in the $12-25 range
My bike is in my basement which never gets above 68F and I still have a fan. I love them and hate riding without one. The community favorite is the vornado. Lots of folks even have their fans on a smart switch so they can operate it with a remote.
Some folks have fans that clip on the handlebars, but I personally like ALL THE WIND and opted for a beast fan. I have mine sitting on a dresser next to me pointed at my chest.
What fans are y’all using? Where do you have your fan(s)?

Shoes n’ Pedals

If you’re riding either peloton bike, you’ll want shoes of some sort. Shoes are required as pedalling barefoot is dangerous and uncomfortable. Period. End of story.
Shoes n’ Pedals Wiki**
What are your options for shoes??
Both the Original Peloton Bike and Peloton Bike+ will come standard with Look Delta Pedals. If you want to use the pedals that come standard with the bike you will need to have cycling shoes that are compatible with a 3-bolt system.
The peloton shoes are pretty decent and are recommended if you’re using a referral code to purchase your bike. If you buy the Peloton branded shoes, they will come with cleats.
However, if you buy cycling shoes elsewhere it is uncommon to have the cleats included and will need to be purchased separately.
Can I use my sneakers?
Please note that it is dangerous to ride on the stock pedals with sneakers. You will injure yourself. However, you can ride with sneakers if you change out the pedals for toe cages. Yes, but you’ll have to change out the pedals. Neither Peloton Bikes sold today come standard with toe cages - however you can buy a pair of dual sided pedals that have cages on one side and Look Delta on the other from Peloton. You’ll have to phone them to add this to your order as they are not sold on their website.
Overall, you won’t get a lot of support for riding with sneakers and toe cages here. Nearly all of us ride with cycling shoes. Some of us started in toe cages and have since converted to cycling shoes. Toe cages are just not efficient or comfortable to ride. You waste more energy trying to stabilize yourself and you lose the power of the pull portion of the pedal cycle. I personally think that riding in toe cages is dangerous because it encourages poor form and will result in injury.
Other types of cycling shoes and pedals
Cycling is a sport and there are tons of pedal and cleat systems available. If you want to use another type of clipless system such as SPD, SPD-SL, Look Keo, Speed Play, etc - you will have to purchase those on your own. Again, shoes and cleats are almost always sold separately.
What if I use SPD and my spouse uses LOOK??
There are options that are dual sided with SPD and Look. But they are difficult to find during the pandemic. Folks in our sub have recommended the Schwinn Triple Link Pedals most frequently.
VENZO Sealed Fitness Exercise Spin Bike CNC Pedals Compatible with Look ARC Delta & Shimano SPD 9/16" for Peloton ($80): a popular choice for those looking for pedals that will accept both SPD and LOOK cleats
Schwinn Triple Link Pedals ($140): These pedals accept SPD, LOOK, or toe cages. You can often find them on ebay for as low as $10 but you have to act quickly.
If you have other dual sided options, please let me know!
Where to buy cycling shoes:
Your best bet is to go to your local bike shop, get expert advice, and try on a variety of sizes. Generally, you are looking for a snug fit that's still comfortable. At a cycling shop, you will find higher-quality shoes at the same price point Peloton sells their shoes. The tricky part is getting shoes that will be compatible with the clips on whatever bike you're using. Be sure you look at the pedals before you buy so you know what you're needing. If you are riding regularly, you will want to invest in a pair of cycling shoes. Just make sure the pair you buy support clips compatible with the bike you're using.
Alternatively, you can go to a sporting goods store and see what they offer. REI in the US has a decent selection of shoes. They also have a very generous return policy. Zappos also sells cycling shoes.
But we live in a different world now with the covid-19 pandemic. Not all of us have the option to visit our local bike shop or sporting goods store. There are always options online - but please use caution when buying online and make sure the retailer has a generous return policy.
I’ve personally bought shoes from REI, Amazon, and most recently [Bikeshoes](www.bikeshoes.com). I highly recommend BikeShoes - they have a huge selection, fast shipping, and generous return policy.
What about us weirdos with big ass feet??
Y’all I feel ya. We all have weird feet. Some are narrow, long, wide, high arch...we are all different. That’s why we always recommend visiting a local bike shop to try on some options. But as above, we are all living in Coronaville now.
The wiki has some great options for the big foot in your life! However, it might take some searching to find retailers that have the size. I would check with your local bike shop if possible - they often can place special orders. Alternatively, if Amazon is a bust you can always look at BikeShoes - they have search filters so you can search by your specific needs.

