I’m in the middle of buying a new house. My credit score I had been monitoring through credit wise and through credit karma was 819. My lender just ran my credit and it is coming up as 738 through transunion/experian.
How is it possible that my score is so far off?!
Also have no idea why it would be that low. Bought my first house 9 years ago with 770 credit. Have not had one late payment. Paid off my car loan and student loans last few years. No credit card debt. My only debt is the house.
Only thing I can think of is I just paid 5% deposit on the house before the credit was run which was a huge chunk of my savings. Could that be the reason?

Has any been able to do this? I have a Leander that is saying they can do it for me and put me on an accelerated payment plan which looks very appealing and we plan to sell in 2 years anyway. They can’t do a HELOC based on my debt to income. I only have our home and 3 small credit cards with no balances. We have over 200k equity in our home but my Transunion credit score is only a 660. I just do not want to get screwed bc it’s happened in the past.

Recently I made a TransUnion account to check my credit report. When I opened my online banking app, I found out that I had been charged $28.19. I thought my card was only needed to check my credit score, unaware that I was purchasing a subscription. I immediately sent them an email, but received no response. The next day, I called customer service at (855) 681-3196 and the agent asked for my contact information. She then promptly cancelled my membership and issued a full refund.
I wanted to share this because a lot of people are getting charged without informed consent. TransUnion should have a clear, transparent billing and cancellation process. Please read carefully before signing up and check your bank accounts!

Hello, i have a big question. So i have a long life friend who is 22 years old who has a bad credit “ he ruined it” (460 fico score) does not have a bank account only through cash app but he is willing to work and open a account on a legitimate bank and is struggling to bring his credit up, and i was thinking if I add him as a authorized user on my amex card or any of my cards will it help him ? And if i do add him will it hurt my fico score? Because if in the case that it doesn’t hurt my credit score and i make him my authorized user I will not give him the card I will hide it in my safe. But i just wanted to know if it will hurt my fico score if I add him. My credit scores are Equifax-724 Experian-726 Transunion-742 CC that is own Wells fargo active cash Boa unlimited cash rewards visa American card express blue cash everyday Wells fargo reflect Im not on debt i pay my cards on full days before the statement due date.

Can more people share their experience getting a loan from Navy. So much info about credit but not much about about loan
I’ve been pre approved by other banks but I do all my banking now with navy. Problem is my Transunion Fico 9 is 655 the lowest out of all my scores. My Experian is 690 and Equifax is 720

I applied for an apartment with my boyfriend that we really want on Wednesday and I am now getting increased anxiety going into the weekend without an approval. The complex is open on Saturday & Sunday, but I’m not sure if they would send out decisions on a day that’s not technically a business day. I’ve seen online most people hear back within 48 hours and that’s been my previous experience. It’s a new complex, lots of open units, I was the only tour on the day I went to see it. We make well over 3x the rent (I make 4.5x the rent on my own), we both have stable job histories with over a year at our current jobs, and I have 4 years of rental history with my current complex with no late payments, evictions, or complaints. No criminal history, only charges we’ve ever had are minor traffic violations. I’m mainly concerned because my credit isn’t the greatest and my boyfriend has no rental history as he’s stayed with family and paid rent off the books. They pull Transunion where I have a 635 and my bf has a 678, I have collections from the start of the pandemic and he has a perfect credit history, just not big variety of accounts. I’ve been actively rebuilding my credit to get my score to where it is today, but I know no one likes to see collections accounts. I did address my credit history with them prior to applying and they seemed willing to work with me. I’m just extremely anxious because the place is perfect for us and it’d be super upsetting to be denied.

I've been applying to Canadian Tire credit card and keep getting declined for no apparent reason. Good income, good credit score, no late payments. The first time they gave me a congratulations, you're approved email, then made me run around to get my ID verified, then more security questions over the phone, and then just nothing - no communication whatsoever. Turned out it was declined.
Over the years my partner and I have applied and re-applied (not immediately of course), with the same results. Every time they don't inform they declined (just ghost us), then when we call they are unable to tell us the reason. They're currently doing a May signups promotion, so I just applied and got declined (ghosted) again and the phone rep just told me that I should call Transunion/Equifax and ask them, because CT themselves are unable to tell me why.
I'm like why would *they* know? But I just called Transunion and downloaded my consumer disclosure report. No inaccuracies...
I have other CCs, no issues - Scotiabank, Tangerine, Amex, and TD.
So Canadian Tire just hates us I guess?? Any advice (or commiseration) is appreciated.

