Pc enclosures

HardwareSwap

2011.06.21 03:00 HardwareSwap

Welcome to Hardwareswap! A marketplace to Buy, Sell, and Trade your new and used computer related hardware. Also come swap and hang out with us on Discord https://discord.gg/HWSwap!
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2010.03.04 14:41 joris78 Welcome to R/3D Printing! Come for the Benchy, stay for the Calibration!

/3DPrinting is a place where makers of all skill levels and walks of life can learn about and discuss 3D printing and development of 3D printed parts and devices.
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2015.08.11 17:02 Electro_Nick_s Homelab Sales$£€

Sales//Trades for the lab at home.
[link]


2024.05.20 03:11 JordanYKW SSD storage upgrade question

I’m planning on upgrading my 1Tb m.2 SSD soon. I was thinking of how this would work and I decided that buying my new larger SSD, using an enclosure adapter and cloning the one I’m using now onto the new one, then slotting in my freshly cloned larger SSD into my pc. Will this work? Will there be any issues with OS? (I would think now because I’m staying on the same system)
submitted by JordanYKW to pcmasterrace [link] [comments]


2024.05.20 02:15 CrazyDaisy764 Getting an EGPU set up or a cheap gaming laptop

Hey folks! I'm looking to get into PC gaming (I have a PS4 and a Switch) because I really want to be able to use mods (especially on red dead redemption II). Problem is, I have quite a tight budget so I'm trying to decide what my best option is for a basic PC set up given my current (relatively new) laptop is a Dell XPS 13 9320. These are the specs: i7-1280P processor, 16 GB ram, 830 GB space left, 3456 x 2160 resolution and Intel Iris Xe Graphics GPU. I got it as a college grad gift from my parents for work purposes, hence the pathetic Iris XE GPU which has only 128 MB video ram. Sadly, as far as I can tell, it isn't possible to install a new graphics card into any XPS 13 but it is possible to add an EGPU set up. From quickly looking over egpu.io, I could get an okay egpu (GeForce RTX 3060) and enclosure for ~$450-600 or a pretty good one (RTX 4060 instead) for $650-800. I should add the disclaimer that my experience with installing anything like this is basically nil.
So here's my question: what would y'all recommend, going for the egpu set up (will it even work? if different from as described, how?) or just getting an entirely different refurbed gaming laptop within those price ranges ($450-600 or $650-800)? The best refurb I've found so far close in price and (potential) value is a Lenovo LOQ 15APH8 15" for $750. It has a Ryzen 7 7840HS processor, 16 GB ram, 1000 GB space, 1920x1020 resolution and a GeForce RTX 4050 GPU. As far as I can tell, the main advantages of that Lenovo are the built in RTX 4050 and screen size. Otherwise, the Dell seems comparable or better. I do have access (for the time being) to a couple extra monitors I could use, though I'm not sure how high quality they are and I don't have a doc set up.
I'm open to ideas as well, as long as it's less than $800 bc that's all I got, though that is stretching it a bit. In all honesty, $650 at most is probably more realistic. Thanks so much!
submitted by CrazyDaisy764 to gamingsetups [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 19:38 Haldi4803 3.5" HDD 12V Frankensteinmod for HP ProDesk 400 Mini

3.5
Hello,
Few days back i saw a Listing for a HP ProDesk 400 G6 Mini for 150$. Only 4 core i3-10100T but that has about the same performance as the old 6 core i5-8500T, so why not. The Power Efficiency is extreme! This thingy uses around 3-4W in Idle. The plan was to keep it as an Offshore Backup solution. But only NVME Storage was a little disappointing. So i bought some of those flex Sata Adapters.
Backside of Flex Sata Adapter seems normal....
Sadly, or rather according to specification, those Sata Ports only use 5V and do not even have 12V Pins.
Flex Sata Cable without 12V pins....
so my choice is either use 5TB 2.5" Drives that work with 5V only, or source 12V otherwise.
Would be no fun going the easy route right?.... And i already have some old Sata Cables and a mini DC/DC Step Down converter here.
So my plan was to Cut the existing Cable in Half so i only have to source 12V and not 12V+5V+3V
Pins in a Sata Power Cable
At this point i'm not even Sure if Sata Disks use 3.3V or not.... because in Sata 3.3 Spec it got changed somewhen...
https://preview.redd.it/zv8o9gnjxe1d1.jpg?width=650&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e3536c5c85e89505d4639e0997e59ab0f873f96b
Or at leas that's what some guy on StackExchange said.
Well whatever... in my case i won't touch those pins anyway.
Half of a Flex Sata Cable
Half of a Sata Power Cable
It doesn't really look great... but it seems to be stuck well enough and is connected correctly.
All Ground / 12V Pins Safe!
The next Problem is, where to i get 12V power from?
Some Lenovo Thinkstations Tiny do come with 12V Solderpads on the Mainboard. Sadly the HP ProDesk Mini does not seem to have those. Only Valid option is to get 19V directly from the Input, there it has Checkpins.
So i use a Mini360 DC/DC Step Down converter that is rated for 1.8A continuous usage to get those 19V down to 12V
19V input to 12V Sata PowerCable... or half of it.
It took a lot of patience and caused quite a bit of despair, but i barely managed to solder the Cables onto the Checkpoints on the Mainboard.
19V Pins on the Mainboard.
And we got a working 3.5" HDD! Banzai!
3.5\" HDD connected an Working.
Now i just need to somehow figure out how to solve the enclosure problem ^^
But sadly the Sata HDD uses quite a bit of energy and prevents the System from reaching lower C-States. I have a TrueNAS Scale instance running with an empty HomeAssistant VM, Portainer with Jellyfin, Immich and Syncthing and a empty 2nd SSD on the Sata Port. Average Powerdraw was around 5.5W. With the HDD in Idle/Sleep/Standby the powerdraw is increased to 7.5W. Mainly because the System is Stuck in C7 and does not reach C9 anymore. Even Powertop --Auto-tune did not help. Writing something onto the Disk increases Powerdraw to around 12W.
Power usage of the System measured via power plug
But 7.5W is still a pretty decent value for a HomeLab that runs 24/7 and has up to 22TB Storage Capacity.
So yeah.... if your Question is "Can i add a 3.5" HDD to my Mini PC?" The answer is Yes. The other question is, SHOULD you add a 3.5" Drive with a hardware hack to your 24/7 homeserver?
submitted by Haldi4803 to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.19 15:17 Plane_Increase1096 Did I fry my NVMe? I removed an NVMe heatsink (MP600 PRO LPX) in order to fit it into an enclosure. I ran a backup job and went home and viewed the PC remotely and the NVMe was no longer showing up. Booted the PC and still no NVMe