Towels

Remember I said you’d sweat a ton? Yeah, it’s clutch to have a towel to wipe your face off during a brutal ride. Depending on your level of perspiration and length of workout, you’ll want one or two handy.
Recommendations? Well, they don’t have to be special or peloton branded. Use whatever you want! Some folks use super absobancy microfiber towels, others get a jumbo pack from Costco.
Pro Tips:

• Just wash frequently, they will stink.
  
• Do not use fabric softener with your workout gear. It will trap the bacteria and stay stanky.
  
• Let the towels dry before throwing them in the laundry bin. Throwing them in wet lets them fester….making everything in your bin smell like stale and pungent as fuck similar to a stale subway restaurant.
  
• Buy a multipack. You'll thank me later.
  

Workout Clothes

This is pretty obvious. But you don’t want to cycle in your Sunday best or an old pair of jeans. You’ll want something that is comfortable and light. But really anything will do as long as it is comfortable and breathable for you. We will have a WW on gender specific clothing in the future - this is just the basics to get started.
A lot of folks will recommend form fitting shorts/leggings such as cycling shorts. Loose fitting shorts can bunch up and be uncomfortable. Peloton classes have a lot of in the saddle and out of saddle moves which makes form fitting shorts/leggings a nice option because they move with you and do not get in the way. Cycling shorts can be either padded or unpadded. (We will discuss this later).
A lot of women will recommend lulu and athleta for premium options. But old navy, 90 degrees by reflex, and target have a lot of affordable options too.

Useful but not required gear

So you’ve got the bare minimum to ride. But you’re looking to optimize your setup and improve your ride experience.
What accessories or gear will improve my comfort, experience, or value:

• Heart rate monitors
  
• Butt protection
  
• Headphones and Speakers
  
• Weights
  
• Shelving
  

Heart rate monitors

So you do not need a HRM in order to ride your bike but it is a very useful metric to have. Most people, including myself, would argue it’s essential. We have a whole wiki page dedicated to HRM! You have lots of options - so lets discuss what they are.
All Peloton Hardware (aside from gen 1 tablets which are no longer functional) accept HRM that transmit over ANT+ or BLE. You have several options - smartwatches, chest straps, and arm bands.
First, lets state the obvious: Do not buy the Peloton HRM - it’s junk!! Seriously, it is terrible. Just do a search of the sub. I’m not going to waste any time discussing why but there are very few people here who have been able to use their Peloton HRM beyond a few months.
Popular HRM

• Scosche's Rhythm+ (and newer Rhythm24) the most popular for 10+ years, Polar's OH1 (and newer OH1+) and Wahoo's TICKR FIT easily round out the top-3 favs.
  
• Scosche Rhythm+ ($80): Armband. Multiple colors. Discounts frequently available from Scosche and various online retailers, especially around holidays. Highly popular in cycling circles for 10+ years due to extreme accuracy, near-flawless works-everytime reputation, and accurate optical HR sensor made by Valencell, a leader in optical HRM sensors also used by Polar and Suunto.
  
• Scosche Rhythm24 ($100): The latest version (first update in 10yrs) to Scosche's incredibly popular armband HRM. Adds some new features (NFC, memory) unlikely to benefit a Peloton user, but for activities off the bike is worth considering. Still an armband, still the same dead-accurate Valencell optical sensor, and comes in additional colors vs the Rhythm+. Some users complain battery life is lower (never quantified exactly how much) on this newer model.
  

Other Brands

• Polar OH1+ ($80): Armband, ANT+/BLE. Optical HRM.
  
• Wahoo TICKR FIT ($80): Armand, ANT+/BLE. Optical HRM.
  

Smartwatches
However, as we discussed last week - the Original Peloton Bike does not have NFC so it will not work with your Apple Watch. Right now, it only works with cycling classes on the Bike+. The Tread+ has NFC capability but the update hasn’t been pushed out to it yet.
If you want to use your AW with the Original Peloton Bike, you have a few options. BlueHeart was developed by a community member here - there is a free and paid version. However, some folks have had issues with it working consistently and found it frustrating.
You can read about using your AW to close your rings in the wiki here when using the Original Peloton Bike. There are also instructions on using your AW with your Bike+ in that section as well.
You can read more about AW and AW app here.
Garmin makes several smart watches such as the vivofit and fenix that are very popular. However, if you’re using one of these devices you need to put it in broadcast mode for your peloton bike to pick up the HRM. Please note, you cannot currently connect your bike to your garmin watch to collect your power profile and other metrics. There are others that are working on this, but it’s still in the works here
If anyone is using a fitbit device to broadcast - let me know how or if it works!
Let me know your favorite HRMs!

