Realtek alc1200 dts

Are the GIGABYTE B550 AORUS ELITE AX V2 (AMD Ryzen 5000/B550/ATX/True 12+2 Phases Digital VRM/PCIe4.0/DDR4/USB3.2 Gen 1/Realtek ALC1200/Intel WiFi 6/2xM.2 Thermal Guard/2.5 GbE LAN/HDMI/DP/Gaming Motherboard)
And the
Rx 6700xt
Compatible

This is my very first Pc Most of the parts are already delivered
Corsair 3000D AIRFLOW Mid-Tower PC Case – 3-Pin Fans – Four-Slot GPU Support – Fits up to 8x 120mm Fans – High-Airflow Design – White
orsair RM750e (2023) Fully Modular Low-Noise Power Supply - ATX 3.0 & PCIe 5.0 Compliant - 105°C-Rated Capacitors - 80 Plus Gold Efficiency - Modern Standby Support - Black
GIGABYTE B550 AORUS ELITE AX V2 (AMD Ryzen 5000/B550/ATX/True 12+2 Phases Digital VRM/PCIe4.0/DDR4/USB3.2 Gen 1/Realtek ALC1200/Intel WiFi 6/2xM.2 Thermal Guard/2.5 GbE LAN/HDMI/DP/Gaming Motherboard)
Corsair VENGEANCE LPX DDR4 16GB (2x8GB) 3200MHz CL16 Intel XMP 2.0 Computer Memory - Black
DeepCool AK620 CPU Air Cooler High-Performance 260w TDP 6 Copper Heat Pipes Dual-Tower CPU Cooler with Fans Each 120mm PWM 1850RPM 68.99CFM for Intel LGA 1700/1200/1151/1150/1155 AMD AM5/AM4
Western Digital 1TB SN750 NVMe Internal Gaming SSD Solid State Drive - Gen3 PCIe, M.2 2280, 3D NAND, Up to 3,470 MB/s - WDS100T3X0C
XFX Speedster SWFT309 AMD Radeon RX 6700 XT CORE Gaming Graphics Card with 12GB GDDR6 HDMI 3xDP, AMD RDNA 2 RX-67XTYJFDV
AMD Ryzen 7 5700X 8-Core, 16-Thread Unlocked Desktop Processor

I have this speakers connected by optic fiber to the SPDIF out of my motherboard (MSI Z790 Godlike Max; Realtek 4082); the speakers sometimes don't emit sound, or they produce a clicking noise before playing sounds.
I can't understand if this a speaker issue or a motherboard one.
Dolby and DTS is disabled, and the samplerate is set at 48k 24 bit (16 is the same).
I was even thinking of getting an external DAC, but it seems that the analogue input of the Edifiers is converted back to digital for processing, so I'd prefer not to keep converting the signal.
Can you help me please?

Hi guys im newbie to the hardware world but i would like to request some help in finding a budget laptop im not sure this is the right subreddit in asking this ... however if you guys can help out please im in a very tight budget live alone so i cant make any mistakes... if not the right place im sorry im terrible with social media and ask you guys to forgive me, so here it goes:
I love gamning but im searching a laptop (on a budget) and im between an Acer and a Dell g15 laptops ill be posting the links below. However my doubt is that both these laptops have been getting alot of complaints specially when they come out of warranty after a year or so. I need one for the long haul I mean after I waste this amount of money my bills will be tight .... LMAO sorry for the rant. And I also enjoy some video editing and programming. Between the two below and remembering im speaking from another country so i dont have access to the latest cheap models in the USA/Europe/India and so on. But any way I really want something to be reliable for a good amount of time. So here it goes
Processor
13th Generation Intel® Core™ i5-13450HX (10-core, 20MB cache, up to 4.6GHz)
Operating System (Dell Technologies recommends Windows 11 Pro for businesses)
Ubuntu Linux 22.04
Graphics Card NVIDIA® GeForce® RTX™ 3050, 6GB GDDR6
Display 15.6" Full HD (1920 x 1080), 120Hz, 250 nits
Memory 8GB DDR5 (1x8GB) 4800MT/s; Expandable up to 32GB (2 SO-DIMM slots)
Storage 256GB PCIe NVMe M.2 SSD
Color Dark Shadow Gray - Graphite
Microsoft Office No productivity software
Security Software No antivirus
Technical Support 1 year basic warranty via mail
Complete Care No Complete Care
Keyboard Backlit keyboard in orange, numeric and Portuguese layout
Ports 1 headphone jack (headphone and microphone combo) 1 Ethernet RJ45 port 3 USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports 1 HDMI 2.1 port 1 USB-C 3.2 Gen 2 port with DisplayPort™
Slots Not applicable
Dimensions Height: 2.69 cm Width: 35.72 cm Depth: 27.45 cm Weight: 2.81 kg
Camera 720p HD RGB camera at 30 fps with single integrated microphone
Audio and Speakers 1 headphone jack (headphone and microphone combo) Stereo speakers with Realtek ALC3254, 2 x 2.5 W
Chassis External chassis material: Plastic
LCD cover: Dark Shadow Gray (resin)
Hand rest: Graphite (paint) & Black (resin)
Wireless Intel® Wi-Fi 6 AX201, 2x2, 802.11ax, wireless network card with Bluetooth®
Main Battery 3-cell, 56 Wh battery (integrated)
Power 240 Watts AC adapter (Dual voltage)
Regulation Product safety, EMC, and environmental data sheets Dell standards compliance homepage Dell and the environment
https://www.dell.com/pt-bshop/notebooks-gamenotebook-gamer-dell-g15/spd/g-series-15-5530-laptop/g5530u001w?gacd=9657105-15015-5761040-275878141-0&dgc=ST&cid=71700000115426311&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw88yxBhBWEiwA7cm6pVxo4ccVXW4mN9DIvN2sf_86PZty1xBMjkNI-i-VQldbQ220kfQ1IBoCRhoQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Now the Acer:
Acer Nitro V15 • 13th Generation Intel® Core™ i5-13420H processor from the H series (High Edition) with 8 cores • 15.6" IPS display with Full HD resolution, 144Hz refresh rate • Nvidia® GeForce® RTX 3050 GPU with 6GB GDDR6 dedicated memory with total graphics power (TGP) of up to 80W • Thermal efficiency of 2 fans with various rotation modes • DDR5 RAM memory • 512GB NVMe SSD storage • Windows 11 Operating System • DTS® X: Ultra Audio Technology • Backlit keyboard in white with intensity adjustment • Nitro Sense shortcut key • Upgradeable • 2x Microphones • 15.6" screen • Power supply input • RJ-45 network cable port • HDMI®2.1 port • 2x USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports (5 Gbps) (with the second port on the left side powered) • ThunderboltTM 4 USB Type-C port • Backlit keyboard in white with intensity adjustment • Touchpad • Nitro Sense shortcut key • Power button • Power indicator LED • Battery indicator LED • Standard combo input for speaker and microphone • USB 3.2 Gen 1 port (5 Gbps) • Kensington lock • 2x 2 Watt stereo speakers • AcerTrueHarmony Technology • DTS® X: Ultra Audio Technology • Supported on Windows Spatial Sound for PC Gaming with integrated DTS license • Immersive audio rendering on headphones and internal speakers • 2x Microphones • Acer Purified Voice Technology with artificial intelligence background noise reduction • Cortana compatible with voice Wi-Fi cableless network: • Wi-Fi 6 AX • 802.11 a/b/g/n/ac R2 + ax wireless • Dual bands with frequencies of: 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz • Wi-Fi 6 support • 2x2 MU-MIMO technology • Bluetooth® 5.1 or higher support LAN wired network RJ-45: • 10/100/1000 Mbps • Hibernation mode support • Wake On Lan support • IPv4 (32 Bits) and IPv6 (128 Bits) support
The link : https://www.amazon.com.bNotebook-ANV15-51-58AZ-Gera%C3%A7%C3%A3o-Retroiluminado-Windows/dp/B0D1VV6NXS/ref=sr_1_1?__mk_pt_BR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&crid=BDOVGYUQ3SZ4&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.Y1Vnnz8g8zUfEXL7xMsLbcaFqtlFxpGYX8pYPDrTgqOi9KSnMylw6l_DzjsdoTu-XFRmjyTgv3PAXCsUfBJRHgP_up_W5GwKJJARZRMUwzmoKvb_gPMwNOVZAdkIVtc-1_05WCqnNUYHS--zBeNsrFqXLB2b4TpYkdgg39aRQnl5uAZXpxUtVzgwzqycI6atX17GQ0VXtOZtJpK1IooV6EJmcZfNvYLPCDIniln55Y2z6IYyky24-h8Gb6SxB393I4oHIU4NxUIgPQdC3F4gcFNxj8NDD3aTB0qEyIiC6eY.veIjh0MgwQxLdvo6DACL4XiapjnMV6k8XaZcQlRHKyU&dib_tag=se&keywords=acer+nitro+5+3050+6gb&qid=1714673184&sprefix=acer+nitro+5+3050+6g%2Caps%2C200&sr=8-1&ufe=app_do%3Aamzn1.fos.25548f35-0de7-44b3-b28e-0f56f3f96147

