Hello all, I'm here looking for some help in finding my Dad's former 1967 Chevrolet Camaro RS Convertible. My father sold the car in the lead-up to my younger sister being born. With one young child running around and another on the way, he had to make the tough call to sell what was his prized possession; and he's been kicking himself ever since. Now that we can see the finish line approaching with our current project, I would love to get him back into his baby.
We do not have any paperwork and thus no VIN for the car but we have detailed info on the car until it was sold in 2006 by the person my father had sold it to (located in Grimsby, Ontario, Canada).
The car was built in the 2nd week of December, 1966 in Norwood, Ohio and was originally sold to Lynda Earl(e) in Welland, Ontario, Canada. The options were as follows:

• Finished in Tahoe Turquoise with a black rag top and white pinstripes.
  
• The car was finished without a bumblebee stripe
  
• 275 horsepower engine option
  
• Deluxe Interior (Black)
  
• Powerglide Automatic
  
• When the car was sold in 2006, it had an aftermarket antenna located in the rear bumper as opposed to the quarter panel
  
• Full documentation was with the car when my dad sold it
  

Any information would be greatly appreciated by myself and my father whether it lead to its whereabouts or just knowing that it's still out there somewhere. We have some pictures of the car at my dad's place, I'll upload some of them once I get my hands on them.
Cheers everyone :)

Hello all, I'm here looking for some help in finding my Dad's former 1967 Chevrolet Camaro RS Convertible. My father sold the car in the lead-up to my younger sister being born. With one young child running around and another on the way, he had to make the tough call to sell what was his prized possession; and he's been kicking himself ever since. Now that we can see the finish line approaching with our current project, I would love to get him back into his baby.
We do not have any paperwork and thus no VIN for the car but we have detailed info on the car until it was sold in 2006 by the person my father had sold it to (located in Grimsby, Ontario, Canada).
The car was built in the 2nd week of December, 1966 in Norwood, Ohio and was originally sold to Lynda Earl(e) in Welland, Ontario, Canada. The options were as follows:

• Finished in Tahoe Turquoise with a black rag top and white pinstripes.
  
• The car was finished without a bumblebee stripe
  
• 275 horsepower engine option
  
• Deluxe Interior (Black)
  
• Powerglide Automatic
  
• When the car was sold in 2006, it had an aftermarket antenna located in the rear bumper as opposed to the quarter panel
  
• Full documentation was with the car when my dad sold it
  

Any information would be greatly appreciated by myself and my father whether it lead to its whereabouts or just knowing that it's still out there somewhere. We have some pictures of the car at my dad's place, I'll upload some of them once I get my hands on them.
Cheers everyone :)

Welcome to my Big Sell and Trade Thread! Where we hopefully haggle our way to a deal!
First off let's talk about deals!
All purchases of $20+ GET FREE SHIPPING and the more you buy the more you save!
^{All trades receive free shipping.}
Purchasing 2 items gets you 5% OFF your total!
Purchasing 3 items gets you 7% OFF your total!!
And finally purchasing 4 or more items gets you 10% OFF your order!!!
Payment accepted only through PayPal.
Payment/Trade is needed in full before an item(s) will ship.
Pictures and additional details of items can be supplied upon request.
Shipping to the continental US only. All sales/trades ship on Fridays.
All sales/trades are final, NO REFUNDS!
All right let's get to the figures!

Transformers Classics

Deluxe Class Optimus Prime, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $19.99

Transformers Universe 2.0

Ultra Class Hardhead, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $27.99
Scout Class Scattorshot, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $4.99
Scout Class Ransack, Figure Only, Missing Weapon w/ Cyber Key, Good Condition - $5.99
Scout Class Hardtop, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $8.99
Scout Class Clocker, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $8.99
Scout Class Repugnus, Figure Only, Missing Tail/Weapon and Cyber Key, Very Good Condition - $2.99

Transformers Combiner Wars

Legends Class Decepticon Blackjack, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $7.99
Voyager Class Sky Lynx, Complete in Box, Like New - $34.99

Transformers Animated

Legends Class Optimus Prime, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $11.99
Deluxe Class Bumblebee, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $17.99
Deluxe Class Sentinel Prime, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $14.99
Deluxe Class Blurr, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $19.99
Deluxe Class Megatron, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $12.99
Deluxe Class Stealth Lockdown, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $14.99
Voyager Class Grimlock, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $24.99
Voyager Class Optimus Prime, Figure Only, Axe Missing Red Bar, Very Good Condition - $29.99