Butt protection

Lets be real, if you’re new to cycling your ass is going to hurt a lot at first. You’re gonna feel like your ass was violated in horrendous ways. But I promise you that it gets better over a few weeks. Be patient, sit on the bike properly, and it will get better. Wiki on butt protections
First, you need to make sure you’re sitting on the bike properly. Yes, you can and many new folks often do - sit on the bike wrong. You need to scoot your ass really far back so your sit bones are anchored on the widest part of the saddle. Unless you’re a scrawny, assless person, you should be able to grab a handful of ass off the back of the bike. Do not sit on your taint, balls, or vagina. Just don’t.
99% of the time - sitting on the bike properly and getting used to it will resolve the butt pains. It is rare that you would need to change out the saddle. The stock saddle will suffice for most people. Those who need to change out the saddle are folks with specific needs - for example those with overly wide or overly narrow sit bones (yes BONES not talking about tissue), those with recurrent prostate issues, or those with anatomy concerns that require noseless or cutout seats. We recommend seeing your local bike shop to get fitted for those seats.
Do not be conned into thinking you need one of those wide cushy cruiser seats. You will be doing yourself a grave disservice by swapping for one of those. You’re not toodling around some cute European city, you’re working out. These wide saddles are not meant for working out. They may initially be more comfortable, but they spread out the pressure and will cause hotspots elsewhere.
We also do not recommend buying a gel seat cover. They are a waste of money and can make your problems worse. You just need to suck it up for a few weeks and plant your ass appropriately. I promise. Why are gel seat covers shit? They are squishy and they encourage you to not sit on the bike properly which will spread out the distribution of weight to very sensitive areas. You will get hot spots. These covers also degrade rapidly and clump up - again distributing the weight to your much more sensitive bits. Many of these are gel...which isn’t very sanitary because it will absorb your ass sweat which will stink and harbor bacteria. A lot of folks, albeit not all, who have purchased these padded seat covers have stopped using them.
You’re truly better off toughing it out or investing in padded cycling pants or undies. The benefit of padded shorts is that they are form fitted, they move with you, and they don’t encourage bad form. There are several styles and options available. I would recommend going with gender specific styles as we have different anatomy.
There are many popular cycling brands that make padded things. REI has their house brand of padded cycling shorts and undies that get good reviews.
I am a lady and have a pair of Patagonia cycling shorts that I use for longer rides. I like them.
What are you guys wearing??

Headphones and Speakers

Yep, there is a wiki for headphones and speakers and boomboxes.
A lot of folks here use their AirPods, Jabras, or other bluetooth headphones. However, it’s not uncommon for folks to complain that they don’t get enough volume when using bluetooth headphones or speakers. Don’t you fret! We have a wiki page to tell you how to disable max volume limits under developer options!
Let me know what headphones and speakers y’all are using!

Weights

No, you don’t need the Peloton branded weights. Hell, even for cycling classes with arms you can forego it all together! But I’ll admit - the peloton weights are sexy.
Here is our wiki on weights.
Once upon a time, we lived in a world without a global pandemic that hasn’t forced many of us to quarantine, work from home, and didn’t completely destroy the global supply chain. Unfortunately, the demand for dumbbells has skyrocketed and they are tough to come by. Even when you can find them, the prices are jacked. Pre-pandemic, I was able to buy my dumbbells for $2.50 USD a piece. It was actually cheaper to buy them as individual dumbbells instead of a set. Alas, it is not those times anymore.
Don’t forget to check out your local resellers and market places! Places like play it again sports, good will, facebook marketplace, craiglist, etc will have some good deals but you’ll have to act fast.

Shelving

You know what is nice? Having a cute way to store your shit. I personally have a shelf next to the bike with those cute little storage bins.
What do you guys use?

I got a fizik R1 arione large saddle in a trade and its my favorite saddle so far. Unfortunately I damaged the carbon rails in a crash and is urgently looking for a replacement.
​
Lbs only have a R5 of the same model in stock. Im not too concerned about the weight penalty so will prolly skip the price premium I’m paying for the carbon. Im just worried it wont feel the same if it has a different padding on the saddle.
There is a used Arione Versus evo got a bargain on my craiglist as well. How does it compare to the Arione opens? Thanks

When I'm riding with bags it's always make my back hurt. XC rider... Usually I need to take multi tool, keys, mini pump, tubeless tire repair kit, phone, co2, chain link, tube (for emergency), and some snacks. Every time when I want to be without bags I feel like everything is gonna fall from my pockets. I know that you can put on the back of the saddle a mini bag but I usually put there only my tube because the bags are making sounds and I always feel like it's gonna fallI too. I've seen what enduro riders too but it seems to gnarly to me So if you know any products (sort of like a purse) I would like to hear.