Hello everyone. I bought a brand new Acer Nitro 5 ANV15-51 laptop (Core i5 13420H 16GB / SSD 512GB / GeForce RTX 3050 6GB / NO OS / NH.QNCER.002). I installed Windows 11 as the operating system. It didn’t want to install right away, so I had to download the IRST driver from the official website onto a disk (https://www.acer.com/ru-ru/support/product-support/Nitro\_ANV15-51).
I installed it and logged in. I started downloading drivers from the same site in order. I followed the scheme: if the name and company are the same, I downloaded only the latest version. If different companies but one name, I downloaded both versions, because I don’t know exactly which manufacturer is in my version. I downloaded and got such a list:

XPERI DTS Utility_XPERI_1.11.14.0_W11x64_A GeForce_Experience_v3.28.0.412.exe Acer Care Center_Acer_4.00.3056_W11x64_A Airplane Mode_Acer_1.0.0.10_W11x64_A Audio Console_Acer_1.0.3.0_W11x64_A Audio Console_Realtek_1.47.309.0_W11x64_A Audio_Realtek_6.0.9579.1_W11x64_A Bluetooth_Intel_22.230.0.2_W11x64_A Bluetooth_MTK_1.1036.0.368_W11x64_A Chipset_Intel_10.1.36.7_W11x64_A DES Driver_Acer_1.0.0.3010_W11x64_A DPTF_Intel_9.0.11202.31222_W11x64_A Fingerprint_ELANTECH_3.6.11001.11201_W11x64_A Fingerprint_Synaptics_5.5.7.1124_W11x64_A Intel GNA_Intel_03.00.00.1457_W11x64_A IO Drivers_Intel_30.100.2221.20_W11x64_A IRST_Intel_19.5.1.1040_W11x64_A ISST_Intel_10.29.00.9467_W11x64_A Lan_Realtek_10.063.1014.2022_W11x64_A MgmtEngine_Intel_2306.4.3.0_W11x64_A Nitro Sense_Acer_4.5.975_20230809_W11x64_A Quick Access_Acer_3.00.3052_W11x64_A TouchPad_ELANTECH_27.6.1.1_W11x64_A TouchPad_Synaptics_19.0.25.11_W11x64_A VGA Utility_NVIDIA_31.0.15.4618_W11x64_A VGA_Intel_31.0.101.4146_W11x64_A VGA_NVIDIA_31.0.15.4618_W11x64_A Wireless LAN_Intel_22.230.0.8_W11x64_A Wireless LAN_MTK_3.3.0.852_W11x64_A XPERI DTS Utility_XPERI_2023.2.0.0_W11x64_A XPERI DTS_XPERI_1.11.10.0_W11x64_A 

All from the same official site. I installed them in the order of download. I installed the I/O drivers before installing the drivers for the touchpad/touchid, as stated on the official site. Then I realized that some drivers, such as for the touchpad, come from 2 companies, probably because different ones were used in different versions. But I installed both versions of the driver. For example, Symantec and Elantech. And after installing Elantech, it asked for a reboot. Then I looked in the device manager, it turns out I have Symantec, I ran install_drivers.cmd of semantec again (most drivers come with such a cmd or bat, which installs the drivers itself, I ran these files everywhere). But I noticed such a problem: the touchpad itself works fine, but the USB mouse somehow lags. Although the mouse itself on the PC and another laptop seems to work fine. Now I’m sitting here thinking, did I install extra drivers from here, or does Windows itself determine the necessary and unnecessary ones just not used? If not, then how to understand which ones are not needed and how to delete them now? All drivers at the same time seemed to install normally, except that `XPERI DTS Utility_XPERI_1.11.14.0_W11x64_A` gave some kind of error, but it seems this is just some kind of utility for managing audio, not critical and not related to the problem. Otherwise, everything seemed to install normally and after executing cmd/bat it showed “install completed successfully, press any key to exit”. Why might there be mouse lags? It seems to hang in some cases and appears in another place. Tried to insert into three different connectors, it is observed on all of them, while touchpad itself works just fine. Thanks in advance for your help.