MOVIE-VERSE

Movie 1 Deluxe Class Classic Camaro Bumblebee, Figure Only, Complete, Good Condition - $18.99
RotF Deluxe Class Sideswipe, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $19.99
RotF Deluxe Class Bumblebee, Figure Only, Missing Shoulder Guards & Missle, Very Good Condition - $15.99
RotF Deluxe Class Ratchet, Figure Only, Missing Blaster w/ Missile, Very Good Condition - $9.99
RotF Deluxe Class Dirge, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $11.99
RotF Human Alliance Bumblebee, Figure Only, Missing Sam Witwicky Figurine, Features Peaugh's Screen Accurate Leg Mod, Very Good Condition - $29.99
RotF Human Alliance Skids, Figure Only, Missing Mikaela and Arcee Figurines, Very Good Condition - $39.99
DotM Voyager Class Shockwave, Figure Only, Complete, Very Good Condition - $29.99

Video Games

This link will take you to my large list of Video Games for sale on /GameSale.

WILLING TO TRADE AS WELL, LIST OF WANTS BELOW.

CHUG:

Transformers Reveal The Shield Deluxe Class Wreckgar
Transformers Legends LG07 Leader Class Jetfire
Transformers Combiner Wars Legends Class Powerglide
Transformers Titans Return Legends Class Brawn
Transformers Power of the Primes Prime Master Micronus
Transformers Power of the Primes Prime Master Vector Prime
Transformers Power of the Primes Prime Master Alpha Trion
Transformers Power of the Primes Deluxe Class Punch/Counterpunch
Transformers Siege WFC-S1 Battle Master Firedrive
Transformers Siege WFC-S11 Voyager Class Optimus Prime
Transformers Siege WFC-S21 Deluxe Class Ironhide

ANIMATED:

Transformers Animated Legends Class Bumblebee
Transformers Animated Legends Class Prowl
Transformers Animated Activators Optimus Prime
Transformers Animated Activators Autobot Ratchet

STUDIO SERIES:

Transformers Studio Series SS-29 Deluxe Class DotM Sideswipe
Transformers Studio Series SS-32 Voyager Class MV1 Optimus Prime
Transformers Studio Series SS-35 Leader Class RotF Jetfire
Transformers Studio Series SS-38 Voyager Class BB Optimus Prime

BITS & PIECES:

Left Hip/Waist Piece from Transformers Reveal the Shield Deluxe Class Special Ops Jazz
Set of Energon Swords from Transformers Studio Series SS-05 Voyager Class RotF Optimus Prime
Gun from Transformers Studio Series SS-16 Deluxe Class DotM Autobot Ratchet

Hello everyone! Being well into winter in Colorado, I have finally begun tearing down my Chevelle for what I am calling Project Mordor.
I will be taking this car... http://i.imgur.com/xtTPrlr.jpg
...A 1967 Chevelle Malibu 4-Door (originally gold on gold) and turning it into my dream car that I have been planning for going on 8 years now. The drivetrain will be a 6.6L Duramax Turbodiesel (LBZ) out of a 2006-2007 GMC or Chevy HD truck. Due to its size, I will not be using the stock Allison transmission, instead opting for a built 4L80E (every Chevy transmission, including a Powerglide, will bolt right up!).
The first few steps, that will also take the most time, are:

• Strip the car and clean every reused part (I hate working with dirty parts)
  
• Take the body off the frame.
  
• Box the center section of the frame and reinforce everything.
  
• Design and install custom roll cage. I will be attempting (if safe) a double hoop in the roof, so the rear is a relative mirror of the front. It is very, very important to me to retain seating in the rear. Both bench seats will be removed because of safety. I'll be sad to see them go as I've never had this unique of a driving experience of a car in my life. Plan is to replace both benches with 4 racing seats, but rear racing seats may look hideous. I plan to install and extend a center console all the way to the rear to hopefully make it look better. 3 point racing harnesses throughout, but provisions for 4+ point in the future if I want.
  
• Minitub if needed. I would like to get ~275/xx/18's all the way around. I am going for a square setup for better rotations, limit further contributing to understeer, and for a future plans.
  