Current cards: (list cards, limits, opening date)

Navy Federal More Rewards, 1500 limit, 5/30/2023 Discover IT, 2500 limit, 5/30/2023
Multiple authorized user accounts

Credit Scores: >Experian 738, Equifax 765, Transunion 747 Oldest account age: >Experian says 27.5 years, but that is an authorized user card, not sure if it really counts, in terms of cards only in my name it would be 12 months

Chase 5/24 status: 2/24 Income: e.g. $38,000 (Student) Average monthly spend and categories: dining $300 groceries: $100 gas: $100 travel: $0 other: $200

Open to Business Cards: e.g. No

What's the purpose of your next card? I would like to start getting into travel cards that have benefits to them. I am graduating from university next year and will be traveling more with a full-time job. I was ideally looking at the Venture X as my goal card since I would be traveling 1-2 times a year starting out so I could easily use the 300$ and with the 10k points a year that would cover the annual fee. Plus, I've found that I really value the priority pass lounge access. I do not have the income or history yet to get the Venture X of course, but I was curious if it would be good to start with another cap 1 card to build a history with them.
Although the 2 other options for cards are, one of the Kroger cards as I use mobile pay for a majority of my purchases, the 5% on the first 3k of purchases would go a decent way as my yearly spend is around 8500 currently.
The other option would be the BILT card as I will be paying $1500+/month in rent starting in about a year, but since that is still a year now I figured a different card would be more worth it. Are you OK with category spending or do you want a general spending card? Open to both

Very new to credit cards. I have a few doubts I’d like to clear.
I have a Discover IT Student card with 1000 credit limit. It was 500 initially but asked for an increase in 7th month. I’m at 8th month. My first score was 671 in the 6th month. Didn’t know about payments and stuff much but payment history is still a 100%. When I got the score I freaked out and started researching about payments and I kept my usage around 10% before the next statement report and my score grew to 730. Now, this month(8th month) I did the same. Kept my usage at around 10%, but this time I only grew 3 points(733). Is it normal from nowon to grow less points?
Also, are FICO and Transunion scores different. The discover’s FICO score shows me at 753 but the Transunion report’s only 733.
To make it clear, this is my first and only card and now I want to apply Freedom unlimited. Got rejected yesterday though. Any tips on that? I plan on opening their checking account now and applying for it again.

I just snagged a 2024 Wilderness w/o the option package so no moon roof or nav, it did optional equipment like the auto dimming mirrors, led upgrade, cargo sidewall protectors that ticked up the msrp to $42k
I managed to get an out the door price of $37,800 including windshield protection (I don’t live in a state with $0 deductible windshield coverage) from a dealer that wouldn’t budge from msrp or take any promotions on a 2023 as well as got the 2.9% interest for 72 months with no downpayment. My credit score is good but not amazing and they use transunion which is my lowest score of 702, I imagine as long as your income checks out and you have a 700 or above you have a good shot idk
I figured with a rate that low these days I can just keep the extra money I was going to put down in savings as hard as it is to get those rates.
I imagine if I had my own financing or wasn’t going for the promotional 2.9% I may have been out the door for a little less but that seemed like a great all in price to me as that’s all in with 3% state tax, $799 doc fees etc