I see a lot of posts from new smiths on this site, and various other forums, asking how to find an anvil, or asking for alternatives as they have given up after only a few weeks of searching. I thought I'd make a post to pass along my experience and advice to anyone who just can't seem to get one. Also, be aware of Murphy's law of anvil acquisition: As soon as you find a good one and bring it home, even if it took years of searching, you will be tripping over anvils ever after.
First a bit of why it seems so hard to find a good anvil these days. Before World War 2, just about every farm and village had an anvil. They were all over the place, many of them gathering dust in the back of a barn, or old machine shop. You couldn't give one away. Then came the scrap drives for the war. The government specifically targeted anvils and old farm equipment. There were posters showing how many grenades-rifles-bayonettes that an old farm anvil would help produce. They even held scrap parades with marching bands!
Many saw this as the perfect opportunity to get rid of that dusty old anvil they were always tripping over in the barn, and away they went. If it were not for the fact that some of those farm anvils were still being used in some capacity in the south and midwest, almost all of them would be long gone. No one thought much about it, as it was a pretty obsolete item, and hardly anyone other than a farmer saving money by doing his own maintenance was using them, the local blacksmith shop having gone the way of the buggy whip.
Interesting side point, one of the biggest purchasers and users of new anvils in World War 2 was the United States Navy, followed by the U.S. Army in Italy. The Navy used them for ship maintenance, and the Army for shoeing mules. After the war, this led to anvils becoming available again on the surplus market, but with so little interest, not all that many went into private hands, the rest being sold for scrap, or purchased at auction by scrap dealers rather than people wanting to use them.
Thus the anvil became pretty much a relic of by-gone days, relegated to cartoon coyotes, and the occasional farmer still knocking around on one in some outlying area somewhere. It looked like it would eventually fade away. Then came the 1970's, and the back to nature movement. With the renewed interest in subsistence farming, homesteading, and publications like "The Mother Earth News", old time crafts also saw a renewed interest. A lot of cottage industry was starting up, primarily in small crafts like candle making, macrame', sewing, weaving and spinning. In those days, there were literally tons of anvils still to be found at flea markets, antique shops, and Grandpa's old barn for the few who were venturing into this more intensive form of crafting. I have never come across the numbers to know what percentage of those old anvils went to the scrap drive, but there were so many to begin with, that the residual numbers kept the beginning smithing revival well supplied, along with forges, tongs, hardy tools, anything we could think of, a few we didn't, and a few things we still don't know what-the-heck they are.
As with any industry, money eventually got involved. And as usual the drive to make money blighted a good thing. Tool collectors began making the rounds, tool hoarders soon followed, hoping to make a quick buck off this new craze, and prices and availability of blacksmithing tools began to squeeze out the craftsmen (and women) who just wanted to learn the art for it's own sake. This last period started about 20 years ago, though the early signs were showing even in the 90's. Back in the early days of EBay, a good working anvil could be had for roughly $1.00 a pound, This slowly went up to about $2.00 a pound, and has leapt exponentially from there. Then the junk anvils started being sold, and the sellers demanded full quality price for them, raising the price of good anvils even further.
Of course with renewed demand came renewed production. To further confuse the new smith, stores like Harbor Freight began selling cheap Chinese made cast iron "anvils" and the big box stores followed suit, with imports from China and Russia. While there was the occasional rare good one sold in very limited runs, the bulk of these new imports were hardly more than anvil-shaped door stops. (They do work very well as doorstops, and small boat anchors, but I wouldn't expect to do any smithing on them.)
Some companies did start producing quality professional grade anvils, and they are still available new today, but at prices that are pretty much out of reach of the hobby smith. Those are easy to find at any blacksmith supply, this article is not about them.
Okay, you prattling old curmudgeon, how do I find a good working anvil at a reasonable price in the middle of this current mess? You ask. This is why you've put up with me so far, after all. Pull up a chair sonny, and I'll give it to you straight.
First of all, know this: there are still thousands of anvils out there gathering rust and dust. Don't let some slick salesman pull the wool over your eyes, they are not "rare", "one of a kind" or the "last one available". Where do you think these con men and hoarders are getting them? If they are so rare, why are there small warehouses full of them with EBay sellers demanding thousands of dollars and bragging about their inventory? Never fall for the hype, and don't let yourself get discouraged, or give in and pay too much for a junk anvil with the idea that "it can be repaired". (That will cost way more than just holding out for a good one to begin with, trust me, us old guys know stuff)
With that out of the way, let's start looking. Our first step is to tell everyone you meet about your interest in blacksmithing, and your search for a good anvil. There are a lot of people out there with an anvil in the back of grandpa's barn, that won't even remember it until you mention it. Not just friends and family, though that's a great place to start, make casual conversation standing in line at the store, mention it in conversation at church, or in the doctor's office. Hell, print it on a T-shirt if you have to. No one is a mind reader, they won't know you want one if you don't tell them. I once got an anvil as payment for some yard work, because I mentioned it in conversation with the lady who owned the house. It was in like-new condition. It was sitting, forgotten in the back of her barn, as her son had bought it before moving off to college and had lost any interest in it. See how painless that was?
Next let's look at farm auctions and estate sales. The further out in the boonies, the better. Why? Because those are not only where most anvils are, but also the closer you get to a city, the more the price goes up because they saw one on EBay for a gazzilion dollars. Some of the best old power tools I own came from estate sales in the middle of nowhere, some even were free because I was the only one who looked at it and they just wanted rid of it. So not just anvils come from this search, kiddo. Remember point one above, too. Ask, because no one wants to lug that heavy anvil out for the sale, but they will be happy to sell it to you and let you lug it off! Farm auctions often have anvils and other tools of the trade, but to be honest, can be hit or miss depending on if there are dealers there, or others who want it. The nice thing about bidding against dealers though, they have to make a profit off the resale, you don't. If you are trying to just get an anvil for use, and are nice, especially not bidding up other things and making them feel like you are being a nuisance, many dealers will not bid up the anvil when it comes around. Starting to see how communication is a key factor in this yet?
Flea markets, garage sales, and antique stores. Believe it or not, these are still good places to hunt. Especially, just like estate sales and auctions, the further out in the boonies you are, for the same reasons. I have come across numerous anvils at these, at good prices, over the years, when they are out in the country, rather than near or in a city. The little "antique malls" out in small farm towns tend to have them, and at better prices. Don't forget that you can politely haggle price, too.