• Smooth the fire wall and recess if needed. A Duramax is the same depth and width as a big block Chevy, it is just taller because of both the depth of the oil pans and the amount of accessories on top. I want to clear up more space in the front because it is going to be really tight with all the coolers and radiators up there, so I plan on having to notch back the center section of the fire wall 2" or so. I already have to widen the transmission tunnel a little for the 4L80E to be serviceable (not nearly as much as the Allison), so this is the best time to recess it. It will allow me to both center the weight in the car better, as well as lower the engine down because of extra oil pan clearance.
  
• New suspension. I am leaning towards air bags, but haven't made a decision yet. New upper and lower front control arms will be absolutely necessary, and I may be "remote" mounting the shocks because of future clearance issues.
  
• New rearend. Haven't decided which yet. Gearing will probably be very high, so the low 2.xx's.
  
• Install new InfinityBox wiring system. These things, while expensive, are so damn cool and will really clear up a lot of headaches later. Not to mention they are incredible capable wiring systems. http://infinitybox.com/
  
• Dakota Digital VHX gauge cluster. The only extra gauges I will need will be boost, transmission temp, and pyrometer. It's possible to have the display on the cluster show these, but I would have to push a button to scroll through each of them, they don't have a dedicated gauge. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=798/category_id=424/mode=prod/prd798.htm
  
• Reuse truck radiatointercooler, or do split radiators if it improves space. Mounting at an angle with electric motors is also an option.
  
• Battery bank moved to rear.
  
• ~40 gallon fuel cell in the trunk. The trunk on this thing is really, really massive, so there is plenty of room for a low and wide fuel cell that won't affect my ground clearance. Tuned diesel trucks can get into the mid 25's for MPG already. Rough napkin math is you gain 3-5 MPG per every 1,000 lbs of weight you shed. The Chevelle is already 4,000 lbs lighter that the HD truck, minus how much weight I add beefing up the frame, adding the roll cage, etc.. Even conservatively at 2 MPG/1k lbs, I will be at 32 MPG. This doesn't take into account much lower rolling resistance, custom tunes, much better aerodynamics, etc. My goal is to break 40mpg (this type of project has already hit 36-38 really consistently), or hit the limit of the Duramax MPG, whichever comes first. Diesels can do insanely low idling fuel ratios, I think 40+ is well within reach.
  
• Turbo inlet was originally going to be through one of the headlight openings like the Chevelle in the link below, but I like the look of 4 headlight too much to do that. I will instead find, or make, a scoop to pull from under the center section of the bumper, around where the hood latch is.
  
• Exhaust routing TBD. It will be 4-5" from the collector back, so it may be routed through the crossmember. May end up double-mufflering it if it is a single outlet, depending on what it sounds like. Going with Magnaflows as I had them on my last Camaro and loved them. Quite a big difference than my multiple sets of Dronemasters.
  
• Keeping the crank windows, yay! They, along with the wing window, just feel right.
  
• Rebuilding stock A/C with better parts. Not having to buy a VintageAir setup frees up a lot of money to be spent elsewhere.
  
• I am fairly sure I will be leaving the stock interior gold. It is in really, really good shape (no scratches, only package tray is faded, seals are great), and I still want it to look like the Chevelle I love. Other than the tires and nice paint, and sounding off, I want this car to be a sleeper as much as possible, inside and out.
  
• Color will either matte blue, matte black, or Artesian Turquoise (old Chevy color) inspired by this amazing car: http://image.adam.automotive.com/f/40715507/sucp-1301-01-19685-chevy-chevelle-sport-sedan-front-three-quarter-view
  

Other than small custom details here and there, that is the bulk of the project.
I'm fully expecting to hear here what I have been for years researching this project, so let me get it out of the way to save some of you the trouble.
"DIESEL IS SACRILEGIOUS!!!"
"YOU'RE RUINING A CLASSIC YOU IDIOT!!!"
"YOU SHOULD JUST SCRAP IT ANYWAY, ITS A 4 DOOR NOT A 2 DOOR!!!" - Which is it, a classic or a 4-door piecer?
"THIS ISN'T WHAT HOTRODDING IS ABOUT!!!"
"I HATE THIS IDEA AND I HATE YOU!!"
"THIS IS BAD AND YOU SHOULD FEEL BAD!!!"
Now that that is out of the way, on to why I am doing this. As of right now, I have taken 4 rolling chassis and turned them into street legal, moderately powerful (most horsepower was 425/450 ftlbs), muscle cars. For the last 8 years I have wanted to build my dream car, and each time I went through the options, and believe me I went through all of them thousands of times, I kept coming back to diesel. I wanted uniqueness, difficulty, MPG, power (360hp/650ftlbs stock, 500hp/850ftlbs with a "mild" tune, outrageous in a 3k lb car.), and it is a project that I will get to complete with my brothers and Dad, maybe the last one we get to do together. I have no concern for resell value, if I did I would have gotten a 2 door. I've had coupes, and for this, I wanted something I could actually bring people along in.
I have a long (hopefully less than 2 year) road ahead of me, and I couldn't be more excited. Once I tackle the diesel, there's nothing stopping me from adding the electric FWD to turn this into an Turbodiesel AWD '67 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4-Door. ;)
Thanks for reading everyone, and I look forward to keeping you all irregularly updated!
-Liquidbeaver