According to Corsair, removing the heatsink does not void the warranty but it can reduce speeds. I backed up about 1TB while it was in the enclosure and left a larger 3TB backup job running. Got home and the backup job had failed. Looked at the PC using a remote access tool and the NVMe was no longer visible. Rebooted PC but the NVMe never showed up. I will have to return to the office to see what happened but I have a bad feeling about this and wanted to get some input. Did I do anything wrong here? https://help.corsair.com/hc/en-us/articles/4407803750669-SSD-How-to-Remove-a-pre-installed-heatsink
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C8CZB5S7/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2OVK74ORFFJID&psc=1
submitted by Plane_Increase1096 to buildapc [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 23:30 _Toxinking Cursed disk

Hello everyone,
I recently found my brother's old PC, which is mostly e-waste now. The only thing I want to salvage is the hard drive because I need to recover the data on it. I have a 2-bay external HDD enclosure, and when I plugged it in, File Explorer crashed. Disconnecting it restored everything to normal.
Every time I plug in the HDD, it messes up my PC. However, I managed to prevent File Explorer from crashing and found that the disk is split into two partitions: one is 100GB, and the other is 50GB. It seems that Windows XP Professional was installed on the 50GB partition.
The 100GB partition appears to be fine; I can use, view, read, and write to it without any issues. So, I don't think the problem lies with this partition. However, the 50GB partition seems "cursed." I can't view or right-click on it, and my PC won't boot when the drive is connected. Programs that deal with disks, like Crystal Disk Manager or Windows Disk Management, often crash or won't load (about 75% of the time). If something isn't loading or is freezing, I unplug the drive and everything returns to normal.
All I want is to recover the data from the 50GB partition. Here are the things I've tried:
  1. Right-clicking on it to access properties (it won’t load).
  2. Using the command chkdisk or diskpart (it freezes).
  3. Accessing the drive from Ubuntu Desktop (failed to mount).
  4. Using a cheap adapter to connect the drive (doesn't even acknowledge it).
  5. Trying external programs (they also freeze).
  6. Booting from it (on three different PCs), resulting in the error: "A problem has been detected and Windows has been shut down to prevent damage."
The drive is a 160GB Western Digital Caviar Blue (model: WD1600AABS) with Windows XP Professional installed on it.
I’ve tried more fixes but can’t remember them all. Please help me recover the 50GB partition.
Note: I checked the drive in CrystalDiskInfo, and it showed a "caution" status.
https://preview.redd.it/os069r2p691d1.png?width=1607&format=png&auto=webp&s=4a5abd56d338b3742411ecf00e51ca9ebe67b35b
submitted by _Toxinking to pchelp [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 20:26 Smalls_0994 Advice on completing my indoor set up

Just not sure what products I need to finish my set up. I’m moving into a new house, seller is gifting me: - hitting mat & hitting turf (not sure the difference but it is shown separate) - enclosure - impact screen - projector mount
I know I need but not sure what kind: - projector - launch monitor (looking at mevo+ but open to suggestions) - laptop or PC (no idea what I need) - maybe other stuff in not thinking of?
I’d like to stay around $4k if at all possible.
Thanks in advance for any advice
submitted by Smalls_0994 to Golfsimulator [link] [comments]