Since I spent the past few days researching and trying to find decent replacement earpads and fixing my EQ with them I thought I'd write down my experience for anyone in a similiar situation.
​
First about myself.
After about 3 years of using, and loving, my X2HR as my daily drivers for casual music listening and gaming, the velour layer on the stock earpads started coming off, so I decided it was time to get new earpads. Despite what I've seen around a lot, I was very satisfied with the comfort of the stock earpads and frankly even when the velour came off, they were still decently comfortable for me.
I'm pretty new to the audiophile world and care about decent quality sound but wouldn't go above and beyond to achieve the "perfect sound" for me. I just need something that works for the majority of the things I do and isn't grating. I don't use a DAC or Amp and even stopped using EQ entirely after switching to a motherboard with a seemingly better audio codec (Realtek ALC1200 compared to ALC887).
​
The Earpads
Initially I had no idea they could affect the sound this much. I was happy with the stock earpads, but since Phillips doesn't appear to sell them (anymore?), I chose a random pair of 20€ replacements on Amazon with decent reviews. Unfortunately, once they arrived I realised they just wouldn't work.
At the risk of misusing some terminology here, my main gripes were that the bass was too pronounced and the voices muffled to the point where I just couldn't live with them. I tried EQing them a bit, but it wasn't enough of an improvement to keep them.
Now, having experienced the bad side, I decided to do some research and the only quality brand I could find that was readily available to me in Germany were the Dekoni Choice Suede for 55€.
It's pricey, considering I spent <100€ on my X2HR, but the sound quality was noticeably better (and comfort was also improved, although that wasn't an issue for me with either the stock of the ones from Amazon for me). The bass was still stronger than on the stock earpads, but voices were no longer muffled so I decided to stick with them and try to "fix" it with EQ.
​
EqualizerAPO
As I mentioned above, I stopped using EQ on my X2HR with the stock earpads after switching motherboards as I was satisfied with how they sounded then, but the Dekoni earpads still didn't sound quite what I was looking for so I decided to EQ them a bit more.
Since any attempts at EQing myself failed, I looked for other presets to compare them with the default sound. For that I mainly compared these 2:

1. The Harman Target EQ for the X2HR by u/oratory1990 from this list.
2. A suggestion I randomly came across by u/justformygoodiphone on this post.

In the end I decided that the preset by u/justformygoodiphone was the best for me, although I had to make some changes to make it work.
If you'd like to copy it into the Configuration Editor, open the config file (open the Configuration Editor > File > Open > right click on "config.txt" > open) or find the "config.txt" file in [install directory]\EqualizerAPO\config\ .
Now, rather than the post suggests to simply copy paste it all in one line into the config file, I had to format it exactly like this:

Preamp: -6 dB Include: example.txt GraphicEQ: 20 10; 25 8; 31.5 4.9; 40 3; 50 1; 63 0; 80 0; 100 -1; 125 -1; 160 -1; 200 -1; 250 -1.7; 315 0; 400 0; 500 0; 630 0; 800 0; 1000 0; 1250 1; 1600 -1.5; 2000 0; 2500 0; 3150 2; 4000 2.5; 5000 -1.5; 6300 3.5; 8000 -1; 10000 -2; 12500 6; 16000 4; 20000 4 

If the filters aren't each on a seperate line, everything past "Preamp: -6 dB" will likely get ignored (see here for more info).
You can still use the Peace GUI, but keep in mind that " # Include: peace.txt " must be included in the config.txt file (it should be if you already installed Peace and added the above in a new line without removing it) and "Include: peace.txt" has to be enabled in the Configuration Editor prior to starting up Peace, as it will ask you to replace the entire config file if you don't, deleting the other preset entirely.
I'd imagine an alternative would be to add this preset to Peace, or vice versa adding the Peace presets to the Configuration Editor, but unfortunately I'm not smart enough to translate them properly (If anyone can do that in the comments it would be much appreciated!). But this at least works.
​
Voicemeeter and making it work with EqualizerAPO
Now, while I liked this preset it was just a bit too quiet. I didn't want to just increase the pre-amp, so I figured I'd use Voicemeeter Banana to increase my global gain, but after installing Voicemeeter Banana, setting it up and installing/configuring EqualizerAPO for the Voicemeeter drivers, I wasn't able to run them both at the same time.
If you run into the same issue, I was able to fix it by opening the EqualizerAPO configurator (the one to install drivers) > click on Voicemeeter Input > check "Troubleshooting options" in the bottom left > Change the dropdown menu to "Install as LXF/GFX".
This made it so I could adjust both the EQ in EqualizerAPO and the gain in Voicemeeter.
​
This is likely a very specific issue, but I figured I'd write it down anyway just in case somebody runs into similar problems and could be helped out by this. And as I said, I'm by no means an authority on the topic, so if you have suggestions or feedback I'd really appreciate it!

Introduction
If you've delved into the realms of both headphones and speakers, you may have discovered that speakers offer a more immersive and, some argue, superior audio experience. Even Sean Olive, a renowned figure in the Harman headphone field, has said he generally prefers to listen to his speakers. There are many different “virtualization”-software that tries to emulate speaker sounds for headphones but if you’ve tried any of these, you’ll likely have found the result to sound quite horrible.
Fortunately, there's Impulcifer, a program made by u/jaakkopasanen, the guy behind AutoEQ. Impulcifer stands as a free alternative to the expensive solution Smyth Realizer A16, which carries a hefty price tag of $4,695 USD or 5,490 EUR. While it lacks certain features like headtracking and support for Dolby Atmos formats beyond 5.1.2, Impulcifer is still very impressive and more flexible than the A16.
I've assembled this guide for my own future reference and decided to share it here in case others are willing to embark on this journey. Beware though that it will cost you blood, sweat and tears (well not quite but it’ll cost you money, time, and a whole lot of patience). Yet, the rewards are substantial. In the end, you'll get audio quality surpassing even great speaker setups.
Here's why Impulcifer surpasses traditional speakers:

1. Elimination of Room Modes: Unlike speakers, headphones aren't affected by room acoustics, allowing for correction of nulls that speakers can't address.
2. Subbass without expensive sub: It is far easier to get headphones playing sounds down to 20 Hz than it is for a subwoofer. Subwoofer generally needs to be big and / or expensive to get down to 20 Hz at higher volumes.
3. Virtual Room Treatment: Impulcifer can digitally reduce reverb time, eliminating the need for physical room treatment.
4. Neighbor-Friendly Volume: Headphones enable louder listening without disturbing neighbors or other people in the household, unlike traditional speakers.

Following this guide, you can recreate a "true" 2.0, 5.1.2 (Dolby Atmos), or 7.1 setup within your headphones, free from the limitations associated with conventional speakers. By customizing to your own Head-Related Transfer Function (HRTF), the result is an audio experience indistinguishable from a high-end speaker setup, setting it apart from other virtual surround solutions for headphones.