Hello everyone! Being well into winter in Colorado, I have finally begun tearing down my Chevelle for what I am calling Project Mordor.
I will be taking this car... http://i.imgur.com/xtTPrlr.jpg
...A 1967 Chevelle Malibu 4-Door (originally gold on gold) and turning it into my dream car that I have been planning for going on 8 years now. The drivetrain will be a 6.6L Duramax Turbodiesel (LBZ) out of a 2006-2007 GMC or Chevy HD truck. Due to its size, I will not be using the stock Allison transmission, instead opting for a built 4L80E (every Chevy transmission, including a Powerglide, will bolt right up!).
The first few steps, that will also take the most time, are:

• Strip the car and clean every reused part (I hate working with dirty parts)
  
• Take the body off the frame.
  
• Box the center section of the frame and reinforce everything.
  
• Design and install custom roll cage. I will be attempting (if safe) a double hoop in the roof, so the rear is a relative mirror of the front. It is very, very important to me to retain seating in the rear. Both bench seats will be removed because of safety. I'll be sad to see them go as I've never had this unique of a driving experience of a car in my life. Plan is to replace both benches with 4 racing seats, but rear racing seats may look hideous. I plan to install and extend a center console all the way to the rear to hopefully make it look better. 3 point racing harnesses throughout, but provisions for 4+ point in the future if I want.
  
• Minitub if needed. I would like to get ~275/xx/18's all the way around. I am going for a square setup for better rotations, limit further contributing to understeer, and for a future plans.
  
• Smooth the fire wall and recess if needed. A Duramax is the same depth and width as a big block Chevy, it is just taller because of both the depth of the oil pans and the amount of accessories on top. I want to clear up more space in the front because it is going to be really tight with all the coolers and radiators up there, so I plan on having to notch back the center section of the fire wall 2" or so. I already have to widen the transmission tunnel a little for the 4L80E to be serviceable (not nearly as much as the Allison), so this is the best time to recess it. It will allow me to both center the weight in the car better, as well as lower the engine down because of extra oil pan clearance.
  
• New suspension. I am leaning towards air bags, but haven't made a decision yet. New upper and lower front control arms will be absolutely necessary, and I may be "remote" mounting the shocks because of future clearance issues.
  
• New rearend. Haven't decided which yet. Gearing will probably be very high, so the low 2.xx's.
  
• Install new InfinityBox wiring system. These things, while expensive, are so damn cool and will really clear up a lot of headaches later. Not to mention they are incredible capable wiring systems. http://infinitybox.com/
  
• Dakota Digital VHX gauge cluster. The only extra gauges I will need will be boost, transmission temp, and pyrometer. It's possible to have the display on the cluster show these, but I would have to push a button to scroll through each of them, they don't have a dedicated gauge. http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=798/category_id=424/mode=prod/prd798.htm
  
• Reuse truck radiatointercooler, or do split radiators if it improves space. Mounting at an angle with electric motors is also an option.
  
• Battery bank moved to rear.
  
• ~40 gallon fuel cell in the trunk. The trunk on this thing is really, really massive, so there is plenty of room for a low and wide fuel cell that won't affect my ground clearance. Tuned diesel trucks can get into the mid 25's for MPG already. Rough napkin math is you gain 3-5 MPG per every 1,000 lbs of weight you shed. The Chevelle is already 4,000 lbs lighter that the HD truck, minus how much weight I add beefing up the frame, adding the roll cage, etc.. Even conservatively at 2 MPG/1k lbs, I will be at 32 MPG. This doesn't take into account much lower rolling resistance, custom tunes, much better aerodynamics, etc. My goal is to break 40mpg (this type of project has already hit 36-38 really consistently), or hit the limit of the Duramax MPG, whichever comes first. Diesels can do insanely low idling fuel ratios, I think 40+ is well within reach.
  