2024.05.18 06:00 ChrisPoore PC won’t boot after upgrading CPU and primary SSD

Howdy! Having an issue booting my pc after upgrading my CPU and Primary m.2 SSD. B I upgraded my CPU to a Ryzen 5 5800X3D and SSD to a Samsung 990 Pro.
Before swapping the components I copied my previous drive with windows to the new SSD using an enclosure.
Below are my previous specs:
GPU: EVGA 2070
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600X Processor with Wraith Spire Cooler
MOBO: ASUS ROG Strix X470-1 Gaming AMD Ryzen 2 AM4 DDR4 HDMI M.2 mini-ITX
RAM: Corsair VENGEANCE RGB PRO DDR4 32GB (2x16GB) 3600MHz CL18 Intel XMP 2.0
Cooling: NZXT Kraken X52 240mm
Primary HD: Crucial P1 500GB 3D NAND NVMe PCle M.2
LEDs and Fans turn on but no display.
Troubleshooting: So far I’ve tried to reset CMOS by unplugging the MOBO battery, reseating and thermal pasting the CPU, I’ve tried plugging an HDMI directly into the motherboard and bypassing the graphics card, tried turning on with no ram, and lastly I’ve swapped my old SSD back in.
All yielding the same results. PC turns on but not booting.
Any suggestions?
submitted by ChrisPoore to buildapc [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 16:25 urbex-y Using consumer SSD drives in an HP Gen9 workstation/server

Hi all, I appreciate this topic has been covered in the past, but there has never really been a definitive or effective solution. I am just hoping that things have changed and there may be more information about this topic in 2024.
Up until now, my Lan server has been a PC based ATX system installed in a 4U enclosure. I use it for network storage and virtualisation. I decided to experiment with enterprise-level hardware and have recently bought an HP ML150 Gen 9. Again this will be used for virtual machines and file storage.
I am very keen to be able to use consumer-level drives. Nothing on my system is mission critical or will receive demanding use, so I am prepared to live with less redundancy. The system I have purchased (not yet received it) has 8 x 2.5 SATA bays. I would like to use 5 x 1 TB WD blue drives in raid 5 configuration.
My understanding is that this "should" work, but without genuine HPE drives the system may not get proper temperature readings causing the fans to run high. Is this really the case and is there any sort of workaround for this?
submitted by urbex-y to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 14:27 thechildishweekend My server and the 2 drive bay problem

I use an old Optiplex 3060 for my Plex server. Works great, has been fairly reliable. I’m currently running a 14TB HDD and an 8TB HDD plugged into USB 3.0 sitting in an Orico external enclosure. Unlike my server, my HDD enclosure is anything but reliable. Random USB disconnects/device not recognized errors as of late and will also randomly power off.
I want to ditch the USB and have all of my drives running off of SATA. PC only has 2 SATA ports(one of which is occupied by my OS disk) and I don’t think it has enough power connectors to power anything more than 2 HDD’s anyways (would like to avoid molex adapters).
eSATA enclosures don’t seem to be a thing any more so that’s not an option. Anybody have any ideas? For those of you with 4+ drives, what are your setups like?
submitted by thechildishweekend to PleX [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 09:07 Xexx NVMe drive no longer shows up

I'm trying to help my friend with his PC issue. He started getting driver_irql_not_less_or_equal BSOD for Wdf01000.sys yesterday and it got more frequent. Computer wouldn't run for any length of time. I recommended a system restore and after the restore, it fails to boot at all into windows.
Now the computer doesn't seem to recognize the NVMe drive. I created a Windows 11 boot media and have done all the troubleshooting options I could through it. chkdsk, scannow, Nothing works. The drive doesn't display using disk part. When attempting to reinstall windows 11, there are no drives that show up beyond the boot media. It says "We couldn't find any drives. To get a storage driver, click Load Driver"
I have pulled out the NVMe drive and put it into a USB enclosure. It works on my other computer and I can browse the files fine as a mounted USB drive. I used crystaldiskmark & info and neither report a problem with the drives health, benchmarks also work okay. I put it back in the system and it still doesn't recognize the drive. The only trace of the drive I can find is in the system BIOS, under Boot Priority, it shows Windows Boot Manager (Micron_3400_MTFDKBA1T0TFH) (1024.2GB) but once running the windows installer or disk part, it doesn't appear at all.
I did try plugging in a different USB drive on the machine, and when refreshed the windows install found that.
Can anyone recommend any way to get the computer to see the NVMe drive or any other options?
System is ROG STRIX GT15 G15 - ASUS G15CF-WB786 with Windows 11.
submitted by Xexx to techsupport [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 07:51 davidstarflower State of DAS enclosures in 2024? DAS + mini PC vs NAS

Hello everyone,
I was wondering what the state of direct-attached storage enclosures is in 2024. In particular with regards to attaching them to a mini PC to run homelab / NAS services (software RAID / ZFS, network storage / SMB, Plex, Pi-hole, etc).
Searching through this subreddit, most relevant posts say DAS' are not as reliable, but most of them also are 2+ years old.
In particular I am eyeballing the Terramaster D8 Hyrbid (4xHDD, 4xNVMe, 10 Gbps USB 3.2) plus one of those Intel N100 mini PCs. I am not very versed in the chipsets these things run, so I can't tell whether there are now newer and/or more reliable chipsets out there.
submitted by davidstarflower to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.17 01:04 TheWakker Planet Zoo Planner

Planet Zoo Planner
I noticed there's a Planet Zoo enclosure planner available online! However, when I go to use it on my cell phone, it looks all wonky and I can't make any use of it. Is there a way to fix this? Or is it only PC accessible?
submitted by TheWakker to PlanetZoo [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 23:51 mr_boizoff Truthear x Crinacle ZERO: RED Earphones Review

Truthear x Crinacle ZERO: RED Earphones Review
A job change and all sorts of other adventures made me take some time off from the reviews. But, as the saying is, "Don't count on it!" — there will be a lot of them in the short run, and they will be interesting, well balanced and spot on!
In short, let's talk today about the in-ear wired earphones Truthear x Crinacle ZERO: RED (or just RED later on), which I purchased for about $55 you know where.
https://preview.redd.it/9ywolwakyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=57da9791a73200cc6d3c99ce8a3c061657ae7bb8
By the way, my old camera broke down, so I bought a new one, that's why the pictures will be even more unbelievably brilliant now. Come on and get a look, all the pictures are clickable, as always.