Recommended Equipment

• Headphones: Preferably comfortable open-back ones. Closed backs and uncomfortable headphones will work but may not provide the same illusion of a true speaker setup. I use the HD600, HD800, and Focal Clears.
• Speaker: A single decent speaker is sufficient. Recommended: Swissonic speakers from Thomann.de, particularly the A3- and V-series. These models offer excellent quality for their price. (Refer to measurements by ErinsAudioCorner for A305 and A306.)
• 7.1 Surround DAC (DAC): Can be either an internal PC soundcard or an external device. A stereo DAC suffices for emulating a stereo speaker setup, but this guide will assume you have a 7.1 capable DAC. I use the onboard Realtek audio on my motherboard.
• Headphone Amplifier (HP Amp): Can be integrated into the DAC. Note that Impulcifer requires a stronger Amp than traditional headphone usage if you wish to avoid clipping in all circumstances. I use the FiiO K7 which is “just enough” on the unbalanced output.
• Windows PC: Impulcifer works on Mac and Linux, but this guide requires EqualizerAPO, which is only available on Windows.
• In-ear Binaural Microphones (IEBM): Small IEBMs are essential to fit inside ear canals for personalized HRTF capture. It’s important that they truly are inside the ear canal for the best results. I use a Soundman OKM I with the Soundman D1 interface. OKM Mics, however, needs to be modified to work. I cut off the spikes and sandpapered them down until I could fit them inside my ear canals.
• Room Measurement Microphone (RMM): The go-to option here is the Umik-1 from MiniDSP.
• Microphone Stand: A simple, inexpensive stand suffices. Fasten RMM using tape and zip ties if necessary.
• Marker for Ear Position: Creativity is key. Example: Use sewing thread across the room to mark the exact ear position at the MLP. There is also a webcam alternative over at the Impulcifer guide.
• Bass Shakers: Optional for enhanced enjoyment and subwoofer emulation. I use the Bass Pump III 4 ohm shakers.
• Subwoofer Amplifier: Optional. Recommended power: 50W or higher. (Example: Fosi Audio M04 100W Amplifier)
• AVR: Necessary for decoding Dolby Atmos and DTS:X signals and height channels. Full set of pre-outs required. eARC is necessary if you wish to use your TV as a source. I use the Denon X4400H.
• Audio Interface: Necessary to transfer decoded signals from AVR back to PC. Requires 8+ inputs. (Example: Behringer UMC 1820, which also works as 2x decently strong headphone amplifiers). It would theoretically work with multiple Audio Interfaces that has fewer inputs, but I haven’t tried this personally. Don’t worry about the Analog-to-Digital conversion as this shouldn’t have any noticeable effect on sound quality so long as the Audio Interface is of decent quality.

Cables:

• RCA/Aux cables – For connecting the DAC to speakers and amplifiers, and the Audio Interface to the AVR.
• Speaker cables – For connecting the Bass shakers to the Subwoofer amplifier.
• USB-C cable – For connecting the RMM to the PC.
• HDMI cable – For connecting the PC or TV to the AVR.

Software:

• Equalizer APO
• HeSuvi
• Unlimited VST-plugin
• VB-audio Matrix

Cost Estimate: The cost will depend on what you already have. Provided that you already have a headphone setup and a PC, all you need is a 7.1 Surround DAC, a pair of IEBM and a Microphone stand (approximate cost 150-200 euros). Unless you already have a sufficient AVR the cost to get Atmos will be expensive, however. The cheapest option for that will be buying used and getting the most inexpensive eARC Atmos AVR with pre-outs you can find.

Step 0 – Preparation

1. Ensure all necessary equipment and programs are properly installed and functioning. Confirm that you have everything required to complete the process without interruption.
2. Familiarize yourself with the REW program if you haven't already. Explore all panels and settings to orient yourself.
3. Familiarize yourself with the EqualizerAPO program and the Configuration Editor if needed. Review all options and settings, ensuring correct installation and functionality. Consider removing PeaceGUI if installed, as this guide does not incorporate it and potential interference may occur.
4. Review the Impulcifer guide (https://github.com/jaakkopasanen/Impulcifer) and the HeadFi Thread (https://www.head-fi.org/threads/recording-impulse-responses-for-speaker-virtualization.890719).
5. Position your speakers where you'll primarily listen to the headphones. Ideally, place them at ear height in the room's center for symmetry. Set up a stool or chair at the MLP (Main Listening Position) for easy observation in all directions with your head and body aligned. To properly capture your HRTF you need to turn your whole body and not just your head when looking at different directions.

Now you're prepared to begin the guide.

Step 1 – In-ear Microphone Calibration
For accurate measurements, calibrate your in-ear microphones using the following steps:

1. Obtain your calibrated RMM file from the manufacturer's website.
2. Input your RMM calibration file into REW.
3. Position your in-ear microphones next to your RMM using zip ties or tape for stability.
4. Play a sine sweep on your speaker and measure the response with the RMM.
5. Repeat the process with the left in-ear microphone.
6. Utilize “Trace Arithmetic” to subtract the first measurement from the second to obtain calibration values for the IEBM.
7. Export the calibration values as a .txt or .csv file and input this calibration file for your left in-ear microphone in REW.
8. Repeat steps 5-7 for the right in-ear microphone.

Now you have a pair of calibrated in-ear microphones ready for use in REW. Do note that IEBM aren’t necessarily accurate above 7 kHz and especially above 10 kHz.

Step 2 – Speaker Calibration
While not strictly necessary, calibrating your speaker will enhance accuracy and make later steps easier:

1. Create an RTA measurement around the MLP in REW by playing full-range pink noise. Recommended RTA settings: Mode: RTA 1/48 octave, Smoothing: 1/12 smoothing, FFT Length: 64k, Averages: Forever, Window: Rectangular, Max Overlap: 50%
2. Appearance: Check "Use bars on RTA," "Adjust RTA levels," and "Show peak SPL for tone bursts."
3. Determine your preferred house curve, such as Harman's speaker curves or a traditional -1 dB per octave tilt (resulting in a -10dB tilt from 20 Hz to 20 kHz). Import this curve into REW.
4. Create EQ filters in REW to match the response to your chosen house curve.
5. Export the filter settings as text and use them to calibrate your speaker in EqualizerAPO.

Now you have a calibrated speaker ready for further measurements.

Step 3 – Finding your Personal HRTF
This step isn’t necessary if you're using Impulcifer for headphone correction. However, if you plan to use different headphones with Impulcifer or desire a traditional EQ profile tailored to your HRTF, then follow these steps:

1. Position yourself at the MLP (Main Listening Position), insert your IEBM, and measure your speaker response with your left and right ears individually. Average these measurements.
2. Mark the exact spatial location of each ear. Consider using a mic stand or any creative method.
3. Place your IEBM at the marked positions and measure the left IEBM at the location of your left ear, then repeat for the right IEBM and right ear. Average these measurements.
4. Divide ("A / B") the first averaged measurement by the second averaged measurement, apply 1/12 smoothing.
5. Export the resulting measurement as "HRTF.txt" or "HRTF.csv".