• Turbo inlet was originally going to be through one of the headlight openings like the Chevelle in the link below, but I like the look of 4 headlight too much to do that. I will instead find, or make, a scoop to pull from under the center section of the bumper, around where the hood latch is.
  
• Exhaust routing TBD. It will be 4-5" from the collector back, so it may be routed through the crossmember. May end up double-mufflering it if it is a single outlet, depending on what it sounds like. Going with Magnaflows as I had them on my last Camaro and loved them. Quite a big difference than my multiple sets of Dronemasters.
  
• Keeping the crank windows, yay! They, along with the wing window, just feel right.
  
• Rebuilding stock A/C with better parts. Not having to buy a VintageAir setup frees up a lot of money to be spent elsewhere.
  
• I am fairly sure I will be leaving the stock interior gold. It is in really, really good shape (no scratches, only package tray is faded, seals are great), and I still want it to look like the Chevelle I love. Other than the tires and nice paint, and sounding off, I want this car to be a sleeper as much as possible, inside and out.
  
• Color will either matte blue, matte black, or Artesian Turquoise (old Chevy color) inspired by this amazing car: http://image.adam.automotive.com/f/40715507/sucp-1301-01-19685-chevy-chevelle-sport-sedan-front-three-quarter-view
  

Other than small custom details here and there, that is the bulk of the project.
I'm fully expecting to hear here what I have been for years researching this project, so let me get it out of the way to save some of you the trouble.
"DIESEL IS SACRILEGIOUS!!!"
"YOU'RE RUINING A CLASSIC YOU IDIOT!!!"
"YOU SHOULD JUST SCRAP IT ANYWAY, ITS A 4 DOOR NOT A 2 DOOR!!!" - Which is it, a classic or a 4-door piecer?
"THIS ISN'T WHAT HOTRODDING IS ABOUT!!!"
"I HATE THIS IDEA AND I HATE YOU!!"
"THIS IS BAD AND YOU SHOULD FEEL BAD!!!"
Now that that is out of the way, on to why I am doing this. As of right now, I have taken 4 rolling chassis and turned them into street legal, moderately powerful (most horsepower was 425/450 ftlbs), muscle cars. For the last 8 years I have wanted to build my dream car, and each time I went through the options, and believe me I went through all of them thousands of times, I kept coming back to diesel. I wanted uniqueness, difficulty, MPG, power (360hp/650ftlbs stock, 500hp/850ftlbs with a "mild" tune, outrageous in a 3k lb car.), and it is a project that I will get to complete with my brothers and Dad, maybe the last one we get to do together. I have no concern for resell value, if I did I would have gotten a 2 door. I've had coupes, and for this, I wanted something I could actually bring people along in.
I have a long (hopefully less than 2 year) road ahead of me, and I couldn't be more excited. Once I tackle the diesel, there's nothing stopping me from adding the electric FWD to turn this into an Turbodiesel AWD '67 Chevrolet Chevelle Malibu 4-Door. ;)
Thanks for reading everyone, and I look forward to keeping you all irregularly updated!
-Liquidbeaver