Truthear in a nutshell

Truthear, a Chinese company, has just turned 2 years old, but they have already released 5 models of earphones and one portable DAC. The company was allegedly founded by one or more Moondrop people. With all the trimmings of modern Chinese fashion, Truthear has a mascot, which is an anime girl named Shiroi, weighing 45 kg, 170 cm tall and... I have no idea why I say all this.
Their partner in the field of 3D printing technology is HeyGears, whose equipment or capacities, I believe, Truthear uses to produce its devices (at least, earphones).

What's included

The proud owner of this top-quality cardboard box will find in it as follows:
https://preview.redd.it/ea3yvoxpyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bd5ea91ac6fdb1ec11c76dd3f8c77c81b7b7b7e9
1. the earphones themselves;
2. a cable with a 3.5 TRS connector;
3. an adapter with an additional load of 10 Ohms (I'll tell you why we need it later);
4. a set of 7 pairs of eartips;
5. a fair-to-middling cover made of faux leather;
6. a pile of papers with the image of Shiroi.
The box, I will repeat myself, is perfectly made, I've never seen anything like this. I'm totally cool with the set, it's a good one.

Technological features, build quality

RED use a less common structure 'a larger dynamic driver + a second smaller dynamic driver'. The first one is responsible for the subbass and bass up to 200 Hz and has a diameter of 10 mm, and the second one plays the rest of the range and has a diameter of 7.5 mm.
The manufacturer talks about the 'CCAW voice coil', that is, about the fact that the driver coil is made of copper-plated aluminum wire. Usually, when it applies to headphones, this is made to reduce the weight of the driver's mobile system. This technology is not new: for example, it is also used in Moondrop Aria Snow.
Besides, 'DLP', or 'Digital light processing', 3D printing technology is mentioned. This is a three-dimensional printing process, characterized by high accuracy and the ability to correctly reproduce extremely small details.
And the last but not the least, the earphones are optimized for use at high volume (over 94 dB) and configured in accordance with the 'IEF Neutral 2023' curve by Corin Ako (better known as Crinacle), but with some adjustments in the bass and subbass sections, giving the sound of RED more weight and physicality.
So, RED are earphones printed on an industrial 3D printer, based on a 2-driver scheme. And Crinacle, a well-known reviewer and owner of the largest IEM measurement database, is responsible for tuning RED.
The earphones have a simple but distinctive design. The enclosures are completely glossy and slightly transparent on the inside. On the outside, there are mildly glaring red inserts under a coat of varnish.
https://preview.redd.it/5og1uxwsyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=b0403d22e9fcb489cf8da789149869145fcf8349
You can discern bass speakers inside at a definite angle.
https://preview.redd.it/9v2r688uyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=846183aa032e50b66ae4344c5af8fe6109e1cc26
The grids of the sound ducts are neat, inserted smoothly.
https://preview.redd.it/6b569ycvyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=4a2a9a4c28e277808efd6e80c2b767457ee7e640
There is one compensation hole per each earphone, located in close proximity to a 2-pin connector. L and R are marked in bright golden letters. Small edgings for fixing the eartips were made, too.
Overall, they are quite good and even stylish. The only issue is microscratching that affects the enclosure right off the bat. But it's not really perceptible to the eye.
On top of that, the earphones act as a magnet to fingerprints.
The cable is just decent. It doesn't get too tangled, and the earholders are made at the right angle. The metal splitter is solid black, with the company logo printed on it.
https://preview.redd.it/c7331knwyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=d66836329928887b3fc396b7bb6596bf486eae20
The very same cable comes with Truthear HEXA and Zero earphones.
The case is made decently, too, but it does not have any internal compartments or partitions. I already wrote about how an adequate case should be designed 5 years ago – no one has released anything alike yet.
https://preview.redd.it/3rbvma2zyu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cc21b72be8af06e6cd816a5903135b0e1255c46a

Ergonomics

The geometry of the RED enclosures turned out to be perfectly compatible with my ears. They don’t have any strange concavities, bulges, or sharp edges, the sound ducts are positioned at a natural angle, the dimensions of the enclosures are... ordinary, only a little thick. Just put them in and listen to music. And they don't have much weight at all.
I'll assume that the sound ducts may turn out to be uncomfortably large for owners of small ears, because, let's be honest, these are not sound ducts, they are simply muzzles. Probably, when you get a first taste of these earphones, you will want to change your favorite eartips for the same, but smaller ones.
The flipside is the noise insulation — RED's one is above average because the earphones fit in tightly.
As for the 10-Ohm adapter, it is not convenient to use it on the go: a few centimeters long, thin rigid structure will stick out of the player audio output, which can easily damage the connector if stressed accidentally.

Quick specifications overview

  • Design: in-ear closed-back.
  • Drivers: 2 dynamic drivers.
  • Impedance: 18 Ohms.
  • Sensitivity: 117 dB.
  • Connectors: classic 2-pin, 0.78 mm.
  • Weight: 6 g (each earphone).