My credit score is not great BUT I've been building it up from being rock bottom for a little while now. I don't know what my score truly is because of the huge difference noted below. Anyways.. Bills are all paid and credit card is in good standing but I took a huge hit a 5 years ago from a bad debt and have been working really hard to keep everything in the green since and I have. Borrowell front page shows no missed payments, 7% credit utilization, no derogatory marks, no new accounts and no change to credit age (10yrs). I've seen people say their credit score dropped by as much as 100 points within months of paying off their vehicle. If this happens to me, I think it will really wipe out a huge chunk of work I've been putting in to improve my score. I'm alone with my son and no family near me or any with money to ever give me. I'm really trying to make sure I'm ready for anything. I'm a renter so if I have to leave at any point I need a half-decent score to keep a roof over my son's head. Income if it matters is 65k. I do some beauty services on the side for a few friends pretty regularly so I've always got some literal pocket money because they give me cash. I might be rambling here now but I have no idea what information is most useful so just trying to include it all.
All I have outside of the car payment that ends next week is a hydro bill, cellphone bill, cable bill and a credit card with 1500$ spent out of the 22k available. I don't think my score is high enough to qualify for financing anything and my car is a Honda accord with a shit ton of life left. I would like to make the most of this and drive it for a while more. I'll be putting the 'would-be' payments into a TFSA moving forward since I'm used to this amount being deducted anyways. If it matters the payments were $175 bi-weekly and it was a 6 year finance deal.
I've done some googling but no real-life suggestions that match my situation seem to be coming up so I'm hoping the good people of PFC might have some tips for me. Also, if it matters, I'm a single mom so single income. I don't think anyone will qualify me for any loans of any kind. Even if I'm wrong, what the heck would I get a loan for? Uhg, I hate credit scores.
BMO TransUnion score - 552
Borrowell Equifax score - 651
I'm at work so my responses might be a bit delayed.
Edit: Thanks for the positive feedback + info. I'm not so worried anymore, and yes I was overthinking this a bit but god forbid I try to think ahead.. And for the record, I come from a shit past that includes homelessness. I've spent a long time trying to do everything right. I've also been evicted in the past because the Landlord wanted to move back into the unit I was renting so I'm overly aware that this could happen at anytime...again. My paranoia about the credit score is really only related to my ability to get a roof over my son's head at any given time. I'm not a finance guru, it's clear I'm not very aware of what my credit score is really good for. But I do know that when it comes to finding a place, they ALWAYS want it. The landlord I have now didn't pay any mind to it luckily because I have a really good record of paying rent and bills on time. I'll focus on saving and try to worry less about my credit score moving forward. Thanks for enlightening me PFC.

Need help choosing a credit card
I’m “new” to credit cards. I have been using my bank one forever and just want something new. I was always using my debit card until recently and use my credit card for majority of things now. I travel twice a year but don’t have any hotel or flight companies I stay with. I don’t mind paying by a lower annual fee if it can give me more benefits.
I’m also about to make a $2500 new couch purchase and can pay it off right away but would like to get a card that can maximize the points from it

• Current cards: (list cards, limits, opening date)
  • Visa Bank credit card with 8000 limit
• FICO Score: *Experian and Transunion 800
• Oldest account age: 16 years
• Income: around 65k. I work on commission so it varies.
• Average monthly spend and categories:
  • *dining $300
  • *groceries: $250
  • *gas: $200
  • *subscriptions: $120
  • *Other: $500
    • *TOTAL allowed to be put on credit card monthly: $1500
• Are you OK with category spending or do you want a general spending card? Either is fine
• Open to Business Cards: No
• What's the purpose of your next card? Rewards/money back/points
• Do you have any cards you've been looking at? Chase Flex

Possible ba na Good ang rating ko sa CIBI pero Bad record sa Transunion ?
for context, meron kasi akong defaulted credit card way back 2013 at na fully paid ko lang 2018 na, although may certificate of fullpayment naman ako.
now nag request ako ng credit report sa CIBI through Lista app and it says na Good yung rating ko 720+ yung scorem at di ko nakita sa report yung defaulted credit card ko in the past only mga recent Bank personal/housing Loan. possible kaya mag reflect yun if mag request ako sa Transunion ? or since na paid ko naman na yun talagang wala na sya sa record ko?