I did this for my own use, but I thought I would share. I started with this list from dragstuff.com I haven't done much to the list. I reorganized it a little and removed all the suggestions about carbon fiber.
Free
Scrape & Remove Putty from floorboard joints.
Remove Sound Deadener and seam sealer from under carpet, trunk, rear hatch.
Remove door crash bars.
Remove excess wiring
Even Stock Fiberglass hoods can be modified to save weight - "I used an angle grinder, Dremel tool and diegrinder and removed all of the substructure attached to the underlayment of the hood. The hood shakes a little at 90mph or better, but it filled up a trash bag full of fiberglass and metal that weighted 30lbs according to my scales"
On older cars there can be an amazing amount of rocks, dirt and other misc. crap built up inside rocker panels, behind the firewall in the trunk and behind the wheelwells. Difficult to remove, but you may find 2 lbs or more of dirt/rocks/who knows what in those locations.
Remove the front antisway bar. Drill lightening holes in non load bearing areas like radiator support
Backcut Rear End Gears
Clean undercoating, dirt and grease from under car (you might be surprised what that weighs).
Don't use bolts that are longer than needed. 1 thread above the nut is plenty.
Remove the front sway bar assembly.
Clean the tire rubber off the back of the car, inside wheelwells, etc. You might be surprised how much builds up along with small bits of rock. One of our forum members recently cleaned his car and got 6 lbs of rubber off it! Mill Block of unnecessary items such as fuel pump boss, side motor mounts, etc.
Aluminum
Light weight steering wheel (there are some very light ones used in circle track, all aluminum).
Replace OEM steering column with racing type. Flaming River has some aluminum ones if you want to get fancy.
Switch to billet aluminum brake, clutch, etc pedals. not the boy racer billet "covers" but the pedals themselves - the entire pedal box assembly can be bought/made in billet.
Cut trunk floor out and replace with aluminum
There's a reason back half cars are lighter, and part if that is because they rip all of the stock floor pan out from the seats to the rear bumper and replace it with light tin work. Are there stock sections you can cut out and replace with Aluminum?
Aluminum bumper brackets.
Use aluminum engine parts.
Circle Track Hood Pins are available in aluminum.
Aluminum bolts and nuts for non-critical areas.
Fabricate all non critical brackets/attachments out of aluminum. many of these are available pre made but it is amazing what you can make with some aluminum from your local home improvement store - with some heat, aluminum can be bent and is easy to work with otherwise.
For all non critical fasteners a) if you can't afford titanium, gun drill all steel fasteners or replace fasteners with gun drilled aluminum b) drill all nuts through the flats - in other words, when you are through, each flat of the nut will have a hole - maximize the size - i think a 3/8 nut will take a 1/4 inch hole. you can also use a jam nut (thin) instead of regular nuts. aluminum jam nut ... very trick.
Replace grill assembly with aluminum mesh/hardware cloth.
Use an aluminum master cylinder.
Use a smaller aluminum radiator. Antifreeze/water weigh about 8.5 pounds per gallon.
Get an aluminum driveshaft.
Aluminum Water Pump
Aluminum oil pan, valve covers, air cleaner, etc.
Mini-Starter
Aluminum Balancer
Aluminum Heads / Block
Aluminum Fasteners
Titanium Rods
Aviation Nuts / AN Washers and Bolts where allowed
Aluminum Flywheel
Aluminum Rear Chunk vs Nodular Iron
Aluminum Brake Calipers.
Aluminum Disc brake hubs.
Aluminum Brake drums.
Aluminum Lug Nuts - can save 4 oz off each wheel
Aluminum Gear Housing (9" Ford)
Aluminum wheels - some aluminum wheels are a lot heavier than others. Bogart and Weld Wheels are typically known as some of the lightest wheels available. The new Mickey Thompson rear wheels are supposed to be very light.
Unorganized
Lightweight racing seats.
Replace glass windows with Lexan.
Remove OEM gauge cluster.
Gauges - Auto Meter "Ultra Lights" are good, but what is even better is they are self illuminating and require no wire for lighting, no connectors, bulbs or heavy switches or the weight you carry with these minor items.
Use Chrome Moly for your Cage vs Mild Steel.
Use Velcro for mounting most of your electronics and light applications on carbon fiber brackets. It is easily removable, weighs nothing and does not require fasteners or metal brackets to save weight.
Lithium Battery - as low as possible
Fuel Cell
To get every last ounce, you can trim the seal lip area away from the rear quarters and decklid. That isn't needed for a pin on trunk lid.
Fiberglass body parts (bumpers, hood, doors, trunk lid).
Use pins or quick release fasteners to retain the hood and trunk in place of heavy stock hinges and springs.
Media blast entire car down to "white" (bare metal) 100% of car - top to bottom. shoot with minimal primer (one coat of etch) and use only two or three coats of lacquer paint. with original paint, a car carries about 15+ pounds of paint/primer alone. the undercoating also weighs quite a lot. if the car has been repainted without stripping to bare metal - very, very rare - it is probably carrying an extra 12-15 pounds in paint. more repaints equal more weight. You will likely find that there is somewhere around 40 to 60 lbs or more of paint, seam sealer, bondo etc. on many cars like a Camaro. Have the floorboards, trunk pan, firewall done top and bottom done to get every last ounce.
Paint - Use water based paint. Jerry Sievers-Paint N- Place says he saves approximately 1/3 of weight on his funny cars painting for the pros (John Force, Del Worsham, etc.), by using water based paint and decals – lighter colors (white) without pigment are the lightest. (Submitted by Wayne H. Carroll, E.S) panels can be lightened/thinned by using tip number two.
Acid dip parts that are not critical for strength - dipping can functionally reduce 18 gauge metal down to 20 gauge or less. drill holes with a hole saw for even greater weight savings.
Dzus Fasteners - Drill the middle of those as well.
Have louvers punched in your rear valence or use a hole saw and drill some. saves weight and will release air trapped at speed - also looks cool if done right - even if you use the hole saw.
Remove Bumper shocks and replace with tubing
Remove Vacuum Brake Booster.
Replace the glass headlights with plastic headlights (Round 7" style can be found on ebay, look for "tri bar headlights").
Replace control arms with tubular type.
Replace all brass or steel fuel/oil fittings and line with aluminum where possible.
Reproduction Radiator core support has thinner metal. (Some Malibu's came from the factory with aluminum core supports)
Tubular trans crossmember.
Headers – Stainless steel headers are expensive but very light, think about it.
In Line Water Pump – Think about shifting this weight behind the cars center of gravity, it will save weight over the very front of the car having the water pump relocated and running long aluminum tubes and rubber connectors for water transfer to the radiator. Similar to plumbing for turbos or standard radiator locations.
Use Fabric Braided line (push together) instead of Stainless Steel Braided
See NHRA Approved Pushlock & Woven Lines Chart
Powerglide's are approximately 25 lbs lighter than a TH400. (estimated difference)
Use a 153 tooth Flexplate instead of a 168 tooth
Bias-ply tires are lighter than radials.
Gun Drilled Axles
Lightweight Ring Gear can save up to 6lbs over non-lightened (backside ground)
Wheel Studs don't have to stick out of the nut a mile, use the shortest necessary to fully engage the threads in the Wheel Nut
Gun Drill Cam Shaft
Use .125" wall Chrome Moly axle tubes instead of Mild Steel.
Front Tires vary a lot on weight. Mickey Thompson 8-ply Sportsman tires weigh 19lbs each, a typical "Street Radial" tire is going to weigh a lot more. Phoenix 26" Front Tires are listed at 14lbs, Mickey Thompson ET Front and Moroso DS2 tires in 26" dia weigh about 12lbs ea. The Moroso Drag Specials and Hoosier 26" tires weighs 11lbs ea, the lightest 26" tire we've found are the Goodyear Eagle at 10.83 lbs for the same diameter. 26" Toyo front runner tires weigh in at 11.97lbs (measured).
Use lightweight spindles, springs, and shocks in the front.
Use lightweight control arms.