Subjective sound impression

RED sound great: balanced and new at the same time. Imagine that a 'top-up' of a very weighty and fast subbass was added to neutral sound delivery, which never overlaps the bass for a moment, not a iota, let alone the mid-frequency range. What's more, a lot of well-articulated high frequencies were poured in (we're talking about the 3-10 kHz range), but not those that get sandy, filled with sibilants that grate on the ear. They are just heard very well. This is, you know, sort of 'a joy of a HF-phobe who still wants a lot of HF'. With this in mind, the middle range is perceived to the utmost, there are no dips and curbs there, and it is just excellent.
The result is a 'smooth', but vibrant and simultaneously informative sound delivery with a stable low-frequency basis, perceived as 'dynamic' and 'detailed'. It is ten kinds of cool, simply brilliant tuning that retains its uniqueness and accuracy far beyond the price category of these earphones.
Against the background of the high frequencies delivered in this fashion, RED have a clear and wide virtual sound stage with a clear localization of instruments. It could be better, but in a very, very different price bracket.
Why the RED sound might not work for someone:
  • The sound is not 'thick'. And that's exactly how a normal bass, separated from the subbass, not affecting the midrange, sounds like.
  • "I hear something that's out of place". When mixing, the authors decided to make the recording 'brighter' or simply did not handle the sound very carefully, having thought that no one would hear the nuances. If this was the case, RED will let you hear weird synthetic glide sounds, abrupt high-frequency sounds etc. To cut it short, you will hear a lot of blatant defects in the music poorly recorded and mixed, as well as a lot of new and amazing things in the well-recorded and -mixed one.
  • There's not enough subbass. And here comes the 10-Ohm adapter included. Upon its connection, the bass and subbass are raised by 3 dB (see the next section). Even if everything is fine with your subbass perception, when using RED in an urban environment, the low-frequency range being masked with external sound sources may require the usage of this adapter.
  • The ultra-high frequency range (from 10 kHz and above) could be more delicate. Actually not, it couldn't because the earphones cost $55 and not $550.
  • To sum up, in terms of frequency balance, the RED sound is truly unique and one of a kind. For me, RED have become the first in-ear headphones in a month of Sundays that made me freeze on the spot when listening to music that I've been familiar with for a lifetime.

Measurements

The earphones were connected to the RME ADI-2 DAC (IEM output). A measuring rig conforms to the IEC60318-4 standard. The provided eartips were used for measurements. The smoothing is indicated on the graphs. For the info about rigs, graphs and headphones measurements, refer to my article.
Frequency response:
https://preview.redd.it/eri2gsdezu0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=290174f139b73f2f312471e985e624548293bc9b
Keep your eye out for the dashed green line – this is the target curve conventionally named Crinacle Neutral Target 2023. This target curve was proposed by Ako in April 2023 as an alternative to the Harman curve, which is appreciated by far from everyone. The diffuse field curve measured at the Type 5128 rig manufactured by Brüel & Kjær was used as a basis, which was then transferred to the IEC711 rig and 'tilted' clockwise. Why it was done and why this way – I will try to answer these questions in detail in another article on the theoretical part of measurements, but I won't go deep at the moment.
What matters is that this is not just a tuning. This is a very specific tuning that has been contemplated on for quite a while.
To put this in perspective and see something more common, here is the frequency response of RED and the most current Harman curve:
https://preview.redd.it/hi0j1bkuzu0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=8fd9854f18d81798fc43e769f6eca16027dbb144
And the situation here is very interesting:
  • up to 200 Hz, the RED frequency response corresponds to the Harman curve in shape;
  • 200 Hz are 'sunk', and this is what gives a feeling of elastic, full-fledged subbass;
  • at low frequencies and in the middle, there is a smooth addition of up to 2 dB at maximum;
  • the midrange rise is shifted from 2.7 kHz slightly to the right;
  • peaks after 13 kHz are most likely aberrations of the rig, I personally do not hear them.
Does such sound tuning have a right to life? My ears tell me that yes, more than that.
As a reminder, there is a 10-Ohm attenuator included.
https://preview.redd.it/gna9eigwzu0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=cb2c1b9ed0b29c76a2e156215626383ff72c6ca4
When it is connected, the left part of the frequency response graph rises predictably, and the sound becomes more 'common':
https://preview.redd.it/n5egvhryzu0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=5b3d26d901780a7eca911071bd68f838b2ce6b88
The left/right volume balance is not ideal, but acceptable:
https://preview.redd.it/iwsc9mh00v0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=e7fb32e88c180e2183a53c7747464d5ab8382ef5
Nonlinear distortions (these are measurements that should not be 100% trusted because my equipment is far from perfect):
https://preview.redd.it/m8ozge320v0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=0b47fde9e64b1857e633b8adebc82a2f182f5da6

Sound source choice

For my listening tests, I've connected the earphones to the following devices.
  • PC + RME ADI-2 DAC fs (IEM output) – unbalanced connection
  • PC + RME ADI-2 DAC fs ('High Power' mode) – unbalanced connection
  • Hiby R6 gen 3 ( Gain – High, Amplifier Operation – Class AB/A)
The sources were switched by a mechanical input switch.
With Hiby R6, the earphones' sound is a little more bassy and solid. I didn't hear any other difference in the sound of RED when using various sources.