Credit to Hockey Reference for helping me get the numbers for this exploration/catharsis.
Here's three metrics I'll use to break things down:
Points percentage (P%): Since 2019-20, the Bruins have gone 240-88-44, for a points percentage of .704 (0r 70.4). That's a 115.5-point pace over 82 games, which would've been enough to win the President's Trophy this season. It's the highest points percentage in the NHL over the span, with the closest being Colorado (68.4) and Carolina (67.7). Even impressive teams who have made multiple deep playoff runs and/or won President's Trophies, like Florida (64.8), Tampa Bay (63.6) and the Rangers (63.2) are well behind, as it's hard to maintain elite performance for five seasons like the Bruins have (only the Avs have also gotten 65% or more all five seasons).
Points above average (PAA): Hockey Reference gives you a league average point total as a round number every year, making it relatively simple to look at what your own point total compares to it. For example, the average in '23-24 was 90 points, so the Bruins were 19 above average at 109. Over these five seasons, the Bruins have accrued 112 PAA, which naturally also leads the league over that span. PAA will make for fairer comparisons with previous eras, where points weren't as easy to come by as they are under the post-lockout rules. On the other hand, this will undersell the Bruins a bit, as two COVID-shortened seasons took away opportunities to run up the score. This’ll be the metric I lean on the most
SRS: If you take a simple average of SRS (goal differential per game adjusted for schedule) over the five seasons, the Bruins come out to 0.74. That's second in the league this time, with Colorado narrowly edging them out. Like P%, this metric will also be era-sensitive in that the friendlier the scoring environment is, the easier it is to rack up high goal differentials.

The Competition

I wasn't able to find any other five-year stretch without a final 4 appearance which comes even close to the present Bruins’. Here are the closest:
Toronto Maple Leafs, 2020-2024 (65.3 P%, 62 PAA, 0.53 SRS): A direct comparison you might have been looking for. Of course, these guys have had an eight-year stretch without a conference final, but that only gets them to 99 PAA.
Washington Capitals, 2008-2012 (63.7 P%, 64 PAA, 0.25 SRS); 2013-2017 (64.6 P%, 66 PAA, 0.47 SRS): The Ovechkin era is unique in that they had two solid five-year stretches of this kind in a row, and added up they surpass the Bruins’ PAA.
Dallas Stars, 2001-2006 (62.9 P%, 79 PAA, 0.51 SRS): After Dallas made two straight Finals, they had some disappointing playoffs which made us forget about how good they still were. Playoff highlights include the 1-seed Stars lost to the 7-seed Ducks in ‘03, and the ‘07 Stars (the year after) losing a historically great goalie duel against the Canucks. Including ‘07 gets them to 95 PAA.
Washington Capitals, 1983-1987 (61.1 P%, 89 PAA, 0.55 SRS): Three straight seasons with 100 points, back when 100 points was quite meaningful. They ran into the Islanders four times and lost two winner-take-all games to them, including the infamous Easter Epic. In ‘86, the best season standings-wise, they lost to the underdog Rangers. Going through ‘89 would get these Caps up to 106 PAA.
Buffalo Sabres, 1981-1985 (59.3 P%, 74 PAA, 0.68 SRS): Being stuck in the Adams Division with Montreal and Boston didn’t help, though three of these years they lost to someone else (Minnesota, Quebec).

Grandfathered Competition

That’s the best I could find if we’re going by the strict rules (no CFs allowed), but what if we bended the rules a bit?
Carolina Hurricanes, 2020-2024 (67.7 P%, 89 PAA, 0.67 SRS): If we add the caveat that a team actually has to win a conference-final game to be excluded from the club, the Hurricanes get their foot in the door. So would the 2006-10 Sharks (88 PAA).
Buffalo Sabres, 1976-1980 (64.0 P%, 112 PAA, 0.94 SRS): These guys did make a final 4, but in an NHL with 21 teams where four of them were first-year expansion clubs. If you don’t count that, then this Buffalo team becomes a serious contender for the best team of this kind of category, especially if you include the early ‘80s years we already talked about.
New York Islanders, 1975-1979 (65.3 P%, 122 PAA, 1.23 SRS): In a smaller league, the pre-dynasty Islanders were in a Bruins-like role of losing in the playoffs after putting up impressive regular seasons (losing in four semifinals and one quarterfinals).
Chicago Black Hawks, 1970-1974 (65.9 P%, 123 PAA, 1.04 SRS): These Hawks made it to two Finals… in a 13/16 team league with rapid expansion happening. Again, you might think that’s enough of a comparison to modern teams who can’t make a conference final. The Rangers in this same time frame had 118 PAA and made one Finals, which is a similar story.