Congratulations! You now have your personalized HRTF (for sounds directly in front of you).

Step 4 – Creating a Personal Headphone Target Curve
Assuming you have generated a HRTF.txt or .csv file and identified a preferred house curve, follow these steps to create a headphone target curve tailored to your HRTF:

1. Import your HRTF.txt file as a frequency response.
2. Import your preferred house curve as a frequency response.
3. Combine ("A * B") the two measurements.
4. Export the resulting measurement as "Headphone Target Curve.txt".

You now possess a personalized headphone target curve suitable for use with any over-ear headphones.

Step 5 – EQ’ing your Headphones
With your personal headphone target curve established, you can now adjust your headphones' EQ to match your speakers' tone closely:

1. Measure each headphone earcup individually with your IEBM.
2. If channel imbalances are negligible, average the two measurements; otherwise, perform separate EQ adjustments for each channel.
3. Under the EQ tab, import your personal headphone target curve as a house curve. Create PEQ filters to align your headphones with your house curve.
4. Export the resulting filters as .txt and import them into APO using the Configuration Editor.

Voila! You now have a personalized EQ profile for your headphones, applicable even with Poweramp Equalizer for Android.

Step 6 – Impulcifer Measurements
Now onto the exciting part that generates the HRIR file, which accurately emulates your speakers. I recommend thoroughly reviewing the Impulcifer guide (https://github.com/jaakkopasanen/Impulcifer) until you feel comfortable with all the instructions.

1. Follow the installation steps outlined in the Impulcifer guide to set up everything you need: Git, Python 3.8 (note that newer versions may not work), and Microsoft Visual C++.
2. The Impulcifer guide allows for either a 7.1 speaker setup, a stereo setup, or a mono speaker setup for measurements. I personally suggest using the single-speaker setup to ensure maximum symmetry between the different channels.
3. Decide on the type of speaker setup you want to emulate. If you're aiming for a 7.1 setup, you can use the angles provided in the Impulcifer guide. For a 5.1.2 or 5.1 setup, I recommend following the Dolby guidelines available here instead (https://www.dolby.com/about/support/guide/speaker-setup-guides/5.1.2-overhead-speaker-setup-guide/). Note that I use a 20–25-degree angle for the front speakers instead of the traditional 30 degrees, as I've found the latter to create a too wide front stage when used with Impulcifer. Similarly, I prefer a narrower setup for height channels compared to Dolby's recommendations, but this is a matter of personal preference.
4. Using a protractor, mark the locations where you'll be positioned when taking measurements. Below is an example assuming a 5.1.2 setup, but the same principle applies to a 7.1 setup as well:

• 25° to the right of the speaker
• 0° facing the speaker
• 25° to the left of the speaker
• 110° to the left of the speaker
• 25° to the right of the speaker, just in front of the Main Listening Position (MLP) on the floor
• 25° to the left of the speaker, just in front of the MLP on the floor
• 110° to the right of the speaker

1. Open CMD and start Python using the following commands:
   cd Impulcifer venv\Scripts\activate
   
2. Insert your IEBM and position yourself at the MLP. Now, proceed to take measurements with Python:
   

o FL (Front Left) – Look 25° to the right of the speaker

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" --record="data/my_hriFL.wav" 

o C (Center) – Look directly at the speaker

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" --record="data/my_hriFC.wav" 

o FR (Front Right) – Look 25° to the left of the speaker

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" --record="data/my_hriFR.wav" 

o SR (Surround Right) – Look 110° to the left of the speaker

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" --record="data/my_hriSR.wav" 

o TMR (Top Middle Right) – Look 25° to the left of the speaker, just in front of the MLP on the floor

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" --record="data/my_hriTMR.wav" 

o TML (Top Middle Left) – Look 25° to the right of the speaker, just in front of the MLP on the floor

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" --record="data/my_hriTML.wav" 

o SL (Surround Left) – Look 110° to the right of the speaker

python recorder.py --play="data/sweep-seg-FL-stereo-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.wav" 

Step 7 – HRIR-file Generation with Impulcifer
To generate the HRIR-file, follow these steps within the Impulcifer tool:
1: Navigate to the "my_hrir" folder within Impulcifer and locate the "TMR.wav" and "TML.wav" files.
2: Rename "TMR.wav" to "BR.wav" and "TML.wav" to "BL.wav" to align with Impulcifer's processing of channels as rear surround channels.
3: Next, execute the following command to commence processing:

python impulcifer.py --test_signal="data/sweep-6.15s-48000Hz-32bit-2.93Hz-24000Hz.pkl" --dir_path="data/my_hrir" --target_level=-12 --no_room_correction --no_headphone_compensation --fs=48000 --decay=200 --plot 

Here's what each parameter does:

• target_level: Sets a target gain for the HRIR-file to avoid clipping. -12 will avoid clipping for most circumstances. It doesn’t really matter though as a preamp can be used in APO later regardless.
• no_room_correction: Skip room correction as it was previously applied in step 2 and will be further adjusted in REW in step 8.
• no_headphone_compensation: No headphone compensation applied to create a general profile. Since this guide aims to create a general profile that can be used with different headphones, no headphone correction is desired. You also have the EQ profile from step 5 that can be used in tandem with the HRIR-file for the same results.
• fs: Sets the sample rate of the HRIR-file. Unless you have a very specific reason to change it the default of 48000 should be fine. There aren’t any audible differences between sample rates.
• decay: Adjusts reverberation time to personal preference. This parameter lets you cut down on reverberation time. I can’t tell you what decay-value is best because it is dependent on preference and how your particular speaker measurements. I’ve personally found a value of 200 to work well because it cuts down on bass ringing without reducing the reverb too much.
• plot: Generates plots for measurement visualization. They aren’t strictly necessary but very useful if you want to troubleshoot or are simply curious about your measurements.
• Additional commands and information are available in the Impulcifer guide.

4: Rename the newly generated “hesuvi.wav” file to something appropriate: for example, “5.1.2 Decay 200.wav”
5: In APO, activate HeSuVi by adding the "hesuvi.txt" file (located here: C:\Program files\EqualizerAPO\config\HeSuVi) to APO's Configuration Editor before your headphone EQ-filters.
6: Copy the renamed "5.1.2 Decay 200.wav" file to "C:\Program Files\EqualizerAPO\config\HeSuVi\hrir".
7: Open the HeSuVi GUI and select “5.1.2 Decay 200”.
Now, you'll experience speaker-like sound from your headphones, creating an immersive listening experience.