Eartip choice

I didn't like the eartips provided.
https://preview.redd.it/ibe7nc860v0d1.jpg?width=1800&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=fbd68bf567e714ad6809423295c8e0b049af3048
Three left pairs have a clearly smaller diameter compared to one of the sound duct and are just difficult to pull on. The right pairs fit the sound ducts easier, but just like the left ones, they're not really soundproof.
As for foam eartips, I just don't like them.
In short, I tested RED with TRI Clarion, and the same I recommend to you. The fit is comfortable, deep and tight enough.

Comparisons

PLEASE NOTE: everything I say below is only applicable to the earphones from the point of view of comparison to other models, nothing more!

RED vs. Truthear HEXA

The Truthear x Crinacle ZERO: RED and Truthear HEXA frequency response graphs compared:
https://preview.redd.it/690dctkb0v0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=901456e8b5ae27dfe60ab024099b82a41dd4f49a
Subjective difference in sounding
  • RED are much bassier as compared to HEXA.
  • HEXA have a more pronounced middle range and less accentuated upper frequencies.
  • However, the upper frequency range of HEXA is less even, so the peak of nearly 7.5 kHz is perceived more clearly with HEXA.
Compared to each other, RED's sound can be called 'V-shaped', with their sound delivery more versatile, whereas HEXA are more 'reserved' and 'neutral'.

RED vs. Moondrop May

I'd like to note that comparing RED earphones and, in fact, DAP+earphones, which is what May is, is incorrect. Therefore, below we will talk only about the sound. May were connected via their standard DSP cable, and the equalizer was set to 'Standard'.
The Truthear x Crinacle ZERO: RED and Moondrop May frequency response graphs compared:
https://preview.redd.it/up1nlade0v0d1.jpg?width=1600&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=10b015a8032de6440aefc8033fde02c579d72268
Subjective difference in sounding
  • May highlight the range of about 6 kHz in a stronger manner, their sound is more sonorous and sharp.
  • The voices in May's interpretation sound noticeably closer.
  • May give the sound a little more 'physicality' and 'dirt'.
Compared to each other, RED's sound can be called more 'neutral' and even 'intelligent', whereas I would characterize May's sound delivery as 'rougher', less 'balanced', more 'subjective'.

Summary

The Chinese economic ramp-up, the development of manufacturing technologies for drivers and enclosures, as well as the development of knowledge about sound in in-ear headphones let us buy a product for $55 in 2024, for which sound they would have charged us good $550 without batting an eyelid and turning a hair 10 years ago, although it seems questionable to me that someone would have been up to such tuning at that time.
And I'm quite agreeable to give credit to Crinacle: while I honestly wrote in the KZ Zex Pro review that the earphones were frankly poorly tuned (whether through Crinacle's fault or not, I have no idea), RED is a completely different story. This is just an example of how to proceed from competence in the field of headphone measurements to successful headphone production.
I am not inclined to believe, of course, that this was a sole effort of Crinacle — everyone sang in harmony, both him and Truthear as the immediate manufacturer.
In general, everything is both clear and complicated about RED at the same time: these are earphones with a universal fit and eminently calibrated tuning, combining neutrality, detail, weight, dynamics and lack of listening fatigue in equal measure. Top it off, there is a 10-Ohm attenuator included for those who 'starve for the lower section'.
To buy or not to buy: to buy, at least just for the fun of learning what kind of tuning is this!
submitted by mr_boizoff to headphones [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 22:50 EvilEmuOfDoom My Thermaltake Tower 300 Project Zero build. The good, bad, tips, and why I had to return it despite loving it.

https://preview.redd.it/3mk8opd2pu0d1.jpg?width=1536&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=005e7e74a8ca90537b9a5b4331b8214c3bfdfd04
Before you read my way-too-long write up. Note that if you find any glaring/obvious mistakes I've made that this is my first custom PC build since I built a dual-Celeron 300A system using socket to slot adapters and overclocking to 454Mhz in 1999 to play Quake 2 in Windows NT! So I'm a little rusty ;)

Parts:

The Good:

The Bad:

Important Notes:

Tips and Tricks:

Project Zero motherboard right side (when looking at the back) header access: I don't know if this was a good or bad idea but I basically put only the 3 motherboard screws in place on the right side (when looking from the front) then positioned the case vertically. I then loosened those 3 screws just enough that I could swing the left side of the motherboard (when looking from the front) about 1 inch or so away from the case like opening a door slightly. That gave me enough room to access the headers using two hands by positioning myself on that side of the case and reaching from the rear with my left hand and reaching through the side with my right hand. This actually made it pretty easy to hook up those headers although it might not be the safest setup for the motherboard. I did this before hooking up anything else to the motherboard.
TT TH360 V2 AIO: I was able to mount this with the tubes at the bottom but it was tricky. I backed my power supply out a few inches, put the bottom of the radiator assembly in place, with the top leaning back out of the case while I routed the tubes carefully towards the front of the case (see pics). I then screwed the radiator bracket into place and slid my power supply back in and secured it.