Other Comparisons

But, all we've done so far is compare the '20-'24 Bruins to other teams who failed in the playoffs. That limits the scope. What about some other teams? Can these Bruins' regular-season success compete with perennial contenders, even multiple-time champions we may remember?
Tampa Bay Lightning, 2018-2022 (69.6 P%, 104 PAA, 0.75 SRS): Two Cups, a then-record threatening season and two other solid ones, but still behind the Bruins in points and basically even in SRS.
Chicago Blackhawks, 2010-2015 (65.1 P%, 83 PAA, 0.58 SRS): Even if we cheat and give the dynasty Hawks six seasons, the six seasons they managed to win three Cups in, they still fall way short of the Bruins in PAA.
Colorado Avalanche, 1997-2001 (62.7 P%, 96 PAA, 0.57 SRS): The legendary years of Colorado with Patrick Roy can't make a five-year stretch with triple-digit PAA.
New Jersey Devils, 1997-2001 (64.6 P%, 112 PAA, 0.68 SRS): The Devils won three Cups in less than a decade, but the best you can do when selecting a five-year stretch is get one which ties the Bruins in PAA, and is behind them in SRS.
Detroit Red Wings, 1996-2000 (64.5 P%, 115 PAA, 0.86 SRS): In this stretch, the Red Wings won two Cups, and had a '95-96 season which surpasses the '23 Bruins in both PAA and SRS. Still, only three more PAA in total. To be fair, the Wings do pull more comfortably ahead in other stretches (like '01 to '05 with 133 PAA, though "only" 0.81 SRS).
New York Islanders, 1980-1984 (64.9 P%, 119 PAA, 1.00 SRS): Yes, the freaking dynasty Islanders, who made all five Finals and won four of them, had only seven more PAA than the Bruins. It’s strange how their playoff results were so different from the last five years, even though the regular-season numbers were actually slightly worse.
With all of that said, I don't want to give the impression that there aren't five-year stretches that comfortably beat the Bruins', because there are. The dynasty Oilers definitely do, as do the '70s Habs, Flyers, and Bruins (back when expansion doormats ruled the earth).

So over the course of a month using MYFICO, my FICO 8 for Transunion went up 35 points, up to 780. All of the scores in MYFICO went up besides the mortgage scores.
All of my mortgage scores decreased. Transunion went from 750ish to 730ish, which makes zero sense. While the Fico8 went up 35, mortgage decreased by 20. Experian and equifax mortgage scores also went down despite all the other scores increasing.
I know the scores are different, I just can’t understand for the life of me why they would decrease with every other type of score in myfico went up.
Thank you everyone, stressed getting ready for this mortgage.