Step 8 – Fine-tuning with REW
While optional, fine-tuning in REW can enhance your headphone sound further. Potential room modes captured by Impulcifer can be mitigated. A lack of sub-bass can also be fixed.

1. In REW, with both headphone EQ and HeSuVi enabled in APO, measure FL and FR speakers with each IEBM separately.
2. You now have 4 measurements. Sum ("A + B") the measurements of FL and FR speakers respectively. Then average these two summated measurements.
3. Match the combined speaker response to your Personal Headphone Target Curve in the EQ tab, addressing any room modes and sub-bass deficiencies.
4. Export the PEQ-filters as .txt.
5. Import the PEQ-filters into APO, ensuring they're placed after HeSuVi in APO's Configuration Editor

Now, enjoy an enhanced audio experience surpassing traditional speakers when using headphones.

Step 9 – Setting up Atmos Routing
This step is exclusively for those opting for the Atmos route.
1: Connect your source (PC or TV) to your AVR using HDMI. Ensure Dolby Atmos is installed from the Windows store if using a PC. Set the AVR as the default audio device in Windows to transmit Dolby Atmos properly.
2: Ensure all settings in the AVR are neutral: no EQ, compression, or level differences between channels. Set speakers to Large without any crossovers, maintaining equal distances between speakers. Configure your AVR to match your surround setup, e.g., 5.1.2 with a pair of Top Mid Speakers.
3: Connect the pre-outs on your AVR to the inputs on your Audio Interface. For UMC 1820, follow these suggested routings:

• FL > 1
• FR > 2
• FC > 3
• LFE > 4
• Height L > 5
• Height R > 6
• SL > 7
• SR > 8

4: Open VB-Audio Matrix, select your Audio Interface under ASIO Devices, and your Surround DAC under Windows devices. Choose WDM if ASIO isn’t available; MME works but with higher latency and processing costs.
5: Press the Matrix button and route channels accordingly:

• 1 > FL
• 2 > FR
• 3 > FC
• 4 > LFE
• 5 > BL (Height L)
• 6 > BR (Height R)
• 7 > SL
• 8 > SR

6: Select the lowest buffering values for your devices without audio dropouts. The lowest possible values has been working for me, i.e. 8 samples (with safe mode) for ASIO UMC 1820 and 128 samples for WDM for the 7.1 Surround DAC.
With these steps completed, you’ll enjoy “true” Dolby Atmos just like a proper 5.1.2 setup.

Step 10 – Setting up Bass Shakers
Bass shakers are optional but recommended for an enhanced immersion.

1. Connect your shaker(s) to the Subwoofer Amp, then connect the Subwoofer Amp to the LFE channel output on your Surround DAC.
2. In APO Configuration Editor, after HeSuVi, route all channels to LFE using the Copy-function.
3. Set up a Low-pass filter using either PEQ Filters or a variable Graphic EQ. I suggest having the shaker play up to 50 Hz, but your mileage may vary depending on preferences, the shaker’s instalment, and the shaker’s quality.
4. Use the Channel-function in APO, selecting all channels except LFE, and place a decay function under the channel function.
5. Adjust the decay function in APO until shakers feel synchronized with headphone bass. You can play a song with a steady bass line to make it easier, for example the beginning of Sam Smiths “In the City”. When the shakers are poorly matched, they will feel “slower” and more “rumbly”. If they are well matched the shakers will feel more “tight” and “punchy”. In my experience, the shakers will likely be quite late compared to the headphones. I personally use a decay of 102 ms on all channels but the shakers

Done! You will now have an improved bass sound that feels punchy like at the club and in the movie theatres.

Extra 1 – Nearfield Impulcifer Measurements
With your APO setup effectively emulating speaker sound in headphones at the Main Listening Position (MLP), it's important to note the nuances of psychoacoustics. The HeSuVi-profile might not perfectly replicate the sound when sitting very close to the supposed source, like a computer or phone screen. In such cases, creating an additional HeSuVi-profile with Impulcifer can be beneficial. Another scenario is when you need a dry sound, especially for competitive FPS games like Valorant, where hearing subtle details is crucial.
In addition to my regular profile, I've developed a nearfield profile by conducting measurements at less than 0.4 meters. This yields a dry "headphone sound" that maintains a sense of space while enhancing localization, akin to a surround setup. For this profile, emulating a 7.1 speaker setup suffices.
To create this nearfield HeSuVi-profile, replicate Step 2 and Steps 6-8, ensuring the speaker is positioned very close to you. It's advisable to use smaller bookshelf speakers, as larger tower speakers may pose challenges in providing a single point source. Ideally, consider using coaxial speakers such as KEF speakers although smaller bookshelf speakers also work well.

Extra 2 – Different Speaker Setups
Consider creating a 7.1 profile alongside a 5.1.2 profile, allowing you to switch between them based on content type. For example, you can use the 5.1.2 profile for movies and series and the 7.1 profile for games that don't support Atmos. Take additional measurements under Step 6, organizing them into distinct folders for rear channels and height channels to avoid confusion in the processing stage.
Moreover, you can craft a 2.0 profile for platforms like JamesDSP on Android by retaining only the "FL.wav" and "FR.wav" files within the "my_hrir" folder and executing the processing command.

Extra 3 – Multiple People
The downside of having headphones instead of speakers is that it’s a lonesome experience. Personally, while consuming content with someone else the main attraction isn’t really having the best surround sound, so a regular stereo speaker setup is plenty for that. It is, however, possible to use multiple Impulcifer setups simultaneously. For this you will need another surround DAC (and potentially headphone amplifier). To do this you repeat step 3-8 for the other person. Thereafter, you will need to use VB-Audio Matrix to copy the audio from the first surround DAC to the second one. Note that this can introduce some latency for the second surround DAC. To fix this, you can use APOs decay-function to delay the first surround DAC to match the second one.

Extra 4 – Fixing channel imbalances in REW
Ideally, you’d retake the Impulcifer measurements until you get a set of measurements that works just perfectly. This can be difficult though and may take many tries. Some guys over at HeadFi have done upwards of 50+ sets of measurements. Personally, I did around 5-10 sets of measurements before I found out what works best for me. You can try to vary the speaker angle, distance to speaker, different speakers, different speaker placements, etc.
If you want to “fix” (to some extent) an imperfect set of measurement you can use REW to measure individual channels to then match them together. For example, you can measure SL and SR and then EQ the SR to match SL (or vice versa). Note that having a perfectly matched set of opposing channels isn’t necessarily ideal as our ears aren’t necessarily symmetrical.
If you want to measure a particular channel you can use APOs “Copy-function” to route sounds from FL and FR to SL and SR, for example. You should also measure but the left IEBM and right IEBM and then sum (“A + B”) these channels together to get the correct speaker response for that channel.
It’s also possible to fix the timing differences in REW and APO. If you did your measurements with one speaker from the same MLP then this shouldn’t be necessary as all speakers should take the same time to reach your ears. Regardless, you can use the “Use Acoustic Timing Difference” function in REW to measure the delay of different speakers compared to a reference point (the FL speaker for example). You can then fix these delay differences in APO using the “Decay-function”.