Why I'm returning my Tower 300:

Unfortunately, I could not get my GPU to run lower than 76C at 100% fans when the case was vertical (slower fans made it thermal throttle at 84C). I put a digital thermometer in the case and it was 26C while the room was 22C. Even having every panel on the case off helped very little. When I tipped the case on it's side so that the GPU was oriented like it would be in a normal case (I propped it up at each end on 2 boxes to not block the air intake) the temps dropped down to 55C at 50% fans and that was without adjusting the airflow in the case to make it better horizontally so the case was actually hotter at 32C. Working with MSI support we determined that heat from other components on the card was likely migrating to the chip while in this position :(. I could have got the horizontal stand but the case just doesn't fit my desk setup in that orientation. So, my choices were to either return my GPU and try to find one that works in this case or replace the case. I didn't want to risk having to try and return a bunch of cards so sadly I'm returning the case and getting a Corsair 6500x. However, if you have a way to test or confirm that a GPU works in this vertical orientation, I do recommend the Tower 300 case. I will miss it.
submitted by EvilEmuOfDoom to PcBuild [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 22:08 KeepingItCoolish UPDATE: A1 Combo as gift for boyfriend - FINAL HAUL

UPDATE: A1 Combo as gift for boyfriend - FINAL HAUL
First off I'd like to thank again everyone who helped me on my previous post to determine what accessories would be best to get my boyfriend to get started on his new A1 combo I bought him. Everything but one item has arrived! I'll summarize what I ended up getting below.
Original Bambu Lab order:
  • Bambu A1 and AMS combo
  • 20 rolls various Bambu filament
  • Bambu hot ends kit (0.2mm, 0.4mm, 0.6mm)
  • Bambu liquid glue (I realize I likely don't need it now)
  • Bambu dual-texture PEl plate
From your suggestions:
Tools and maintenance
Filament drying/storage
Project hardwarez
You wanna take a guess at the total $$$ before I post it?? Winner gets absolutely nothing because I just spent all my fun money for the summer lol
Future project: build an enclosure! Waiting to see where he wants to keep the printer and how he wants to situate the AMS as top-mount or side-by-side. I've got some crazy ideas about modifying an old stereo cabinet or maybe a server rack if I could find a good deal. Or maybe just start from scratch with a custom frame. Hoping to come up with a solution that is cheaper than a pre-built solid enclosure but a more sturdy/permanent solution than a tent. If we do not go the enclosure route, I anticipate I'll be investigating a filament dryer / feed system similar to the cereal boxes or maybe one of the SUNLU dryer boxes I was suggested. All TBD!
Thank you all so much for your help. And keep sending suggestions of accessories you love! There's a few things on the old thread that are still on the wishlist, too. I'll be gifting him this evening, currently dying of anticipation... I'll share on this thread how he reacts!
https://preview.redd.it/ebbhe8t1iu0d1.png?width=1440&format=png&auto=webp&s=0a504d0d15a904d4d94340eba7eb19e76a58f1e2
https://preview.redd.it/qdo88yg2iu0d1.jpg?width=4080&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=bff67347033b23afb8afa85c8f6e8d58f7e69fd6
https://preview.redd.it/fmylm303iu0d1.jpg?width=3072&format=pjpg&auto=webp&s=96ea250de5cdf9d8942667dd33e90fde92e9bb1a
submitted by KeepingItCoolish to BambuLab [link] [comments]


2024.05.16 04:57 SevenDeMagnus Are Maiwo Brand Enclosures and Docking Stations Good?

Hello PC Builders, is Maiwo brand a good brand when it comes to enclosures and docking stations (2.5 and/or 3.5 SATA) which can also clone without and operating system and come with USB 3.0. powered slots (two), prices in some sites at US$23.
God bless, Rev. 21:4
PcBuild
submitted by SevenDeMagnus to PcBuildHelp [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 23:56 223specialist Looking for a Ruggedized powerhouse Development Module.

I've done plenty of stuff on Arudinos, Raspberry Pi's, Other microcontrollers, but obviously those are not really meant for industrial environments. Looking for something like an arduino in terms of functionality, i2C UART, Digital I/O Etc. but crank up the processing speed and put it in a platform that has sturdier connections, better power filtering etc. Basically something you wouldn't mind putting in an enclosure and throwing in the engine compartment of a vehicle.
Looking at versalogic's stuff and that seems promising, even though it's pretty much a mini PC
submitted by 223specialist to embedded [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 23:20 32178932123 NAS on a Budget: 2x HDDs in RAID 1, 4x HDDs in RAID 5 or JBOD w/ FreeNAS?

I currently have a Terramaster NAS with 2x 4TB HDDs in RAID 1 and it's done really well but I'm unfortunately running low on space so looking to expand.
With my limited budget (<£1000) I think I have a few options:
Unfortunately these can only survive a single disk failure but it seems RAID 6 requires at least 5x disks and there are no 5-Bay NASes in my budget.
I am really looking for some opinions on what others would do in this situation, the pros and cons of both options and whether there is anything I should be considering. This data is mainly TV and Films so wouldn't cry if I lost it in a house fire but it is a collection I've collected over the years so would prefer not too loose it overnight if it was from my own doing.
Another option could be a JBOD with FreeNAS or another software-based RAID solution on my existing Micro PC "Server"? It seems to be potentially cheaper but then it sounds like USB Drives are not really supported... I'd love to hear if anyone is doing this and how it works.
Any thoughts or opinions would be fantastic! Thanks!
submitted by 32178932123 to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 21:41 timo906 4x 16 TB SAS Drives + 1x Apple Mac Mini... A puzzle I can't solve