So, I originally wasn’t looking to finance a new vehicle until later in the summer after I was settled into my recent promotion. The pay from the promotion doesn’t kick in until the end of June which I thought would be a good timeframe to build up some up-to-date paystubs.
However, I was playing on a dealership website using the monthly cost tool. It lead to the online sales manager reaching out and us talking a little bit.
I’ve been looking at a black 2024 Subaru Outback Premium. The 2025s are on the way so I’m uncertain if the 2024s will still be available when I’m (ideally) ready to purchase in August or so. The sales manager also agreed, but I couldn’t tell if that was him just looking to make a sale sooner. I was originally looking at a Crosstrek, but the 2.9% APR @ 72 months they’re pushing with the Outbacks is just speaking to me. I feel like the Outback would be better for my outdoors and dog-centric lifestyle.
Problem is, I don’t have the down payment I planned on having in a few months nor the paystubs to reflect my new income. With the promotion, my income will be going from $2300/month (dropped my hours this semester as I’m a full-time student) to about $4000-$5000 as my new role will require a minimum 10 hours of overtime each week. I only have about $1k for a down payment at the moment, had planned on $5-6k later in the summer.
I’ve played with auto loan estimators from Chase and Capital One and with my current income, they estimate a loan offer of $17-$22k. With my new income, it’s about $50k. Subaru uses Chase and that was the one offering $17k.
My credit score sits at about 724 with the Transunion tool at the moment. I’ve had one car loan before, 8 years ago @ 375/mo. Never missed a payment there or anywhere else in my credit profile. I have a unique living situation where I don’t pay rent or have a mortgage. I do have some debt but the minimum payment is only $80 and the balance takes up about 20% of my usage.
The sales manager said he would like to make me a deal that takes my $1k down payment and gets me in my ideal mid-$400s range for a monthly payment. I was transparent about that number because no matter how I spin it, I figure that range is where I am going to be no matter what vehicle or APR I go with. I’ve been playing with the numbers for a little while.
I know him making me a deal would involve hacking off a hefty chunk from the current MSRP of the vehicle (it was $31k when I inquired, now it’s about 33k - that’s with dealer discounts still). I am just worried that the bank won’t approve the full loan difference with my small down payment, even if I hypothetically got the 2.9% APR, based on my experiences with the auto loan estimators.
If he comes back with a “deal” tomorrow, do you think it’s a bad idea to apply? Have you ever experienced individuals or yourself getting approved for highefull loan amounts when the estimator originally had a much lower amount? My gut is telling me not to but I’m also afraid I won’t catch a good deal later on and get stuck with a higher priced vehicle at a 7-10%+ APR if I don’t take the chance. That hard pull will really do a number on my credit, though.
Sorry for the lengthy post but I feel like my reason is totally clouded right now, I would love some outside insight.

CREDIT PROFILE
Current credit cards you are the primary account holder of:
· Amex Business Gold, opened 10/2023 · Amex Gold, opened 05/2023 · Capital One Venture X $10,000 Limit, opened 04/2023 · Amex BCE $18,000 limit, opened 12/2022 · Amex Platinum (authorized user) since 09/2018

• FICO 8 Scores: Experian 778, Transunion 775, Equifax 771
  
• Oldest credit card account age with you as primary name on the account: 1 year 5 months
  
• Number of personal credit cards approved for in the past 6 months: 0
  
• Number of personal credit cards approved for in the past 12 months: 0
  
• Number of personal credit cards approved for in the past 24 months: 3
  
• Annual income: $58,000
  

CATEGORIES

• OK with category-specific cards?: Yes
  
• OK with rotating category cards?: Yes
  
• Estimate average monthly spend in the categories below.
  
• Dining: $250
  
• Groceries: $250 + Target $50 + Costco $75
  
• Gas: $0 - no car
  
• Travel:
  

· Flights: $500-$750 per year • Hotels: $1,250 per year · Lyft/Uber: maybe $80 month

• Do you plan on using this card abroad for a significant length of time (study abroad, digital nomad, expat, extended travel)?: No
  
• Any other categories (examples: phone/internet, insurance) or stores (example: Amazon) with significant, regular credit card spend (the more you specify, the better): Electric Bill, Amazon, Misc Golf purchases
  
• Any other significant, regular credit card spend you didn't include above?: No
  
• Can you pay rent by credit card? Yes, rent is $1,280. Credit card fee 2.99% (No Amex). $0 if using ACH.
  

MEMBERSHIPS & SUBSCRIPTIONS

• Current member of Costco or Sam's Club? Costco
  
• Currently paying $13.99/month or more for Disney Bundle (Disney+ / Hulu / EPSN+) or other Hulu services? Yes
  
• Current member of Chase, US Bank or any other big bank?: Citi, US Bank
  
• Active US military?: No
  
• Are you open to Business Cards?: Yes, but not right now
  

PURPOSE

• What's the purpose of your next card (choose ONE)?: SUB
  
• Do you have any cards you've been looking at? Applied for US Bank Altitude Reserve last week but was denied even after manual recon. Gave it a shot even though my profile is not exactly thick enough for that card.
  