Craiglist and EBay. Boo hiss! Back in the day, both of these were great resources for about anything, especially blacksmith goods. They have now both become the hunting grounds of con men and ripoff artists, and are generally to be avoided. If you are very patient, and fast, there are still deals to be had (try mis-spelling in your search, like avnil instead of anvil, it used to work great for finding bargains) but it is such a minefield that I frankly can only recommend to avoid them. EBay is the bane of anyone searching for any old tools these days, as people in flea markets especially will look it up on EBay to set prices, and get angry when no one wants to overpay for an item.
Lastly, and one that is surprisingly overlooked, is from other smiths. Attend meetings of your local ABANA or other smithing group. Go to historical re-enactments, and talk to the smith, or someone with a trade blanket with smithed goods. Go to craft fairs. Just in case you may have somehow missed the point, talk to people! Especially people in the hobby! You'll not only get leads on an anvil, but learn more about smithing, and could even (heaven forbid in this day and age) make friends!
The biggest key to finding anything is patience. The biggest horror stories I hear of people being ripped off is that they got impatient, and went for the first one they found. Never be afraid to turn down a bad deal.
Okay, you finally find one. How do you know if it is one worth buying, and how much should you pay? Let's start with what makes a good anvil, or even a great one.
Bigger is not always better. Whoa there! Did I really just say that? Yep. Everyone dreams of the big blacksmith or even bigger railroad anvil, Wile E. Coyote and his 500 pounder setting off into the sunset. But what size do you really need? One thing's for sure, bigger = more expensive. An anvil is just a mass for your work to react against, shaped in a way that is convenient for shaping metal. The more mass an anvil has, the more resistance it provides to the force of a hammer blow, and the larger the hammer that can be used to provide that force. There comes a point that an anvil can become too large to be practical.
The "average" farm and farrier anvil is 70 - 150 lbs. This is because it's intended use is for small projects such as shoeing a horse, and for the size of the metal being worked, it provides all the mass that is needed for that work. The lighter weight also makes it more practical for transport, especially in the case of a farrier, who often has to go to his client's farm to do his work. Unless you are Andre the Giant, a large anvil is going to be a real chore to lug around, and will sap your strength and energy needed to get the work done when you get there. It also happens to be the size of project the average hobby smith is going to be working on. Not many hobby smiths are forging their own hammers, or building a steam locomotive. (If you are, I want pictures of that project!) A common farm anvil is plenty for making hinges, S hooks, trammels, etc. that are the bread-and-butter of the hobby smith. The added bonus is that these are still the most common and less expensive anvils you will come across. A happy situation to be sure!
Those 300+lb anvils from old blacksmith shops are there because the old smiths worked on bigger projects often enough to warrant them, and were often used with assistants swinging sledge hammers, not a situation a hobby smith will find himself in often, and frankly if you were, would not want to risk your very expensive big anvil to do so. I am not saying that if you luck into one of those large anvils at a great price, (in usable condition, see below) not to jump on it, but don't pass up a good anvil to hold out for one that is much more than you need.
Those cast iron Chinese "anvils" are junk. I do not expect this to be too controversial of a statement, but I know there will "that guy" who will argue otherwise. Let him argue, it's not up for debate in my book. A proper anvil has a hardened face, made from steel, to resist dings and nicks from working metal. The body of some quality anvils were made from cast iron, some from malleable iron, but the face is always hardened plate. You want an anvil with a flat face and clean edges. Some "saddling" ( a gentle curve worn into the surface from use) is acceptable, but very little. Avoid any anvil missing the face plate, or with large pieces of it broken away, and/or heavily chipped edges. Yes, they can be repaired, but if you need this guide, you are not the guy who can do it. Also avoid any anvil with the horn broken off, (a common result of a miss with a sledge hammer at some point) or a broken heel (same). Both are sure signs of an abused anvil that likely have other hidden issues as well, plus you will not have full use of an anvil in that condition. That horn and heel are there for a reason! Some nicks and dings are allowable, but avoid any that are badly pitted or otherwise rough. Those marks will transfer to any work you do on them.
So you found a good one, clean face, crisp edges, not bashed up or cast iron junk, anything else I should know? Yep, let's give it a little test. There is an old wive's tale that any anvil should ring. Some should, others shouldn't. Fisher made a lot of anvils, and they don't ring, due to their construction. It was even part of their advertising back in the day. So ringing isn't a criteria you can fully rely on. It pays to study up a bit and learn which ones should ring, though, for those it can be a valid test. A good general test is to take a steel ball bearing, and test the rebound. A "live" anvil will make a ball bearing bounce back when dropped on it, a "dead" anvil won't bounce it, or will have a greatly reduced bounce. Now I'm not saying to throw that ball bearing at it like a baseball pitcher in the last inning of the World Series, there tiger! Just a drop from about a foot up with maybe a little push behind at most it is enough. You are looking for that rebound, and it's going to tell you how much rebound your hammer is going to have when working on it.
It looks good, tested good, now let's get down to brass tacks, how much should you pay? As I mentioned in my less than thorough history of anvil availability above, prices just seem to keep going up. As I write this the "average" price for a good working farm/farrier anvil seems to be in the neighborhood of about $2.00-$3.00 a pound, the per pound price rising with the weight of the anvil, due to availability issues. That is a starting point that allows you to estimate value based on size, it's not set in stone. Some ares of the country still have plenty of anvils, some are still anvil-poor, and prices will reflect that. Regardless, do not pay "collector's" prices, you are looking for a tool, not a museum piece. Some maker's names are rare, many are not as rare as they are made out to be, and the only interest you really have in the manufacturer is to make sure you are buying a quality anvil, not some unrealistic "investment" in an antique. Let the collectors overpay for a name. Large anvils are skyrocketing in price, another reason to avoid them as a hobby smith. A 300+lb anvil by a quality maker, such as a Peter Wright or Fisher can fetch over $2000 in some areas. I personally think that's just crazy, but the market is what it is.
Now, as a reward for bearing with me for so long, I am going to throw in a little bonus information for you. Rust sucks (No, that's not the bonus, derned kids these days.....) but it's easy to prevent and light rust should not stop you from buying an otherwise nice anvil. Leave the heavily rusted ones to us old pros, but for light to moderate surface rust, you can clean it right up with a wire brush. NOT a grinder or a heavy wire wheel, just a wire brush, steel wool, etc. can work wonders for an old anvil, when used with a light touch and some patience. The best oil to use while doing it is also the best oil to use to prevent it. Mineral oil. Yep, regular old mineral oil from any pharmacy or even the dollar store works as a great rust preventative for guns and tools. Wet it up with mineral oil, brush off the rust, clean it up good with an old rag, then reapply the mineral oil, and it will stop rust even in Florida or Washington state.
That's about it, I hope this is of some help to those who are just getting started in this great hobby (and career if you're of the right mindset) and I hope it puts some of the questions to rest for a little while.