Extra 5 – More volume without clipping
Firstly, you should adjust the preamp in APO to avoid any red in the analysis panel to ensure no clipping will occur. For stereo content a positive gain of +12 dB won’t produce any clipping as it shows the summation of all channels. If all surround channels (including LFE) play at full blast simultaneously then clipping could occur but this scenario is highly unlikely.
If you want to be safe though you can use negative preamp values to get the peak gain below 0 dB. After that, you can use the VST-Plugin called Unlimited to drive the volume up while avoiding clipping. I use the following settings:
o Thres: -15 dB
o Out: 0 dB
o CenteLFE/Surround: 0 dB
o Character: 0.0
o Response: 1.0
o Monitor: All
Unlimited needs to be placed after HeSuVi inside the APO Configuration Editor. Also, it will show up as +15 dB gain in the analysis panel but don’t worry, Unlimited will compress when necessary to avoid clipping.

Extra 6 – Graphic EQ instead of PEQ Filters
If you want to use Graphic EQ instead of PEQ-filters it is possible to do so in REW. Instead of using the EQ panel you will import your target curve as a frequency response measurement. Then you subtract (“A / B”) the response you wish to equalize with the target curve. You now get the calibration file (i.e. Graphic EQ values) that can be exported as a .csv file and then imported to APO or Wavelet for example.

Soundbar should've minimum one hdmi in port or optical port.
FOR HDMI CONNECTION: take the HDMI cable and insert one part to your soundbar's HDMI IN port and another part of cable insert in your GPU's HDMI port. This will be HDMI Digital output and it supports dolby atmos, dts x, dolby digital.
FOR OPTICAL(IF you have optical port in your motherboard): connect one optical site to soundbar and another part to your motherboard's. This will be Realtek digital device. This supports only Dolby digital and dts x. No support of dolby atmos here.

Greetings forums;
I know this question has been debate over and over gain. But I still am hesitating, damn you adhd... What was I saying... Oh yes, my dilemma. Now I know that LGA 17000 is dead, but all the kinks have been ironed out. And all those memory issues at AM5 launch when combine with the X3d chips reminded me the historical failures of the Phenom or the FX-8150... And let's face it, all those Ryzen 7000-series burning early last year didn't ease my peace of mind. Where was I going with this, oh yeah Intel vs AMD. My Case, PSU, SSD's and all that are selected and in my shopping cart waiting on me to check out. I only need to add an appropriate 32GB ram kit to go along with the option that I will ultimately choose, will check QVL at that point.
Let's face it, the bottle neck of this build in a few years will not be the CPU, it will come down to GPU. I ran my last build on X99, and used it for 10 years now, only upgrading the CPU once and the GPU once along the way. To my current 1080ti paired with a i7-5960X. So by the time I upgrade again AM5 will probably be in EoL anyways.
Option 1)
Intel Build (No upgrade path aside from a 14900k down the line... maybe)
CPU: 13600k (267$ US)
Mobo: MSI MEG Z790 ACE (491$ US)
Combo Mega Deal: 574$ US
GPU: powercolor HellHound 7800xt (506$ US)
Total: 1081$ US
Option 2)
AM5 AMD Build (upgrade path, 7800x3d or future generation on AM5)
CPU: Ryzen 5 7600x (209$ US)
Mobo: B650 Taichi Lite (288$ US)
Combo deal (none): 498$ US
GPU: Gigabyte RTX 4070 Super AERO OC 12G (667.25$ US)
Total: 1164$ US
Option 3)
AM5 AMD Build (upgrade path, see above)
CPU: Ryzen 5 7700x (332$ US)
Mobo: MSI MAG X670E Tomahawk (303$ US)
Combo minor deal: 623$ US
GPU: powercolor HellHound 7800xt (506$ US)
Total: 1130$ US
Reasoning behind the options:
Option 1: Marginally lower cost, only by a 100$. But I get a top of the line Mobo, that will allow me to have room for OC, an insane 5 M.2 Slots, A superior audio solution Realtek ALC4082 Codec + ESS ES9280AQ Combo DAC/HPA. A crazy over the top VRM (24+1+2 DUET RAIL POWER SYSTEM). Stability of the 13th gen and the Z790 platform is solid, no unknowns.
Option 2: Lower end CPU to wait for other generations of AM5 CPUs, use the savings to go for a 4070 super. High end Mobo, (24+2+1 Phase Power Design, SPS for VCore+GT) A superior audio solution identical to option 1 and a still very respectable 3 M.2. AM5 had a very rocky start and without a dedicated scheduler on the substrate the x3d isn't always parking the right cores. (see JayzTwoCents video). Not mentioning the longer memory training times.
Option 3: More powerfull CPU then option 2, a better chipset (X670), 4 M.2 slots, but a weaker audio Realtek ALC1200 Codec, weakest of the power delivery option 14+2+1 DUET RAIL POWER SYSTEM.
The goal was to keep the cost of the 3 core components, (CPU, MOBO and GPU) under 1200$ US and get the most out of the cash. Option 3 is the least attracting to me because of the lower power delivery option and audio. But it is within the price. Now option 1 has an insane mobo with all the bells and whistles. They are literally giving away the CPU with the combo price. Option 2 on the other hand does offer an upgrade path, in case they launch a last CPU at the EoL like the 5700X3D for AM4. But I am avoiding the X3d for now because of all the memory issues and weird kinks.
I am really torn between option 1 and 2, with the intel on top at the moment.
What do you folks think ?

I've been working on a GPUless tower for a bit, and it's been having a few sound issues. I use some shitty off the shelf speakers that i can't for the life of me find the refs for, because they're like, 10 years old, but they're serviceable, and they used to work on that machine.
Today though I've added a brand new ASUS Dual geforce rtx 4060ti and ever since, those speakers don't work on the tower, although they work fine everywhere else. i'm not sure what's happenning. i've tried rebooting, running the troubleshooter, deactivating all other sound exits, updating the drivers and now i'm kind of out of ideas. the pc sees the speakers, tells me it's playing sounds, and when i use a bluetooth headset sound does come out of it, and yet no sound comes out of the speaker. I even deactivated all other audio output, as you can see on the screenshot.
Any ideas?
[EDIT]
After some more digging and jury rigging I plugged a shitty tv monitor that has jacks into the gpu and then plugged in the speakers into that monitor. It fucking works. I think my gpu just straight up refuses to acknowledge the drivers that do not go through it. It's a really shitty monitor, and my gpu only has a single hdmi port, the others are display ports, so I can't just keep both my shitty monitor and my decent one at the same time. Guess I'm ordering some hdmi to display cables. I'd like to have my CPU jacks serve some kind of purpose and not get overriden tho.
https://preview.redd.it/kbudg7btggtc1.png?width=1920&format=png&auto=webp&s=512b4c59f2489a7582310b3bb3f61cf7216a5001