I’m looking for a SUB that I can cash out at 1 cpp. I don’t plan on traveling a lot over the next 12 months and still have a bunch of AMEX and C1 points to cover travel if needed. I would get a Chase Ink for the high SUB but want to get a personal card for now. I’m tempted to get a CSP but I have received 80k mail offers a few months back so I may hold out until I get one of those again. I’ve also looked at the Bilt card but feel like paying rent with cards to get multiple SUBs is a better use of my spend.

Hello. We had a late payment marked for the month of May on our experian. Our account is due on May 11th and has been paid so even if it was not paid it would not be considered late until June 11th. It was marked late for May on May 18th. I called on the 21st about a totally unrelated thing , no one mentioned anything ? On equifax and transunion when you run the report it has the new updated score but when you go into the payments it says everything is up to date with a 0/0/0 on both reports with no data for May. Experian has an x under May and green checks across the board for everything else. But it does not say 30/0/0 it also says 0/0/0. Wtf is going on?? I called the bank and said they would have a higher up call me after 4 different rounds on the phone and still haven't gotten a call 4 days later. She said that the system does it automatically and she can't tell me anymore and that's something the manager does 🙄 know I need to dispute , is there anything i can cite or letter to use? Do I need to only dispute with equfax or all 3?

CREDIT PROFILE

• Chase freedom unlimited (12k limit, opened Feb 2020 as Chase Freedom Student. Converted in mid 2021)
• Apple Card (6k limit, opened December 2021)
• Citi Custom Cash (22k limit, opened July 2023)
• * FICO Scores with source (see note on FICO score sources below):
  • Experian 790
  • Transunion 9 785
  • Equifax 795 (not up to date)
• * Oldest credit card account age with you as primary name on the account: Student loan from 2018 but that's paid off, so oldest active thing is Freedom unlimited
• * Number of personal credit cards approved for in the past 6 months: 0
• * Number of personal credit cards approved for in the past 12 months: 1
• * Number of personal credit cards approved for in the past 24 months: 1
• * Annual income $: 120k

CATEGORIES

• * OK with category-specific cards?: YES
• * OK with rotating category cards?: YES
• * Estimate average monthly spend in the categories below. Only include what you can pay by credit card.
  • * Dining $: 100
  • * Groceries $: 100 - Yes, it's low. Weird circumstance. Just roll with it.
  • * Gas $: 250
  • * Travel $: Rarely travel. Not considering it for cards at this point.
  • * Do you plan on using this card abroad for a significant length of time (study abroad, digital nomad, expat, extended travel)?: No FTF preferred
  • * Any other categories (examples: phone/internet, insurance) or stores (example: Amazon) with significant, regular credit card spend (the more you specify, the better): $ Most spending I want to improve my rewards with is random stuff. Random purchase at Nordstrom or Target, random grocery spend.
  • * Any other significant, regular credit card spend you didn't include above?: $ 100 per month on pets. Usually online purchases. 50ish per month on alcohol. in person purchases, usually tap for 2% with Apple Pay.
  • I usually spend $1500 on credit cards per month.

MEMBERSHIPS & SUBSCRIPTIONS (delete lines that don't apply)

• * Current member of Amazon Prime?: YES
• * Current Verizon postpaid customer?: YES
• * Current member of Costco or Sam's Club?: YES
• * Current member of Chase, US Bank or any other big bank?: YES (Chase)

PURPOSE

• * What's the purpose of your next card (choose ONE)?: (first credit card, balance transfer, saving money, travel rewards)
  • Primary reason I want a new card is this situation: recently had to spend 5k on a card over the phone on a fairly random purchase and the best I could do was 1.5% on my Freedom Unlimited. I know I can do better than 1.5% on every purchase. I don't really care what kind of rewards I'd be getting as long as it's an improvement.
  • * If you answered "travel rewards", do you have a preferred airline and/or hotel chain?: International flights are usually star alliance or Hainan airlines. Very rarely. traveling these days. No preferred hotel chain
• * Do you have any cards you've been looking at?: Amex BCE. Chase AF cards if they can be justified, but I don't see the rationale yet. Fidelity 2% with the $150 SUB. I basically just want a new card and can't decide :/
• Most of my cash back I just dump into a HYSA and let it ferment. Or wait for a good gift card sale to pop up.