Hey all! Let's start off with some info: I'd consider myself to be an intermediate rider; I've only been riding for two summers, but I try to take it somewhat seriously during the months my climate (and college) allows me to. I'm looking for a bike I can use for everything road-related: exercising, getting around town, maybe eventually getting into some road race type things. I ride on paved trails and loose gravel trails. Having room for wider tires would be nice but isn't essential, I've been riding on 25s without much issue. I live in Wisconsin and have my fair share of hills, although it's not mountainous or anything.
I've been riding a 2005 Trek 1500 WSD that was gifted to me by my neighbor and have come to a crossroads of sorts. It's a little small for me (I'm a man who's a little under 6'), but I've adjusted it as best I can to fit, and it's fairly comfortable. Before next summer, I'd like to upgrade my ride, either by putting some some money into my Trek in the form of a professional fit and some small component upgrades (definitely brakes, maybe a saddle) or purchasing a new bike altogether.
My wishlist for a new bike is a carbon frame, 105 components and hydraulic disc brakes. I wouldn't be opposed to compromising in any of those areas as long as it could serve as a platform for future upgrades. I'd definitely like to keep it under $2000 USD, although under 1500 would be ideal. This leaves me with some options, the Defy Advanced 2 and Contend SL1 are both appealing. I'm also not opposed to scouring Craiglist hoping to score a deal, although most of the stuff in my area seems horribly overpriced.
What's my best course of action?