I have a Realtek ALC1200 on my MSI motherboard. I wanted to be able to hear my voice in my headphones, but the "listen to this device" option in the microphone properties menu gives an unacceptable delay due to the audio having to be processed by software, I guess?
I had heard that sidetone was a slider option in the speakers advanced device properties menu, but it didn't show up for me on the most recent driver from my motherboard manufacturer (6.0.9629.1). After waaaay too many hours wasted snooping the internet and trying old drivers, I found that the newest Realtek driver that offers me the missing slider is a generic one from the Microsoft update catalog (6.0.9305.1), from January 2022.
What's up? Why was this removed? Or am I just not finding the correct drivers for this device? If anyone knows a better solution than this (without buying more hardware!) please let me know.

Hi all.
I’m looking for a good mid-range board for a new AMD gaming build which will have great onboard audio. The ones I’ve checked out reviews for have all said their audio codecs are outdated and of poor quality.
I’m not prepared to buy a high-end board just for the better onboard audio because all these boards seem really solid and have all the bells and whistles I need.
The ones I’ve checked out so far are: * MSI X670 Tomahawk WiFi (acceptable but dated audio codec Realtek ALC1200 Codec) * MSI MAG X670E Tomahawk WiFi (acceptable but dated audio codec Realtek ALC1200 Codec) * MSI X670E Gaming Plus WiFi (dated budget audio codec Realtek ALC897)
So my questions are:
A. What are the current Realtek ALC codecs that are good?
B. Are the ones I’ve listed really that bad?
D. Should I just accept the onboard audio is what it is and buy a good sound card?
Thank you for all your help in advance!

Built a PC in 2020 with the following specs.

• Gigabyte X570 AORUS Elite (AMD Ryzen 3000/X570/ATX/PCIe4.0/DDR4/USB3.1/Realtek ALC1200/Front USB Type-C/RGB Fusion 2.0/M.2 Thermal Guard/Gaming Motherboard)
• AMD Radeon RX 5700 XT 8GB AXRX 5700XT 8GBD6-3DHE/OC
• AMD Ryzen 5 3600 6-Core, 12-Thread
• EVGA 220-GA-0750-X1 Super Nova 750 Ga, 80 Plus Gold 750WCorsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 X 8GB) DDR4 3600 MHz

I have about $1,200 I can spend and would love some advice on how to upgrade. Would like to be able to play Hell Divers. I do not have a 4k monitor. Thank you for any help!

Hello, I've been saving up for months to build my first gaming PC and have been researching components. I have an old hard disk from my previous PC that's no longer functional, and my friend lent me his old GTX 1660 Ti. However, I'm on a tight budget and lack experience in building PCs. I've compiled a list of components, but I'm hoping to reduce costs further. Additionally, I plan to upgrade to an RTX 4060 Ti in the future, so I'd like a PC that can support it without bottlenecking. Here are the components I've selected; could you please suggest any alternatives or if there is something i need add to the list? Thanks.
Cabinet - DEEPCOOL MATREXX 55 MESH ADD-RGB 4F Mid-Tower Tempered Glass, Alloy Steel Gaming Cabinet/Computer Case with 4 ARGB Fans Pre-Install, Support Mini-ITX/Micro-ATX/ATX/E-ATX (RGB) https://amzn.in/d/8WtaPxZ
Processor - AMD 5000 Series Ryzen 5 5600X Desktop Processor 6 cores 12 Threads 35 MB Cache 3.7 GHz Upto 4.6 GHz AM4 Socket 500 Series Chipset (100-100000065BOX) https://amzn.in/d/2HPMkv6
Motherboard - Gigabyte B550 AORUS Elite V2 (AMD Ryzen 5000/B550/ATX/PCIe4.0/DDR4/USB3.2 Gen 1/Realtek ALC1200/M.2/2.5 GbE LAN/HDMI/DP/Gaming Motherboard) https://amzn.in/d/b4wGHKU
Ram - G.Skill Ripjaws V 16GB (1 * 16GB) DDR4 3600 MHz CL18-22-22-42 Desktop Memory RAM - F4-3600C18S-16GVK https://amzn.in/d/fRDp5yS
PSU - Deepcool PK550D, 550 Watt, 80 Plus Bronze Certified Power Supply/PSU for Gaming PC - R-PK550D-FA0B-UK https://amzn.in/d/1lsc1hZ

This is a new laptop running Windows 11.
The first problem I experienced was it not detecting the mic of my headset plugged into the left 3.5mm jack. After about an hour of searching I was able to find the solution: Realtek Audio Console (pre-installed) -> Device advanced settings -> Connector Retasking -> ANALOG Dropdown -> Headset. I don't know why it's buried under garbage results like "install Realtek HD Audio Manager" or why it's not the default behavior. Maybe it's an OS issue? I didn't have trouble with the same headset on Windows 10 (also Realtek); just plug-and-play.
Anyway, now I'm trying to figure out why the built-in speaker volume is so damn low. It sounds as if it were coming through a headset left lying on my desk. All search results are something about DTS and I'm confident that's not the solution (but maybe I'm confidently incorrect). I would be surprised, though, considering it requires an external device to be connected.
No, my headset isn't plugged in.
Yes, I've verified the volume isn't turned town anywhere (system, mixer, youtube, etc.).
Edit
To solve this
Device Manager -> Audio Processing Objects (APOs) -> DTS Audio Effects Components -> Right-click -> Update Driver -> Search automatically for drivers -> Search for updated drivers on Windows Update
Windows Update -> Advanced options -> Optional updates -> DTS - Audo Processing object - 1.14.0.0
Now, DTS:X Ultra is correctly detecting my internal speakers and the volume is normal.

I tried a lot of "audio managers" but at the point, I realized that there is nothing better than the old "Realtek sound manager" for comfortably using a PC (in a sound aspect) I even tried "FxSound" and at this moment — it was the best, but unfortunately, it's "bugy" and even caused a few "crashes" for games and Windows itself So I still searching for two variants: 1) Install older version of "Realtek Sound manager" 2) Found something better And yes, I know about the "Sound manager" that instals with drivers and specific for this MB but unfortunately — it's su... bad... U can see on the screenshot which one I have at the moment ^^ (calls "dts custom")

I have HyperX Stinger 2 and it doesn't show in sound playback devices, only as 2- Realtek speakers, the sound and mic work just fine, but i can't use Dts cuz my headphones are recocnised as speakers.