I've got a 1967 camaro that I parked at the farm 7 or 8 years ago when my first son was born. It was running fine at the time. I need to move it to another location. Does anyone have any advice about the best way to start it up?
I am considering having it towed to a trusted mechanic - mainly because I don't have enough time to tinker with it myself right now. He thinks the gas tank should be drained, dropped and cleaned out at least.
Edit: 327, two-speed powerglide.

Any of you guys rebuild transmissions? I'm not asking for advice (though it would be appreciated), just wondering what experience you guys (or girls) have had and if it's a decent niche to specialize in.
I'm thinking about overhauling a powerglide for my friend's 68 Camaro and the guy at the trans shop pretty much tried as hard as he could to talk me out of it. Says they're finnicky, and really hard to rebuild and gave me a whole pitch about taking it to him and giving me a percentage. I had to take apart a 4R70W and reassemble it in school and think I may have a decent handle on it. But who knows. Just got me to thinking about specializing I guess. Any trans guys in here?

I bought this neglected drag car last winter out of Oklahoma. it was raced in the 90's with a mild 454/powerglide setup. i got it as a roller (no motor or trans). the goal is to make it a running and driving street legal car again. but its missing more than just a motor, trans and driveshaft... it has ZERO chassis electrics, no fuel system or cooling system, no interior, and no title (i'll be getting a bonded title). it has a long way to go BUT i bought a donor car this last weekend, a 91 RS camaro. the body and interior on the third gen are questionable at best but the car runs and drives great and everything works on it, been driving it around with zero issues. it has a 350 and TH350 trans out of a 79 C10. its no big block but it still runs very strong. the plan is to take the engine/trans/driveshaft/cooling system/all electric out of the ugly duckling turd gen and swap them over to the 68.
Album: http://imgur.com/a/KvPgI