Craiglist Austin listing
For sale: a 2008 Scott Addict R2 - 56 cm, full carbon, full 2x10 Dura-Ace. This is a hill climber's dream bike - less than 16 pounds with pedals and bottle cages! I'm looking for $1300 OBO. New MSRP on this bike is $5499. There aren't many lighter bikes out there - especially at the price!
Images coming - pending a wheel and saddle swap.
Minor scratch on top tube - purely cosmetic. Else, the bike is in nearly perfect shape! This bike has been ridden less than 1000 miles and only 200 miles on the chain and most recent tune-up, which is in excellent condition (only been lubed with Squirt dry wax lubricant). The bike was purchased new and has been with me as the only owner of this bicycle. Its serial number is registered by me through the Austin Police Department bike registration program.

Hello, I would like to purchase a cheap racing bike online. Why?

1. I am a graduate student and funds are always low.
2. I live in a small town and there are not a lot of craiglist postings.
3. From online research, I gather that there are three cheap ways to improve speed: nice set of 25mm tires, tighter clothing and aggressive riding position. In contrast, lightweight fiber frames are very expensive and the returns in speed to them are small (for US Cat 5).
4. Most cheap beginner bikes, like the Giant Contend, are more of an endurance geometry. So, I need to buy used to get something that is aggressive and cheap.

There is always risk of getting the wrong size. I found a retailer that offers 30 day returns, but I would obviously prefer not to pay for extra shipping or deal with the hassle. So, I need to get it right the first time. I did a fit calculator from Competitive cyclist:
My body measurement in inches are:

• Inseam: 33
• Trunk: 25
• Forearm: 14
• Arm: 27
• Thigh: 24
• Lower Leg: 22
• Sternal Notch: 61
• Total Body Height: 73

For the pro fit the website recommends:

• Seat Tube Range c–c: 54.3 - 54.8 cm
• Seat Tube Range c–t: 56 - 56.5 cm
• Top Tube Length: 55.7 - 56.1 cm
• Stem Length: 11.2 - 11.8 cm
• BB–Saddle Position: 75.1 - 77.1 cm
• Saddle Handlebar: 54.3 - 54.9 cm
• Saddle Setback: 5 - 5.4 cm

So, it seems like the 56cm frame is appropriate (more simple measurements based on height put me into a 58cm). What I find difficult to understand is that a lot of the bike measurements on competitive cyclist are not provided by the bike dealers. Any ideas or suggestions? Thanks!

Helping a co worker find his Yellow Cycling Saddle bag that feel off his commuting cycle on his way home from work Thursday night. He was riding the E-470 trail to the Cherry Creek Trail south of the reservoir then the Piney Creek Trail. If you have any information please contact him. Thank you. Craiglist URL

Helping a co worker find his Yellow Cycling Saddle bag that feel off his commuting cycle on his way home from work last night. He was riding the E-470 trail to the Cherry Creek Trail south of the reservoir then the Piney Creek Trail. If you have any information please contact him. Thank you. Craiglist URL

I'm new to cycling and in search of a hybrid style bike to start off (open to road bikes too) I'm going trail riding and some on the road. My place is hilly too. I'm about 5" 11 190llbs. I've gone to my LBS and got saddled in a 20" hybrid. My inseam is measured to about 30". After craiglisting for a while, I have now stumbled upon these two:
Gary Fisher Zebrano adult hybrid bike
Hybrid Mountain Bike Schwinn Sierra
I'm also being offered a hybrid cannondale adventure 400 in excellent like new condition size large and perfect for you.. it has front suspension and seat post suspension...for $150,I'll send pics later when he sends them.
Which would you go for? I'm open all ears! Thank you in advance!