Heya guys!
A while back, a friend of mine offered to build me a Plex server. When he handed it over – a PC running a Linux server with Docker and 4x16 TB hard disks – it was riddled with problems. Being a noob with PCs and networking, I couldn't figure out how to fix it. My friend was often unavailable, so I decided to take matters into my own hands...
I reinstalled everything, opting for Windows instead of Linux. While I'm not great at this, I managed to set up a basic Plex server with SonarRadarr, Usenet, Torrents, and the whole shebang. It worked… for a bit. But I kept running into problems: driver errors and hard disk disconnects. As a self-proclaimed noob and an Apple user, I didn't have the time or expertise to troubleshoot it all. So, I set out to build a server I understood and could rely on...
I bought a refurbished Apple Mac Mini (M1) and an external RAID enclosure, only to realize my drives don’t fit. Turns out, I have SAS drives instead of SATA. I returned the enclosure and now I’m stuck, not knowing how to proceed.
Here’s what I have:
That’s it. No other gear. I've considered the following:
Please, for the love of the Flying Spaghetti Monster, help me out! Thanks!!
submitted by timo906 to homelab [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 16:05 SevenDeMagnus Is Aiwo a Decent Brand?

Hello PC Build friends, I've only had the Wavlink which I'd say is a good brand for perhaps a decade now, docking station (single dock but w/ 2 powered USB 3.0 ports). I'd like to try other no name brands that are decent. Would you know if the Aiwo brand is a good brand:
https://www.amazon.com/SATA-Docking-Station-Enclosure-Function/dp/B0BV5H3G4G/ref=sr_1_60?crid=VTQWU4QXKKT6&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.zo2H2uY6yIdviFIWgz43WhRzA17NNyNHeFe78VZz5Z2c7EhO98O_JBHsmya3YAQ4-XBGKooKHi8ywnRZVKzoB4Oa4v1PCOh5ZZhrbm1IIoDvaQ14ctKectjPuaXblQdupIcMbsGQP4EKq_IINcV2rxkofg3TBcoGS5VIXJSMaPgfgHvPrXaezS93FaJo0N9p.8RLQjEoJP7q9XRpstpBx94jym6y6vM5Xg8hNeCkt23U&dib_tag=se&keywords=Maiwo%2BUSB&qid=1715783043&sprefix=maiwo%2Bus%2Caps%2C338&sr=8-60&th=1
Since it's powered, I believe the extra USB 3.0 port it uses will have more amperage to charge, say a DualSense controller and other power hungry gadgets that need charging but correct me if I'm wrong.
Thank you, God bless PC Build Masterace.
submitted by SevenDeMagnus to PcBuild [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 14:14 ALLEyezOnMe_XO Terrible Download Speeds on MacOS + External Disk

Hey guys,
So my girlfriend upgraded to a Macbook Air M1 from her old Windows (HDD) laptop and since we didn't want to put any unnecessary strain on her Mac's SSD, I decided to get her an external disk that she can download her torrents to. Said disk is connected to our router via an Orico USB 3.0 enclosure. Our hardware specs / setup is the following:
  1. Macbook Air M1 8GB RAM - the computer that qBittorrent and the Plex server are installed on
  2. TP-LINK Archer AX50 - the router to which I have physically connected the external disk
  3. WD 1TB 2.5" SATA 6Gb/s 5400 RPM HDD - the first disk I tried
  4. Kingston A400 240GB SSD - the second disk I tried
  5. Gigabit internet connection with no throttling / "anti-torrenting policies"
No matter what kind of qBittorrent settings I tried (using both libtorrent versions of the application), we always get write cache overloads and terrible download speeds of up to 2MB/s, which fluctuate greatly. I initially thought that it may be the HDD's fault, which is why I replaced it with the SSD, but the outcome was exactly the same - there is write cache overload of up to 70% - 80% even at super low speeds. In contrast, I download at around 40MB/s on my Windows PC (internal disk), so the internet connection is not the problem, per se.
Do you have any idea what I should consider changing in terms of qBittorrent settings? Any advice will be greatly appreciated :)
submitted by ALLEyezOnMe_XO to qBittorrent [link] [comments]


2024.05.15 13:58 Infamous_Egg_9405 Do affordable eGPU enclosures just not exist?

Looking to downsize my desktop into a handheld (Lenovo legion go is what I've got eyes on for now) with thunderbolt 3 or 4, coupled with an eGPU enclosure with the RTX 3060TI from my current PC. The only problem with this is that every eGPU enclosure I can find online costs basically the same as a brand new 3060ti. I thought the point of an eGPU was to offer a way to get expensive PC performance without having to spend heaps of money. I was prepared for around $200 Australian but they're more like 400-500, and my PC is likely not worth more than $900 including GPU which I was planning not to sell with it.
Legion Go is around $1300-1500, I likely won't ba able to get more than $600 for my PC without the GPU, and then it'll cost me $500 for the eGPU. And at the end of the day I'll only have lost performance compared to my PC. However I am aware of the 20-30% performance loss and am okay with this.
Am I out of luck or is this how the financials usually look?
submitted by Infamous_Egg_9405 to eGPU [link] [comments]


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