Bike description: road bike, frame Gravity 54cm, groupset shimano 105 10 speed. I dont have any good pictures of the bike. http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/gravity/comp22_road-bikes.htm. In the link it is the same bike as the one on the right just an older model. Also a bontrager stem and a different saddle than original. I am going to browse craiglist to see if someone is trying to sell it. If anyone has any helpful info please let me know. Much appreciated. Edit: to be clear I live in Ontario, California, USA sorry for the confusion. Edit: I have contacted the police and got a police report. I also contacted my renters insurance company.

This would be my first road bike even though I've rode road bikes in the past. I'm primarily looking for something that will last me awhile and make me want to take it out.
Here are my choices...
A slightly used 2012 supersix 6 with mostly ultegra components for $1300. stock parts are frame, fork,headset, bb, saddle and bars. Ultegra parts are levers, brakes, rear der, front der is 105. Crank is sram aluminum no series name but weight is pretty respectable. Stem is a new Thompson elite x2 130mm, post is a PRO vibe 7s. Wheels are just basic from previous bike(diamond back podium w/ultegra). Hubs seem good quality. craiglist
a brand new 2015 caad10 105 5 for $1546.99 plus tax. but I get lifetime adjustments at the LBS and the warranty that comes with new Cannondales. Or perhaps a Synapse?
Or just waiting for the new CAAD12.
I've posted this on whichbike but did not get much help...

For the past couple of months I have been saving to get a entry level Road bike and was looking for suggestions as to which bike I should get ? Following are the details as suggested from the side bar:

• Your level of experience with cycling - Beginner, I have never owned a bike and this will be my 1st bike.
• What's your price range, and have you considered second hand? - My price range for the bike alone would be from $900 - $1300. I have looked at a few second hand bikes off of craiglist but would prefer to get a first hand bike.
• What's your intention with the bike ? - To start with the goal is currently limited only to fitness.
• How far will you be riding, and how often? Not exactly sure about this but I plan to join some groups that have like 20 ish mile (one-way) rides, so I would say 40 - 50 miles to begin with.
• Riding conditions: Mostly on roads, with light to moderate traffic.
• I live in Austin, TX (78729)

So I visited a local bike shop to check for my size and try a few different bikes out. I am 5'11 and weigh 184 lb and the general idea I got was 56 would be an approximate size with some additional fitting for saddle and handle.
Now I tried the following bikes out : * 14 Specialized Allez Sport (Approx $1000 ) - I love the look of the bike and I really want to get this one but the problem with this is that during short test rides itself I noticed that I am putting some stress on my elbows and felt the need to sorta stretch the upper body quite a lot. The bike shop said they would recommend not getting this as it doesn't seem the right fit for me but If I really want this they could try a few adjustments with the handle bar to make it fit better (but they said they can't guarantee that this would workout perfectly) * 14 Specialized Secteur Sport (Approx $1000) - The difference between this and the allez was noticeable. The ride was smoother and quite comfortable and not as snappier (I mean the handling) * 14 Trek Domane 2.0 (Approx $1200 (Closeout bike)) - The ride and comfort was similar to the Secteur sport or at-least I couldn't tell the difference but I absolutely love the the freaking color scheme etc of this bike. * 14 Specialized Secteur Elite (Approx $1100 (Closeout bike)) - Now I have not tried this bike yet but the bike shop suggested I try this one before I decide anything.
Please help me decide between one of these bikes, I am also open to suggestion for any other brands or models you think I should look into. Please let me know if I have missed out on any of the details and finally apologies for the long post.

I was just browsing the craiglists as I am known to do, and this question has been nagging me:
Every post that mentions "female owned, female operated," etc. says that like its a benefit. I'm not saying it necessarily isn't, but why should I care the sex of the previous owner of a bike.
Do they think that I will get off on riding the same saddle as them?
Am I to assume that because they are female they didn't ride it "hard" like a man would?
And if these sellers want me to apply female stereotypes then should I assume that they didn't keep up with maintenance like a man would?
Any opinions? I'm really interested to hear if anyone would rather look at a bike that has been "female owned."